Is this my head gasket?? PLEASE NO!

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OK, had a horrible thought to day whilst looking at the 4x4. I noticed when I was moving another car with the sportrak that there was lots of water vapour coming from the exhaust (how ever the engine wasn’t particularly hot) I looked at the coolant levels and it was under half way, between full and min. Also I have an oil leak as some of you may know, as you offered advice. It looks like it may be coming out the side of the head gasket is this possible or am I being stupid? There is a fair amount of oil stains around this area. Please some one give me some good news so I can tackle other problems such as a possible buckled wheel! New tyres are defiantly on hold. Cray 2 The feeling that everything is going wrong!

no gimmick

but you can get them much cheaper nowadays specially if you have a local market near you, you'll probaly get it for under 5quid....

anyway the product is very good and useful if you know where the crack is, if it is a hair-line crack which i doubt even superman can see then this product be useless unless you want all mad by covering everything with it...LOL....

Snake Oil I'd say

Got to say that in my experience this stuff and other's like it never do a good job if you're looking to keep the vehicle. If you looking to just do a temporary fix to sell the vehicle to some poor unsupecting sap them it might just work long enough Wink

No real substitue to doing a proper job Smile

Only my opinion

EBAY Item290122954754

Gimmick, probably but some of these new sealants work for a while and the Yanks seem to have something for everything. I would say probably fine for an emergency "quick fix" to get you home but not a solution as they say. Ebay has a number of gimmicks like the chips for increasing performance, they do nothing whatsove,r much like the "once" only car polish....rubbish. In the end its always spanners out and bite the bullet.

OLDMINIMAN

M J Young

Run it in to the ground?

Ok, cheers for your opinions. I might be tempted to try it as I don’t have the money to fix it properly at them moment. I need to find my self a new engine and then over come the problems of fitting it! One other question I have. Is it better to change the head gasket (bearing in mind the engine is supposedly only done 50000) or get a new engine. The timing belt needs replacing any way. At the moment the loss of coolant isn’t loads. Should I just run this engine in to the ground for as long as possible and replaced the whole thing.

i wouldnt advice running ur engine to the ground

daihatsu make really good engines, my charade had done 148'000 when i sold it, and currently the hijet i have is currently at 111'000 and drives great and sounds like i could do another 100'000 from it...
so i wouldnt advice you run ur engine to the ground unless you were getting a cheap engine then i still wouldnt advice it caus you still get money for it off ebay, best bet and cheaper would be to get the head gasket change if that is causing you the most problem.....

Blown Head Gasket.

You say you were moving a car with yours and steam was emitting from the exhaust. How long had the Sportrak been running and what were the weather conditions. On start up engines produce a lot of condensation that is discharged into the exhaust system as vapour. On cold mornings/days this can last a long time and as the engine heats up will decrease once all the condensation is dried out of the system. On a cold morning/day this is worstened as the hot exhaust immediatly condensates with the outside cold air, that why cars appear to steam at traffic lights in the winter. It is steam but not from the car directly but where the hot gases are meeting with the cold air.

Had you checked the coolant level before the tow begun or as a result of the steam you saw? It is quite likely that the level was already low and you are worrying over nothing, bearing in mind your statement that the car did not overheat.

There are many symptons that indicate a blown head gasket, the most common being the slurry that forms in the oil from mixing water with oil. It appears as a salad cream and is obvious on the bottom of the filler cap abd on the dipstick. Overnight the water will rise to the top of the oil and be obvious on the dipstick. Additional symptons are overheating, were high temperature exhaust gases superheat the water and up goes the temperature guage.

I'd be tempted to monitor the loss of water over a few days checking that their are no obvious leaks, check the oil and the water for the dreaded "salad cream" and keep an eye on the temperature guage. If it rides high then you have an overheating problem which could be the head gasket. Use the heater and it's fan to cool the system to get home if necessary.

Daihatsu engines are quite long lived and would be well worth repairing if the mileage is correct or even double.
Oil often gathers on the edge of the cylinder head and block joint as well as on the top cover and the head joint.

The gasket often causes a ledge where stray oil accumilates. I would clean all traces off and then keep an eye on it. It may be a spillage or even where the dip stick has caught. Oil spreads and often looks much worse than reality. I doubt unless you have a warped head that oil is escaping from the gasket.

As far as I am concerned none of the solutions like rad weld or bars leaks provide a long term solution but if I were thinking about trying one then I would go for BARS LEAKS whick contains a lubricant for the water pump as well a brass filings to seal any tiny leaks. In the past this is the only one that I have used that worked but not long term.

So my conclusions are that the level may well have been low before you sarted the rescue attempt. As the engine did not over heat whilst hauling the other car, that is good and unless you find oil and water contamination or overheating then the head gasket sounds ok. The oils should be thouroughly cleaned off and then watched as should be the temperatur guage. Running it into the ground as you say is probably what we are all doing as the values are continuing to drop off.

Hope some of this is of use

OLDMINIMAN

M J Young

Thank for all the

Thank for all the information. I have toped up the coolant and am going to keep an eye on it. The car had not been running for a long time but was on a fairly warm day. There were droplets of water forming and lining the inside of the exhaust as well as the water vapour puffing out. This is what gave me reason to check the coolant level. I am going to continue to check it. I have not seen the dreaded salad cream so I am pretty happy about that! The one thing which I am a bit concerned about is the fact that my oil leak isn’t particularly bad driving around town and of road; it is when I am on the motorway. The oil had completely drained after 350 miles. The fact that it is only bad on the motor way suggest to me (I could be very wrong) that the engine is burning the oil or the leak is worsened under high speed. Having said that there is not the grey/black smoke. I have smelt a strange exhaust smell best described as an eggy smell but not quite (not sure if this is relevant.) I am worried as I need to change the timing belt, I do not want to do this is if the gasket is about to let me down.
I will clean all the oil of and see if I can continue to identify where it is coming from. It may be worth getting a bottle of sealant as people have said for a quick fix in an emergency.

HEAD GASKET

The sulphric smell is usually normal from the CAT before it get to operating temperature.

To check if you are burning oil, look initially at the exhaust, blue smoke indicates oil and if the soot inside the pipe is oily then that also suggests oil. To be more precise check each spark plug for oily black deposits either on one ar some or all of the plugs. When the car has done a good few miles especially on the Motorway plug deposits should be sandy brown, if white the mixture is too weak whilst if black too rich, however if they are black and oily then oil is being burnt. Sometimes this will only show on one plug and may indicate a worn bore, ring or broken oil ring. It can also indicate worn valves or valve guides allowing oil to be drawn either past the rings in the first instance or down the valve stems in the later. Normally if the bores are worn you will have blue smoke most of the time and an MOT failure. It may also be heard dependant upon the amount as "piston slap" on decelleration as the pistons move about within the bores. If any of this is the case then check the compression on each and compare that to the compression recommended. Any major variation on one or more cyliders will indicate a loss of compression. i think, but am not sure, that a difference of 20% on any cylinder indicates a problem with that or more cylinders. I'm sure someone will correct me if I am incorrect on this figure. I would also expect a lack of performance to be present with low compression.

A lot to checking and a lot of food for thought but none insurmountable I'm sure. Loss of that amount of oil is quite serious and should not be just attributed to motorway speeds as the oil pressure varies very little once above idle speed. It may well be that a leak is occuring and being picked up by speed and spread over the bottom of the car but it would have to be obvious.

If you want to see visually if oil is burning then cruising at say 30 - 40mph take your foot off the accelerator and then looking in the rear view mirror accelerate again. This allows oil to be drawn under pressure into the cylinders with your foot off and when you accelerate you will see a puff of blue smoke in the rear view mirror as the oil is burnt.

GOOD LUCK
OLDMINIMAN

M J Young

Greatly Appreciated

Than you once again for taking your time to help me! It is greatly appreciated. There is no blue smoke, I will have to check all the above that your have said. One think you said about piston slap on deceleration as the pistons move about within the bores. What sort of noise is this and can it occur when first accelerating as well. When driving at 15-20 mph when I lift my foot of the accelerator there is a klunk and when I put my foot back down on the accelerator klunk occurs again.
I new there was a better word to describe the smell! Sulphuric smell.
I will carry out a compression test ASAP how ever like you said you would expect a performance drop which I haven’t yet noticed.

HEAD GASKET

Piston Slap...The easiest way of decribing is high pitch rattle on decelleration. Don't confuse this with the quite common CATALYTIC CONVERTOR rattle which dissappears at about 2500+/- RPM and rea[ppears when slowing down. It is not as loud as the clatter of big ends but is a tinkling rattle. A compression test will identify if the compresion is down.

I think I would remove the sump guard, have a look then for obvious build up of oil. Then Gunk or Jizer (an aeresol is easiest with the engine just warm) the entire engine and gearbox and then wash that off which should clean all the oil off the mechanices and then look for it's reappearance. Leave the guards off overnight and some card beneath the engine to catch any drips. Who knows some one may have forgotten to replace the sump plug seal. The seal is normally a fibre resin seal (blue) THAT OFTEN STICKS TO THE SUMP AND IS OVERLOOKED. IT CAN RESEAL WITH LUCK BUT SHOULD BE PRISED OFF AND EITHER REPLACED WITH THE SAME OF A COPPER SEALING WASHER

The low and high marks on the dipstick are about half a pint of oil so if you are losing that only in 300 miles then that is a lot but not as much as the entire sump and could just be down to an oil leak. Look around the engine area with the sump guards off even a small amount will spread a long way.

It is a case of discounting and eliminating the obvious and the cheapest. Don't get too paranoid about noises as they are often nothing unless accompanied by other warnings like blue smoke etc. I'm glad you don't have the blue smoke and if the plugs are sandybrown then you can virtually forget the head gasket. These engines are very robust and with such low miles I would not expect piston slap to be a problem. My hunch is an oil leak.

As a final point you said that there was an oil leak on the edge of the engine. Was it below the rocker box cover. Rocker box is an old term and should in this case be cam cover. That is the alloy top of the engine. This has a rubber seal which can let oil if knackered,twisted or snagged also look at the corners of the top alloy cover for cracks as this can occur when the cover is overtightened and again will cause oil to escape and run down the side of the engine. The head gasket is lower down.

Again lots to look for and check . Lets hope it is something very simple as I am sure it will be.

OLDMINIMAN

M J Young

Ok, from what you have said

Ok, from what you have said about piston slap, I am pretty sure that it isn’t a problem, how ever will still carry out a compression test to make sure.
You have defiantly made me feel a little better and I think I may be (hope to be) Far too paranoid.
You are right; it appears to be coming from the cam cover. I haven’t yet identified any cracks, but I am guessing if I do it will need to be replaced? You have almost written me a manual for the 4X4! Like I have said before- A fountain of knowledge! Thank you once again.

Greatly Appreciated

Than you once again for taking your time to help me! It is greatly appreciated. There is no blue smoke, I will have to check all the above that your have said. One think you said about piston slap on deceleration as the pistons move about within the bores. What sort of noise is this and can it occur when first accelerating as well. When driving at 15-20 mph when I lift my foot of the accelerator there is a klunk and when I put my foot back down on the accelerator klunk occurs again.
I new there was a better word to describe the smell! Sulphuric smell.
I will carry out a compression test ASAP how ever like you said you would expect a performance drop which I haven’t yet noticed.