Which model ?

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Hi
I have just bought an old Daihatsu 4x4 the log book has no model name on it it was built in 1979. Can anyone tell me the model I have found a name F50 on the body would this be right? It has a complete fiberglass body and is in good condition. I need a service manual any ideas where I can get one. As you can tell I am a complete novice to 4x4s!!!:help.
Many thanks
Wendy

You have bought yourself (pos

You have bought yourself (possibly) the most robust, reliable & unstopable 4x4 ever created. Yes she is an F50. This model (2.5 deisel Short Wheel Base), along with the F20 (1.6 petrol SWB), the F55 (2.5 deisel Long Wheel Base) and the F25 (1.6 petrol LWB) is the four-runner to the F70, 75, 80, 85 Fourtrak. And with a fiberglass body to boot, negating the F50's akileis heell... Horendus Boby Rot!

As for a service manuel... They where rear when the old girl was new. They do very occasionally turn up on e-bay. If you have any specific questions post them, & I'll try to help. Or if it's too complicated to describe in a forum... 07710 088162.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

Wow thats a bit scarry!! just wanted something to tow stuff around my field. The mileage on the clock says 24576 I guess this can not be true although it has spent most of its life at a local estate. It had 2 days left on its MOT and it looked so good that it seemed a bit of a shame to leave it in a field so it is today being re-tested. I paid £250.00 for it and it is a bit slow to start and I would like to give it a good service. Any idea which glow plugs it takes and where I could get them also the battery light stays on all the time?. The engine seems good I drove it to the garage at between 50 and 60 no propblem. I love it already.
Many thanks for the help SmileSmile

Don't worry about the battery

Don't worry about the battery light. It's one of the idiosincricies of the bread. The warning lights like to lie, just to keep you on your toes. To be sur put a multi meter on the battery. It should be around 11.5-12.5 volts with the engine off, going up to about 13.5-14 when the engine is running.
As for glow plugs, the engine is basicly the same as the later models (F70/75) 2.8 engine. The 2.8 is a streched 2.5. it's basicly the same engine. Your local Daihatsu dealer (or a 4x4 specialist from one of the 4x4 mage) should be able to get them for you. I got my last set off of e-bay for £1.50 each. But of course e-bay is a matter of luck.
The 'slow to start' engine could be several things. It's not likely to be a bad battery, as it probably wouldn't start at all. By slow do you mean it turns over slowly, or do you mean it spines over for quite a while befor exploding into life, probably acompanied by a cloud of black smoke?

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

HI
Thanks for the reply
The engine turns over for a long time before fireing and yes then there is a big cloud of black smoke and then it clears.

Could be the heater plugs. I

Could be the heater plugs. It could also be the pre-heat position on the ignition barel having burnt out. Befor the start position on the ignition barrel there is another self returning position. This is the heater plug position. About a 10 count on this position should be enugh to start on the coldest of mornings. A multi meter to the bar across the top of the glow plugs will show if you have a suply from the ignition barrel to the pre-heaters. If you don't you could by-pass the ignition barel with a self returning switch on the dash, and a relay to take the load and prevent future burn outs.
The black smoke is just the deisel that has bilt up in the system while you were cranking away carbonising.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

Thanks once again
That all sounds like I am not starting up properley. I didnt know where the pre ignition position was there is no light or marks on the ignition.:$ F50 has passed her MOT with flying colours not bad for an oldie, I will be getting to know her better now thanks to you.I am so glad I found this site. I need a lesson in 4x4 ownership Scratch one-s head
If there any hand books out there I need one!!
Thanks Nev.K

Don't expect help from the ol

Don't expect help from the old girl, until you learn to know what each noise she makes means. Don't expect warning lights for anything except the most basic, and don't trust the ones that are there. She's old. She'll have crotchety days. She'll strech your patence at times. BUT, once you get to know her, and sooth her worst moods, she'll be the best little 4x4 you could wish for. A little slow, a little bouncey, but garenteed to get you there.

Good luck, and happy 4x4ing.

PS, would you like a list (short though it is) of regular failings (due mainly to age) of the F50, and more importantly some pointeres as to how to prevent them?

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

I love the bouncey slowness it feels good to be intouch with the real suroundings.:) The reading on the speedo is correct!! so F50 and I will have to learn together!!:) The garage where F50 was MOTed said they have never had one in like it. Seems someone went to great lengths In the past to look after her ,I will try with a lot of help from thoses that know how, to do the same. Any list, no matter how short, from you, would be very much appreciated. I will take a photo and you will see she is no beauty with the very ugly fiberglass body,:( but underneath she is rock solid. and no rust!!top or bottom.:-)
Glad to have found you

Plastic body

Hi Wendy. Interested in your plastic body - if you'll scuse me saying so. Blush
Do you know who made it.
My father's got an F50 with body by IJF developments (known as the Saxon Crusader). Only heard of one or two more. Don't think there are many about. Interested to know more.

Saxon Crusador

f50

Hi dont know if anyone is interested but I have to sell my much loved F50 with full fibeglass body. Im going to live abroad and can not take it with me. It has been great to own has mot and almost full years road tax. e-mail me for details. eval(unescape('%64%6f%63%75%6d%65%6e%74%2e%77%72%69%74%65%28%27%3c%61%20%68%72%65%66%3d%22%6d%61%69%6c%74%6f%3a%77%65%6e%64%79%40%6a%65%6e%6b%69%6e%73%37%31%31%31%2e%66%72%65%65%73%65%72%76%65%2e%63%6f%2e%75%6b%22%3e%77%65%6e%64%79%40%6a%65%6e%6b%69%6e%73%37%31%31%31%2e%66%72%65%65%73%65%72%76%65%2e%63%6f%2e%75%6b%3c%2f%61%3e%27%29%3b'))

Wendy For the glowplug posit

Wendy
For the glowplug position on the ignition, try turning the key on, and then just past it, there may be a bit of spring pressure, or another notch, before the starter actually kicks in. This MAY be the glowplug preheat position.

The original part numbers for the glow plugs are
Nippon Denso 19850-56022-000. Thats a Daihatsu part number.
The glow plug indicator appears to be a seperate indicator light, possibly attached in a small bracket, to the bottom of the dash panel.

Cheers
David

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my own experiences. Take such advice at your own risk.

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

I'd forrgotten about the ligh

I'd forrgotten about the light on the dash. Though 'light' is not really the word for it. It's actually a high (or is it low, I can never remember) resistance bar of metal, that gets the same juice as the glow plugs. This has the effect (if it works) that as the glow plugs get hotter, the gril/gauze over the indicater 'light' gets brighter as well.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

Thanks again Nev
I tried out the positions for starting and counting and F50 started up a lot better. As you said just a matter of getting to know her Smile

Wendy Any part numbers you n

Wendy
Any part numbers you need, just give me a buzz. I happen to have in my possession an original Daihatsu F10 through F55 parts catalogue. It lists the original Daihatsu part numbers for all parts for those models. The trouble is, and you will probably find this out, that quite often these numbers are of no real use to anyone but a Daihatsu parts dealer.
When you are scourcing parts for it, you need the model number, as well as other numbers that you can gather, such as engine number, chassis number, and original build date. With luck, some or all of this info is on the compliance plate, which should be somewhere in the engine bay. But also be prepared to be supplied the incorrect part still. Carefully check any new parts against the old ones BEFORE attempting to fit them.

Cheers
David

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my own experiences. Take such advice at your own risk.

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

F50

Thanks Dave
I have already had this problem Sad It seems that even the main dealers get it wrong Scratch one-s head When F50 went in for her last MOT to a Daihatsu garage they put the wrong brake cylinders on to the left side which made her pull badly to the left. Scratch one-s head I will remove a glow plug and take a photo before trying to find the right one but at least now I have part number to start with many thanks Smile If you come across any manuals that would help i would be most grateful and so would F50 Smile

Chances are the glow plug wil

Chances are the glow plug will have brand and number embossed on the body of it anyhow,

Cheers
David

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my own experiences. Take such advice at your own risk.

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

F50

Hi David
Thanks for getting in touch. I have been and had a look but if there was a bracket then it long gone with metal body the F50 is all Fiberglass.:? Thanks for the glow plug part no that will stop me looking a complete idiot when asking for them.:)
Wendy

Congratulations on your buy!

You'll come to accept the micky taking from other 4x4 owners (Postman Pat's van etc) but soon relish the envious looks when you climb muddy banks and bounce through ruts which have left them spinning their wheels. Top advice from Nev.K, I agree with all of it. My own F20 leaves me with a smile that only surgeons could remove!

Oh yes. The Pat Wagon. I ta

Oh yes. The Pat Wagon. I take it you have one of the red van body girls. I'm sure who ever designed that cartoon must have been a Daihatsu enthusiast. However Wendy will at least not have that perticulal gem thrown at her, as her lady has had some surgery of it's own. Plastic implants if you like.
I know what you mean about the smile too. I trial a fairly standard F20 (mods are all safety, still the same basic car underneath), and she is probably the best standard car I know of. She doesn't let me down. She's only ever brocken due to things I have done to her (such as not filling the oil up, oops), and the only cars that get up steeper banks are the V8 brigade (and one very odd little car called the mole (Marvolous On Land Everywhere)).

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

Hi Thanks again for the advice Nev I will check it out asap will keep you posted. I have got the hang of starting her now she starts first turn after a count of 10 just as you said.
Many thanks and so what if F50 looks like post man Pats van (but green) I love her and so does my dad he keeps trying to steal her of me Smile
I love the name the mole Biggrin

Regular problems to nip in th

Regular problems to nip in the bud:

1) Free Wheeling Hubs. Lots of 4x4 work can couse the FWH's to work loose from the main hub. As long as the bolts (12mm at base of FWH, not 10mm on the end of the FWH) that hold the two together are kept tight this is not a problem. If they do work lose, and are not tightened, eventually the bolts will shear off. This is a real pain, as getting the sheared off bolts out is not an easy job.

2) Chassis. Mostly the F50 Chassis is about the strongest you'll find on any 4x4. However it does have one week point (design floor). The front of the rear springs are mounted to the chassis proper by a tubular outrigger. This tube gets covered in muck & wet from the rear wheels. It also has a large twisting load put upon it. Eventually this tube can twist, or shear off. Usually only vigirus offroading couses this problem, but I have had one twist out of line on a 'road' vehicle. This can be prevented by one of two simple (if you can weld) procedures:
a) Drive a thicker walled smaller tube (snug fit) down the inside of the original. Weld the end in. Dril larg holes through the outer tube near (better still on the other side of) the chassis. Fill the holes up with weld (making sure to get it stuck to the inner tube to start with.
b) Weld a suport leg from the chassis proper at a forty five degree angle to the bottom (square part) of the outrigger. A decent bit of angle would do this job well.

3) Rear prop shaft. Only on vehicles with later tube type (not solit pole type) props doing vigourus off roading, and with missing rubber bump stops on the rear axle. Agresive bouncing can couse the rear prop to hit the tubular chassis cross member abouve it. This couses dents, weekening the structure of the prop. Eventually this can lead to the prop buckeling and shearing off. I've only known this happen to a full trials car F50. But he did it 3 times befor we figured out what was doing it.

4) Electronic fuel pump acctuator. These have been known to go mad, and switch the engine off when you don't want them too. Becouse the DG 2.5 engine has a mecanically opperated pump, the acctuator only opperates an arm which pushes the pump selector to the nesesary position for start, run and stop. have a look down the left hand side of the engine (looking from the front of the car) while some one else starts and stops her and you'll see what it does. In a by the side of the road emergency you can pull the conecting bar off. the pump eill then stay in the run, or stop position. If you set it to 'run' by hand it will get you home. Just remember when you turn the ignition off the engine will keep running. You can stall it, or open the bonnet and move the pump position to 'stop'. I know of at least 3 F50's which have had a hand opperated acctuater fitted. Basicly a chock cable, or solid rod run into the dash, alowing you to put the pump into start, run or stop positions from in the cab. This also has the added advantage of allowing you to put the pump into 'start' position (basicly exsses fule) whilst driving. usfull on steep hills whilst towing sometimes.

5) Gearbox. This is the hardest to fix. It's also a problem which you probably won't have, as if it were going to go it probably would have by now. It is a fult that for some reason has never been corrected right up to the last of the fourtrak's. And yes it is the same box all the way through. Some 4trax didn't have the nut on the end of the main shaft tightened properly. After a while it comes lose, or even comes off compleatly. The first sign is not being able to select some gears properly. The gear stick feels like it's in the right position, bnut the gear isn't engaging. There are many posts on this site how to fix this problem, but as I said I suspect you wont need to worry.

And that's about it for regular falts that I can think of. I hope this hasn't put you off. As I said she's still probably the best 4x4 you'll find. Look after her, and she'll do the same for you.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

Thanks for all that info Nev and no it has not put me off Smile I have noticed that on the drivers side the free wheel hub does not line up with arrow when in the free wheel postion if that makes scence Scratch one-s head it seems to drive ok though is this anything to worry about or is this another little quirk. When I turn it to lock the arrows line up.
Thanks again
Wendy

I wouldn't worry too much if

I wouldn't worry too much if it works as it should. If you want to check it out, try this:
1) put her in 4wd and lock both hubs, pull forward (or backward) a few feet, to make sure they have engaged properly (if there going to).
2) jack the wheel with the 'dodgy' FWH off the ground.
3) try turning the lifted wheel. It should rotate a small amount in either direction befor coming up solid.
4) unlock that hub only. The wheel should now turn freely.
5) relock it and the wheel should turn a little way befor the hub locks in, and the rotation will stop.
If when you lift the wheel with everything locked in for 4wd the lifted wheel turns freely you have a problem. Get someone else to rotate the wheel while you look under the car from the drivers side, about in line with the drivers door. You should be able to see the front prop shaft. If this is turning the problem is in the transfure box. If the prop in not turning with the wheel the problem is in the front axle (though this could be diff, half shaft, CV or FWH)

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

F50

Hi Nev
Checked out the freewheeling hubs and all seems fine when tested in the air I will be working F50 this weekend and towing trees out of a wood . I will listening for any noises or grinding Scratch one-s head Tentertive time for us both Sad
Thanks again

New to F20's

Hey, I can see that the last post on this site is rather a while ago, but I thought I may have an attempt at posing a question of my own!

I have recently purchased an F20 1.6l 1979 and am trying to replace the indicator unit but cant seem to work out how to remove the steering column surrond without breaking it, can anyone give me some assistance on how this is to be done?

I thank you for your help in anticipation.

Dirol

F20 Driver in Australia