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I have a set of manual hubs (2nd hand) and faulty auto hubs on the fourtrak at present, is it as simple as unbolting the auto ones and bolting on the manual hubs????
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manual and auto hubs
im also in the same situation,, faulty auto lockers, and a set of manual hubs,, and i want to change them over, is there any easy way to do this?
Unrealiable auto hubs
Hi all.
I also have auto hubs that are unreliable,sometimes they work other times I look a prat !!!!.(not good for image,self or trucks ) and are considering fitting manuals. So all tips and hints would be gratfully recieved here also.
Question:- can manual hubs be left in the locked position permantly, re- damage ,excessive wear to front diffs ,propshaft,tranfer box ,ect, as when I want 4wd I would just like to shift the stick into 4Low or hit the button (4Hi).Do not believe this would make a great deal of difference to fuel consumption, in real terms.
With my partner being a Tetra(arms and legs do not function)(broken neck, C4-5)) we rely on the 4wd to work on demand, Claire enjoys a bit of gentle offroad travel,and recently had trouble crossing a ford in Devon,as the front wheels had not engaged (I had been in Low 4 for sometime,just letting the girl trundle her way along) I had difficulty in making the front wheels mount the rock lip to exit the stream bed, with the rears digging in. When we got home a check revealed no drive to front wheels again, but front prop and one front half shaft turning, so again a hub had failed to lock !!!. (power go'es to the half shaft/wheel with the least resistance ,correct)This was after a another clean,grease (silocon type not ordinary grease, I was told ordinary grease to thick)) and rebuild,they do seem not seem to be reliable as they get older and worn!!!.
'92 Fourtrak 2.8TDX (leaf sprung)
(she's female and called Chunky!!,co's she looks like a chunk of of chocalote,that's not for girl's so the adverts on tv used to say, work that out!!!!!!)
Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX
auto hub probs
yeah that sounds like the exact problem im having.. i was up on exmoor other day, and it wasnt untill i was in a particularly sticky patch that i realised the front wheels were not driving.. oh the fun hey..
it looks easy enough to change the hubs over to manuals..
i think u can leave the hubs in 'lock' with out any probs, cos all theyre doin is pushing the halfshafts and prop around.. only thing that may suffer is the fuel consumption!! i always unlocked mine tho.. so i not too sure..
can you re-build auto lockers easily?? or is it more worth wile getting new ones do u know?
Replacment of auto hubs with manuals
Hi all.
This post refers to a '92, 2.8 TDX Fourtrak (Leaf Sprung), five stud fixing hub.
I purchased a manual hub kit from 'Milners', it was with me next day , good service, and correct.
The kit was two hub assemblies,(AVM made in Brazil), plus a snap ring , two 52mm nuts and a locking tab/washer /spacer, for each hub. The fitting instructions included with the hub assemblies, quite plain and straight forward, but I thought 'Milners' should have included an explanation as to what the other parts , (the two 52mm nuts and the locking/tab washer,plus a snap ring per hub) were for, and how to use them. I recognized them straight away, front wheel bearing adjuster /retainer parts.
I replaced the snap ring for a cirlip(much easier to fit and remove).( as advised by a post on this site, thanks to you, RFman, I think??)
I jacked the truck up, then proceeded to the removal of the auto hubs,this was was straight forward, the clutch/brake component remaining in the wheel hub was difficult to remove,but with patience it came out, then allowing access to the small screws which held the wheel bearing adjuster nut. I replaced this with the new 52mm nuts and locking washer/tab, adjusting the free play out of the wheel bearing and packing them with grease.
Then I offered up the new AVM hub assembly, snag !!!!!, the wheel hub had two locating pins protruding from it, even though the AVM hub had recceses cast into it , the new hub assembly would not mate ,even with the gasket supplied,so I packed the wheel hub and bearing with rags and got out the angle grinder and reduced the length of theses pins/dowels, so the new assembly would mate without rocking on these pins. Placed the gasket on and tapped on the gasket supplied to cut new holes to accommodate these pins.
Copper coated the original set screws and fixed the assembly in place, Using a tourqe wrench at 30ft/lbs. The small set screws(specials) used to fix the cover in place ,very delicate, copper coated and just tightened up ,minimal force required to lock these in place. ( I use this anti seize compound every time I remove and replace a bolt/screw)
Both sides done, so I placed the truck on four axle stands and fired 'Chunky' up, engaged 4L, all wheels rotated, tried 4Hi, (Dash switch) all wheels rotated. No slack in the front wheel bearings. Jobs Done !!!!. Now have more confidence in the girl.
Many thanks to all who have posted information on this site in the past and recently, with reference to front hubs.
Edward (ews)
Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX
lets get muddy leaving the
lets get muddy
leaving the hubs in lock position will harm your fuel consumption and will wear the front tyres down quicker the auto hubs are a pain in the a***
lets get muddy
auto to manual hubs
is it just a case of swapping autos to manuals, or is it not as simple as that?
I'm not certain but as far
I'm not certain but as far as I know these aren't interchangeable, but to get the hub off and try it they do simply un bolt
Replacing auto hubs with manual ones is easy.
I came across the instructions for the manual hubs I fitted to my 'trak.
Here's the copy from the leaflet for the AVM hubs sold by Milners.
------------------------------------------------------------
Front wheels.
Remove bolts fixing the auto hub drive flange, taking off snap ring or nut (if any) from axle shaft.
With control dial in 4x2 position, loosen screws and separate the two sub-assemblies. BTW, the screws are specials, so don't lose them.
Instal new hub body with its gasket using the original flange bolts and lock-washers. Tighten according to vehicle manufacturer's specifications. Replace snap ring or nut on axle (if one was removed in the first place).
Re-instal cover assembly with its gasket. Tighten cover screws to 2 to 3 ft lb.
----------------------------------------------------------
That's it .... DONE.
It takes only about 20 minutes per side and you don't even have to remove the front wheels. Daihatsu use some mighty strong sticky stuff to seal the joint between the auto hubs and the wheel hub, so you might have to give the old hubs a gentle loving tap with a 3 pound lump hammer to break the joint.
Only one thing about manual hubs is to remember to put them into 4x4 before you need 'em. I was doing a 3 point turn on a narrow lane in the Derbyshire peaks a while back, when I found the rear wheels sinking ominously into an unseen ditch full of long grass. Leap heavily on brakes to save the day, but now I'm stuck in the vehicle with my foot on the brake and can't get out to put the front hubs into 4wd.
Thankfully g/f has reasonable mechanical nous, jumps out and does the job for me, and doesn't complain too much about mucky fingers afterwards.
auto to manual
Just done the hubs
I purchased the kit from Milners and it was very simple once I had worked out you need to remove the old auto hubs and then an additional part/ring held on with 3 little star screws. Its then simply a case of putting a collar and nut on to replace this ring thing and then bolt on the manual hubs.
Nice and muddy down here in East Anglia at the moment so I have had the chance to test them out over the past couple of days and FANTASTIC I have 4X4 when i need it.
Thanks for all the replys and help
Automatic to manual.
Hi I am having the same problem with the hubs and want to no if you can fit second hand locking hubs to replace the auto one.
cheers dave
swapping hubs
Hello
i have swapped my autofreewheel hubs for manuals off a donor sportrak,provided they have the same amount of bolt holes its simply a case of removing the complete auto hub inc hub brake assembly,add a tab washer and nut to the exsisting bearing nut behind hub brake assembly,then bolt both hub bodys together,flange against flange and drill out the locating holes on the manual hub body using the auto hub body as a guide,then fit the manual hub body and add a c clip to end of driveshaft.Mine work a treat and a cheaper option,hope this helps