saxan crusader extream bulid up


after purchasing a saxan crusader for £50 i plan on making this thing a monster. first of im going to bob tail the rear of it(cut some of the overhang off) then im going to transplant in a 2.8d, can i use the 1600 g/box or which box would be best to use for the lowest possible gearing. then i plan on fitting the axels off the fortrack dona for strength or are the 1.6 axels strong enough? (can i combine different axel parts to get the gearing even lower but still have the strength( dont mind swaping side gears over and that ).then im planing of fitting either 33" or 35" will the axels take it and will i be able to get the gearing low enough? this aint going to be road legal so im open to any ideas

I'm asuming from what your sa

I'm asuming from what your saying that the chassis/running gear of this car is F20 Fourtrak?

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

im not sure how would i tell.

im not sure how would i tell. do u know how to combine parts and which to get the gearing down?

check the chassis number

The F20 has a chassis number with F20 in it somewhere, the F50 and F70 etc all have those numbers in their chasis numbers so that should be easy to find out. The F20 (petrol) has lower diff ratios than the F50 diesel so you've already got the lowest, I think the tranfer gears and the main gearbox are the same. The suzuki crowd often swap the suzuki axles for the old F20/50 ones as they are stronger, so I reckon the only benefit of fitting the later fourtrak axles is the wider track = more stability. Wheel spaces would do the same. The rear diff is a 4 pin and the front is a 2 pin, remember these are part-time 4 wheel drive, with only the rear wheels driven most of the time. The low down torque from the 2.8D coupled with the low ratio diffs should give some real pull. I might be interested in putting a 2.8 diesel in my own F20 so keep us posted with any progress.


If your intending to use the

If your intending to use the F20 on the road, I wouldn't do it without changing the axle ratio as well, unless your fitting 33 tyres or more. Without doing one of these it'll pull like you wouldn't belive, exelerate like made, but be on the governers in top gear around 60mph. This was found by a mate who put an F50 lump into his F20.
As for all you've said about gearing and strength, I totaly agree. To push the point further, one of my clubs trials cars was an F50 chassis and running gear maried to a rover 3.5 V8, pushing around dumper tyres, and she never broke!
The weakest point on F20/50 running gear is the bolts that fix the free wheeling hubs to the main hub body. These have a tendency to work lose then shear off. Keeping them tight usually solves this problem. But a slightly more inivitive aproch has been used (for off roaders only). There are in exisitence (from early models) non free wheeling hub ends. These are steel (not alloy like the free wheeling hub ends). Remove the rims from two old wheels. Weld the steel hub end into the centre of the rimless wheels. Now put the hub ends into place on there half shaft splines so rimless wheels sit against normal wheels. Don't bolt the hub ends to the main hub body. Drill through both rimless and rimed wheels and bolt them together. Use as few bolts as you can. This isn't ment to stop the shearing off problem, as it's a 'good' week point, as other more expensive parts of the drive chain don't break instead. But it does mean that if you shear the bolts off, you can just put new ones streight in, instead of spending hours with easey outs trying to remove the sheared ends from your main hub bodies.
Anouther good place to use a welder on an off road F20/50 is to reinforce the front spring hangers on the rear springs. These are mounted on an outrigger made of tube. This tube eventually twists and sometimes shear off after much off road punishment.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

so over all which axel is the

so over all which axel is the strongest and can i fit the lower diff into the strongest shafts (dont mind changing side gears like). im hopeing to be running 35"