Forum:
OK, when i decided to take a spin around the fieldin my fourtrak at santa pod last weekend 
I noticed when i engaged the front hubs (manual) and switched to 4H that on approx 3/4 lock theres a loud clicking noise, like something is getting stuck and moving then getting stuck again. Ive checked the tyres arnet rubbing and as i said it only does it in 4wd???? The front hubs are well packed with landrover grease, and as this is my first 4x4 i dont know much about it yet! I have the Fourtrak manual but this doesnt help me either 
Can someone make a suggestion on what i should check? Cheers
CLICKING
FRONT CV JOINTS
Mine does it as well,
Check axle has oil in it, they can go on 4ever sounding like this or bite the bullet and replace them.
DESTROYER OF LANDROVERS.
DESTROYER OF LANDROVERS.
ok
sorry to sound like a noob but wheres the axle filling point? ive looked thru the manual a bit but i cant find it?
DOH!!!
on the diff liquid!!!!
NUT
BIG nut on diff casing about 1/2 - 3/4 way up.
its a good idea to drain it completely if it aint been done for a while.
big nut at bottom for draining.
DESTROYER OF LANDROVERS.
clicking
sorry to bring bad news but the clicking is your cv joints when you engage 4wd they start to click on turning , it happened on mine replace with milner off road cv joints...regards guy
lol ok 1 person saying replac
lol ok 1 person saying replace, others saying not need to,
a little update however, the noise doesnt happen when im on the mud! only when i make a short trip across tarmac
Possible explation
Hi Guys - I'll pass this on as a thought after attending a couple of 4WD courses in Oz. Four wheel drives like the SPortrak/ Feroza have part-time 4WD. They have no centre differential which on permanent 4WD's allows variations in speed between the front and rear axles caused by turning / terrain etc. Off road on loose surfaces this is fine as stress in the drivetrain is relieved by the individual wheels slipping on the surface. However on tarmac wheel slippage is limited and a lot of stress can build up in the drive train - commonly referred to as Differential wind-up. Because of this in Oz you are STRONGLY advised not to use 4WD ( or diff locks ) unless you are on a loose surface and to engage 2WD at all other times. The clicking you hear on the dry from your CVs is probably due to this stress whereas on mud the stres is relieved by wheel slippage. If you drive around in 4WD on the roads you will increase tyre wear dramatically and shorten the life of your drivetrain components. Handling will also be 'interesting' especially at speed.As a matter of interest the army have lost / rolled a lot of early landrovers for just this reason.
thank you vey much for this,
thank you vey much for this, Seems like thats the most simple explanation
Ill stop worrying bout it now then and when im not using 4WD for a while ill make sure i run it on some loose stuff to make sure things stay lubed up 
Clicking front hubs
Just bought an elderly Fourtrak with the same sounds. Certainly sounds like knackered CV joints, from my experience of other makes/models - even minis were very prone to the same symptoms too, remember? Can anyone tell me, though,if the CV joints are an integral part of the drive shaft assembly, and thus have to be replaced as a complete assembly, or can they be repaired?
Front CV's can be replaced/ov
Front CV's can be replaced/overhauled.
Remove the inner axle from the housing. Give it a bit of a clean up particularly around the axle shaft and CV bell itself. Now hang the axle vertically, with the outer end of the axle pointing down, either in a vice (gripping somewhere on the shaft that isnt critical), or have a mate hang on to it. Have your mate hang onto the other end of the CV, and keep it straight. Now, get a lump of hard wood, and a large hammer, lay the wood across the inner edge of the CV bell, and give it an almighty whack with the hammer. The outer end of the axle (Short stub axle and CV bell/inner ball cage/CV balls/inner circlip) should pop off. You can then either clean them up in petrol, or replace them with a kit. You will have to do some work to get the balls and cage out of the bell, as they only go in and out one way. One of the ball grooves on the cage has an extra cut out that makes disassembly possible. Be careful you dont lose the inner circlip. This clips into the groove on the very end of the inner half of the axle. Reasembly is basically the reverse proceedure.
Hope this helps
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
Clicking CV joints
Many thanks, mate, I'll have a go.
Interestingly enough, the workshop manual just doesn't go there. Tells you how to extract and inspect the CV joints, not what to do if they're knackered! Helpful!
cv joint
no need to change the whole drive shaft mate , if you buy new cv joints make sure they have they have the same amount of splines as they differ at a certain year , i changed mine by putting the whole shaft in a vice and clumping the old one of the end, there is a cir clip that you cant get to , hit the old cv hard enough with a big hammer and you will break the cir clip.
a new one is supplied with the replacement cv joint ., try milner they stock this item ...regards guy