Forum:
Basically there is loads out of them, I'm a little confused on what to get as im an amatuer mechanic.
The prices seem to range from £10 for the 1.3 sport version (lowest) from china
£36 for a 1.3 rally 2 version
Surely these are the same engines? or is there something more complicated about a sensor on a car, to me its just sensing information? As you can pick up universal ones, but they are a bit hard to find for a rare car like this in the UK.
I've just bought it and basically I cleared the code but hasnt returned as of yet, but I've been wellying it around so maybe its a different type of driving that surfaced the problem?
Thanks for any replies.
The rally 2 & 4 are slightly tuned versions of UK cars.
The rally versions of the sirion, are basically slightly tuned and uprated versions of the standard SL and 4Trak cars. Think they were done by camspeed? On behalf of Daihatsu UK. Basically the best that Camspeed could muster was an extra 9-10 BHP from the restricted ECU on the car. As far as I am aware the parts for the engines are still the same. As the engines are all K3-VE2 16 valve versions. I believe BobF who is normally our resident expert on Sirions, would advise just getting both your Lambda/O2 sensors from sparkplugs.co.uk. These seem to fail at around 40K Miles on any model. Good luck.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Lambda sensors
Yep, sparkplugs.co.uk are probably the cheapest ORIGINAL parts (about £110 for the pair), I wouldn't trust cheapo stuff. However, the sensors seem to trigger the engine management light at random even when they're new on this engine, you just have to learn to ignore them and they'll go away after a few days!
I think the Rally 2 and 4 had a different camshaft and a free flow air filter to squeeze the extra power, but you really have to rev it to get the best from it. I've never driven the standard Sirion, but I suspect that it's probably quicker in normal use.
Weary
Maybe try NTK/NGK ones?
I bought some NTK (NGK) ones for my YRV Turbo. Could be worth a try? Didn't see any ECU light come on with these. But then again a different engine with a Turbo (K3-VET). But it wasn't driven around like miss daisy either
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Thanks for the replies and
Thanks for the replies and such a welcoming response.
The light hasnt come back on for a week now I just cleared the code. Is this a known issue with these engines, then It had been sitting for a week without anyone giving a real boot which I did on purchase on the way home. Should I just wait to see if it appears back on the system before even bothering.
That sites great when I put the engine code in with -2 on it appears to be only listed as the sport.
My next post will likely be about paints and where best to get them, rust on 3 of the four arches which I will attempt to sort next summer. But best to get ahead of it now.
Did either of you find the steering super light at speeds about 50 and very twitchy? It doesnt feel as refined as its sister/cousin the Yaris. But I'm enjoying driving it.
Rally 2
My engine light has just switched itself off after a couple of days! It usually comes on when I'm sitting in traffic on tickover. I've learnt to just ignore it now, you can tell if there's a genuine problem because the tickover will become erratic or the fuel consumption will increase dramatically.
Never found the steering twitchy or too light! Start off checking tyre pressures, then maybe check the springs (both of mine broke!). Not sure whether the power steering can fluctuate, maybe someone else will know. I do know that putting different tyres on really changed how "pointy" mine was into the corners.
Weary
Right so the light came on
Right so the light came on again, after a good slugging. See if it goes off on its on.
Just to give an idea of fuel consumption atm, I maxed the tank and got 28 miles with a little fast driving in between before it dropped to the just under full marker.
I will see how much I get till it's 3 quaters full. think that should give a good idea.
I put some Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, just because it's an old car and I had it lying around, after taking some of the manky goldish colour stuff out (suspect some rust particles, maybe just me) Not sure what is in there in the first place this stuff is purple in nature (stop leak). Checked the tyres as alluded too, omg they were all 23 and less on all 4 of them, how the previous owner didn't notice, it did feel better after putting too 29 psi (as the door indicates) It seems to be less twitchy now stil not impressed with the tyres on it. Will change them when they wear pointless changing them for a second run around as there practically new on all sides. Prefer some like a uniroyal on me small hatches in general, anyway rabbiting on.
I will see if the light goes off, is there a way of finding the model on engine on the chasis somewhere before I go ahead with the Denso K3-VE2 version?
I get to about 75 miles at 3
I get to about 75 miles at 3/4 tank, 145 at 1/2 tank, you should squeeze 350 miles out of a tank if you're gentle. I average 48 mpg but I drive quite gently to work, just the odd revvy overtake but mixed with a bit of town driving. While you're playing about getting used to it you're more likely to get low to mid 40's.
I think all the K3-VE2 engines use the same sensors, even the tweaked Rally.
As for tyres, mine had new Hankooks all round when I bought it, they were quite square, so felt quite reactive to steering input, but the wet grip was diabolical! When I put Dunlops on the front they had so much more grip in the wet that I would get oversteer on roundabouts when the rear Hankooks lost grip - quite good fun as long as no one was about! Not very safe though.
Weary
Interesting
Interesting getting about that now, shall see on a full tank what I get and compare.
Been looking through the forum and looking into getting spares for the coil pack for example, wondering whether the 1.3 and 1.3 rally use the same surely they do?
Yeh I've ordered a universal sensor as I went on the Denso site and did a bit of research will need a simple re-wire and tape nothing I couldn't do. Think I'm just going to change it regardless as it keeps throwing up the error and wont clear on its own.
Yeh I used to have a Yaris 1.3 SR loved it to bits only got rid to get a RAV4 2.2(hate it, new arrival back then) I used dunlops and uniroyals (whichever was cheapest) both wet versions great tyres for safety.
Think you'll find all the
Think you'll find all the bits on the standard el and sl etc, are the same. The Rally engine just has a free flowing air filter element and different camshaft, and that's it. Suspension is stiffer and lower, and it has the best wheels, but other than that it's just a few badges etc. Not sure about the gearing compared to a standard Sirion though, it's clearly been geared to get to 60 in second.
Weary
Changed the one sensor, now
Changed the one sensor, now the other one is throwing up a fault, can some thing else cause the issue before I go down the route of replacing the other sensor.
The likelyness of them both going at once is slim right?
Could it be the MAP sensor?
Apparently the one I've fitted DX-109, the one I was alluded to via forum posts elsewhere is the wrong one, could this send the other into a loop?