Diesel fuel line corroded

Forum: 

I own a Fourtrak 2.8 TDX SE and the diesel line is corroded and leaking. If I cut out the corroded bit, is there a rubber or plastic substitute that I can use?

Fuel Pipe

Replace the whole section with copper pipe and replace all the flexible pipes at the same time.

Copper pipe is available cheaply from plumbing suppliers, this is microbore pipe and the olives are available for it, run the pipe out and ensure no contact with the steel components. If necessary buy new plastic snap in clips from the plumbing suppliers, screw these to the chassis by drilling and tapping new holes. Solder an olive to each end and push the flexible pipe over and clip with a fuel pipe clip, this will ensure a good seal and give the clip something to bite against to prevent the flexible pipe being pulled off.

Flexible fuel pipe is available from motor factors, and the replacement copper pipe will last the life of the vehicle.

If you use copper its going

If you use copper its going to have to be a professional job. An easy option is to replace it with plastic pipe. All new vehicles use plastic pipe now. As long as it doesn't rub through on something it will also last the life of the truck.

Professionals

Do not understand your comment about copper pipe having to be a professional job, it is a simple replacement of the previous steel pipes.

Plastic pipes are ok for most vehicles, that is those not subject to off road use, in fact many manufacturers now fit copper in place of steel or plastic in many markets as an option. This gives better durability particularly in hostile climates such as off roading, or where vehicles have a lot of body movement such as 4X4's

Taps and copper soldering

Taps and copper soldering equipment isn't what most people have in there tool boxes. You have to have a certain amount of skill to solider successfully. I assume the vehicle is for road use.

The soldering is easy and is

The soldering is easy and is to solder an olive to each end of the copper pipe, it does not have to be perfect as the rubber flexibles pass over it and are clipped behind it. It could equally be flared with a standard flare, just something to pass the pipe over and prevent it being pulled off as easily as it would with a straight pipe.

the plastic diesel piping on

the plastic diesel piping on new vehicles can be a real pain. you only need a tiny airleak to cause allsorts of problems.
the wife has a renault megane that starts fine untill we get a frost then it needs a lot of cranking to bleed the air out the system, (the whole cold start system has been checked and is working) somewhere theres an air leak that only happens when something shrinks in the cold.
we had something similar a few years ago with a plastic radiator, in frosty weather it lost water overnight, no frost no water leak.
new cars are designed for ease/cheapness of manufacture not for longevity after the warrenty period is over

The problem you identify is

The problem you identify is a common problem with many vehicles, and is attributable to the push fit, or other cheap connections they use, which have a differing expansion rate.

The solution is to identify the type of connector and if it has a seperate rubber seal, if so replace it with a butyl "O" ring, these are available with different wall thicknesses so the thickest is the best.

Hope it helps Richard.

Plastic pipes are not

Plastic pipes are not reliable considering they don't really resist to vibrations or heat. I think copper is the way to go.
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Denver plumbing