Forum:
Hi
I have a rough n/a manual YRV and was wondering if I could low pressure turbo it using the exhaust manifold..turbo..and lines from the turbo YRV? I recon I could do this for a lot less than the cost and complication of an engine swap. Has this been done before and does anyone know of anything which would cause major complications. Would I need to be able to retard the timing for low boost? Im hoping for around 20 to 30 extra bhp and around 5 - 7 psi. Any advice welcome.
A lot will need to be done. It won't be cheap.
As an ex-yrv turbo owner for over 8 years I have learnt a lot about these cars. First off the YRV turbo had a low pressure turbo setup. But also had forged pistons to help it cope. The car you have I am guessing is the 1.3 K3-VE engine @ 85Bhp? The YRV Turbo has the K3-VET @ 130Bhp. The Turbo 130 also was matted to a automatic gear box as at the time Daihatsu had no manual gearbox and clutch to cope with the extra power, have heard people using Toyota Yari t-sport manual boxes, but can't confirm if any worked. The Turbo and gear box were cooled by the radiator (has extra piping on the rad for this). Even upping the power with a free flowing exhaust caused over boosting to occur and ended up getting a make shift Fuel Cut Defender as the ECU was programmed to cut fuel past 0.8 bar. By the time you do all of this, it will cost more than an engine swap. Your best bet is to get something like a 1.3 litre K3-VE2 engine, which was fitted to the mark 1 Sirion, and that pushed out 101Bhp without a turbo. Make sure you get the ECU as well. As far as I am aware you'll be the first to try this.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
A lot will need to be done. It wont be cheap
Thanks for the reply it is really appreciated ! What do you see as being the major expense? I recon after the turbo, manifold and an intercooler Id probably just need a rising rate fuel regulator and a boost controller. The current ECU cant detect boost so I dont think it will cut fuel and I would think the standard pistons should take a small amount of boost as long as there is no no detonation. Used bare Turbo engines are going for £6-800 without turbo or manifolds and then they wont fit my gearbox unless its just a case of swapping the flywheels over. Just wanted to see if it could be done cheaply as the car itself is rotting away rapidly :). But yeh if the gearbox is the weakness then maybe it isnt worth bothering. Thanks again
Not saying it can't be done...
All depends if you use the car as a means of getting about. And you rely on it. All I will say is Daihatsu didn't uprate things when they made the YRV turbo for nothing. The turbo on the YRV turbo is a low pressure ihi turbo. A lot of people upped these to a TD04 from a scooby WRX. And got away with it. It's everything else that may let you down, as the K3-VE as far as I am aware haven't got forged Pistons. Worth getting yourself over on the Daihatsu Enthusiasts Facebook page as it may shed some light on the subject
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
It can...well for a few minutes anyway
Yes its my daily driver and I am suposed to be leaving it the hell alone but thats not in my nature and I had a head full of what ifs which you have pretty much answered which is great. I might still try it but a bit more research first as you were right as I dont think it would be cost effective to just try fit a turbo to the existing set up and expect it to be reliable, although I was only thinking half the boost of a YRV turbo as 0.8 bar of boost is nearly 12 psi which is way more than what I would call an actual low presure set up eg. Saab LPT's run at 6-7 psi, Starlets run 6 psi on low and 9.5 on high as standard. I just had to ask the question and now its here to answer others that ask. Will defo take a look on facebook and the Toyota gearbox swap sounds interesting as mine doesnt feel like it would take much to push it too far. Thanks again Jpor.
No worries. YRV turbo has 0.6 bar as standard
the YRV turbo boosts at max on the standard exhaust at 0.6 bar. As soon as you change the exhaust it can over boost. The boost gauge I had fitted showed it can cope upto 0.8 bar before the ecu cut fuel. Once I fitted a FCD it would over boost to 1.1 bar. Problem then was the inter cooler was small also and heated up quickly so got a lot of heat soak.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP