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Well, at the w/end, after much putting-off and "shall-I or-shant-I?" thinking, I did it. It's done!
First point is that the manual is not quite DIY friendly, and assumes you are doing it in a workshop up on a ramp. You will need assistance, obviously in some aspects. To get any sort of access to remove the box you'll need ramps, and possibly (as I did) slacking off of the engine mounts to facilitate some kind of engine movement, essential when re-installing the 'box.
I also found it essential to remove the entire exhaust system, also you'll need space behind the box, so get rid of the whole rear propshaft. The only bugbear I found during the strip was the removal of the gearsticks (Might have been me, that.) and I had to grind off an exhaust bolt. The transfer unit was fairly light, I thought.
It's crucial to support the box with a something like a large jack when that final bracket is taken off - it quite literally fell away, not needing the usual clouts with a mallett to seperate bellhousing from engine. I did this with a large bottle jack and some timber blocks I shaped for the occasion.
Changing the plate, housing and thrust bearing holds no nasty surprises. I was surprised how much the pressure plate was worn - although the adjuster was not quite at the end of the drag, I'd doubt there'd be any plate left when you turned it to the end of the stop - I reckon this must be to do with heavier drivelines, and those who say 75-80k for a clutch are not far out.
Putting the 'box back was NEARLY as awful as I thought - I was glad I loosened the engine, as i was able to twist it back (again with bottle jack) in order to line it up. Also it was a bit lazy going back onto the input shaft, so had to be pulled in with the securing bolts. I also took the oppotunity to grease those otherwise inaccesible propshaft nipples.
All in all, inc. fag and tea breaks, it took 5 hrs from first driving up the ramp till the test drive. It's hard work I will admit, but the task is straightforward enough, no special tools are needed, I've saved over £350+ at dealer prices, and the beer and fag after were the most satisfying I've had for a long time!
Saved £350? I only paid £275 for a new clutch fi
I had a new clutch fitting to my Sportrak a fortnight ago. Was a genuine Sportrak clutch so has all the warranty's and everything Daihatu have on parts. It took them about 5 hours to put new clutch on, and i think that included them fitting it and then using my Sporty to go for their lunch break.
I paid £275 to have it done which I thought was not bad for a clutch specialists for the clutch and labour, etc. My Sportrak has done just over 80K, and it did start slipping around 76-77K. I did have to travel 15 miles to get it done tho thats the bad thing, as everywhere near me were saying £500-£700 because "its a 4x4 ya know, they aren't that easy to work on and the part will be £300 alone" which I got priced from Gary Langford when I thought someone could do it for me and it was around £90-£100 for a genuine one from Daihatsu through him.
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N-Reg Daihatsu Sportrak Midnight. A-Bar, K&N, 100Watt Spots, Custom S/Steel Wheel Cover, S/Steel Sillbars, more to follow!
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It's interesting the differen
It's interesting the different amounts quoted for this work. I found myself going past the local dealers on wed., and still feeling smug, I popped in and asked....They wanted to relieve me of the thick end of £450, and wanted it overnight(!). For a laugh, I asked about doing it myself and was told "You won't do it, mate - special tools, and it's a 3 man job and all that" BOLLOX!
Today I saw a clutch specialists in Crewe and asked them to quote. They wanted around £280 and "Didn't know" how long it would take.
The local fettler comes up with the best deal so far. £250, providing it's straightforward, and i can copy bit's of the manual for him.
Dave with a Sporty
Dave with a Sporty