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how complex are brake shoes and all the springs and cylinder to re-place??? i have taken my truck to a garage who say its a risky job and their hours could mount up... so.... ive decided to brave it myself, just thought id quickly chicken out and see if anyone on here has any suggestions or 'watch out for the troll that jumps out at you' experience!
many thanks in ad.
steve
piece of piss, just drum
piece of piss, just drum brakes, your garage sounds like there just theiving so n so's, risky job? psml, when you get the drum off, take a pic or two of the setup, where the springs sit etc, clean it all, copper grease on all moving parts, if you fit new shoes you have to swop the h.brake lever over, its all obvious really.
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
www.bloodredoffroad.com
www.milneroffroad.com
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agreed
i can understand that mouths need to be fed etc but its scandalouse the amount of money exchanged for easy jobs!. how do you mean about the handbrake leaver>
the whole thing like? also just to add, the brakes failed on the back their score was 3% effective! lol they must be bad! 
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
Easy .. money for old rope.
Your garage is having a laugh. Dismantling the rear brakes is childs play. I suggest you use a digital camera and photo the assembled bits so you know where they reassemble.
1. Slacked the handbrake cable fully off. Undo the nuts on the brake cable adjusters - found at the base of the handbrake. If the cable is not undone then the brake drums will not remove from the hubs - the brake shoes get wedged in a worn groove around the inside of the drums. The handbrake is the shoe adjuster - when refitting the shoes are adjusted by ratcheting the handbrake cable up/down/up/down to pull the shoes against the drums. When the handbrake goes tight, the adjustment is complete.
If the drums will not remove the use a hub-puller or soak the rust overnight with WD40. Often tapping with a soft hammer will jerk the drums free.
2. When bleeding the brakes do the longest run first, then the next and finish at the shortest run.
3. If undoing a brake pipe I suggest you go and buy a brake-ring spanner to do the job. The 'ring' is almost a complete closure but has a gap to pass over the brake pipe. An ordinary spanner will slip and wreck the barke pipe's nut hexagonal head.
so true....
i totally agree, i mean we used to have a car and we sent it in for a service, two weeks later it siezed on us.... could be coinsidance or.... who knows! i shall definatly be doing it myself.... thankyou for all the sound advice guys really appreiciate it, im sick of being spat on by folk trying to commit daylight robbery!
cheers.
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
how common is it
to need new pipes when taking this nut off?? ive ordered a spanner so just waiting arrival of this, would a good penetrating oil do?
cheers
steve
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
Penetrating oil.
Soak any thread with penetrating oil and leave it overnight. A spanner of the type already mentioned should do the job. Position the spanner and use a firm twist. Thoroughly clean any threads to be reused. If you do need to get a new pipe then dismantled up to the next nut. Take the pipe to a diy shop and they will make a duplicate at minimal cost.
You might dicover some gentle heat on a rusted thread often helps crack any tight fix. Heat expands nuts greater than the expansion of a thread. This really helps loosening rusted nuts. Do not over heat and take care not to start a fire since penetrating oil burns! Use a hair dryer.
If the slave cylinders are leaking then buy new. They are not very expensive.
Back off the brake shoe adjusting cams before refitting the new shoes. Usually the shoes will be levered qently outwards and into their seating lugs. The brake shoe slack will be taken up after the drums are refitted and by ratcheting the handbrake.
many thanks
i shall soak them tonight as tommorow is the day we will be attacking them. i have bought:
. new brake drums LH/RH
. new cylinders LH/RH
. new shoes
. new springs etc.
. new pads and discs for the front.
all of this 'mintex' equipment came to half of what the mechanic told me it would cost to do ONE side of the rear brakes! i have done both front and back for cheaper.
I dont mind parting with the money aslong as its right!.
many thanks for your great advice shall let you know hoe i get on.
steve
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
many thanks
i shall soak them tonight as tommorow is the day we will be attacking them. i have bought:
. new brake drums LH/RH
. new cylinders LH/RH
. new shoes
. new springs etc.
. new pads and discs for the front.
all of this 'mintex' equipment came to half of what the mechanic told me it would cost to do ONE side of the rear brakes! i have done both front and back for cheaper.
I dont mind parting with the money aslong as its right!.
many thanks for your great advice shall let you know hoe i get on.
steve
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
mystery...??
my trak failed its re-mot test, we replaced drums shoes pipes, cylinders evrything but it has just failed on handbrake and service brake... im baffled... we definatly put everything back correct we checked 4 times!, the handbrake we adjusted aftrewards like ratcheted it up etc but obviousy hasnt worked... we freed up the adjusters and everything... any ideas?? have piccys to but cant post them on here for some reason?? if you want pics i can send them to ur addy?...
steve.
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
re-failed
Trouble is with diy mechanics it sometimes pays to have someone over you to just double check the job,, if its failed on the rear and everything is new then its fitter error, I wonder if you have not tightened the shoes up against the drums hard enough with the h/brake off, then tightened the brake cable after, or pehaps you have not got all the air out of the system? When I fit new shoes on drums, yes you want the h/brake slack but I tighten the shoe so that its slightly difficult to turn the drum by hand-fourtraks have more power than a person and it wont hurt, did you cover everything in copper grease? Mating faces, springs, adjusters,sliding parts etc?
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
www.bloodredoffroad.com
www.milneroffroad.com
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youtube: Redfourtrack
re-test
yes we covered everything movable in grease but sparingly as to not get it splash onto drums etc when in use!, what we had done wrong is EXACTLY what you said, just unfortunate it was a garage that found that out and not me! they have done the work and have put it back in for a fresh new MOT this afternoon, really frustrating that though! i have learned another valuble lesson from all of this! cheers
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
Lesson in checking ............
Whilst the rear is raised on axle stands, try the brakes!
1. One person by hand revolves both rear wheels and a mate presses the foot brake. You will know if they bite simultaneously and if effective.
2. Do the same with the handbrake. Three handbrake clicks and the handbrake should be simultaneously holding both rear wheels.
Then go for a test drive.
lol true.
we did this and all seemed fine.... weird.... anyway its passed at long last! bring on the fun. this truck is going to be brilliantly looked after from now on!
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
Lesson in checking ............
Whilst the rear is raised on axle stands, try the brakes!
1. One person by hand revolves both rear wheels and a mate presses the foot brake. You will know if they bite simultaneously and if effective.
2. Do the same with the handbrake. Three handbrake clicks and the handbrake should be simultaneously holding both rear wheels.
Then go for a test drive.
Lesson in checking ............
Whilst the rear is raised on axle stands, try the brakes!
1. One person by hand revolves both rear wheels and a mate presses the foot brake. You will know if they bite simultaneously and if effective.
2. Do the same with the handbrake. Three handbrake clicks and the handbrake should be simultaneously holding both rear wheels.
Then go for a test drive.
Lesson in checking ............
Whilst the rear is raised on axle stands, try the brakes!
1. One person by hand revolves both rear wheels and a mate presses the foot brake. You will know if they bite simultaneously and if effective.
2. Do the same with the handbrake. Three handbrake clicks and the handbrake should be simultaneously holding both rear wheels.
Then go for a test drive.