cross member snapped on 94 fieldman


well out lamping last night and managed to snap the cross member above the rear axle. on inspection where it had snapped joining the chassis it was very corroded what would be the best way to weld it by sleeving the cross member with new steel or weld a new tube of steel through the chassis and into the cross member or cut another cross member of an old four trak(which i have a doner vechile)any help welcome or pictures of how its been done before, thanks swampy

snapped cross member

any one with advice on this repair would be apprec going to give it ago today thanks swampy


Hi Swampy,I had exactly the same prob wi mwine,tried to weld it up,complete waist of time,replaced wi new part from Atkinsons 01538 702233 for about £100,now better than ever was!Hope this helps,Ally

snapped cross member

cheers for that ally ,i had a look this afternoon and the other sides corroded as well,must be a common fault, i would still like to sleeve repair it if i can so if theres anyone out there with experience of this type of problem. also once repaired is there a modifacation to improve on whats there eg-filling with oil and capping of the ends with steel etc any advice would be welcome, thanks again swampy

Very Cross Member

The last one i did entailed using heavy box section and reinforcing the chassis at the same time.

Cut some 5mm thick plate to the profile of the chassis, ensure it extends at least 9" past the crossmember in each direction, and fully weld this in.

Using thick wall box section of the same external dimensions as the crossmember, weld this to the reinforcing plate, using plenty of power to ensure maximum strength. drill a 10mm hole near each end and treat with either Dinitrol or Waxoyl internally.

Using thikcwall box section of around 6mm wall thickness will give substantial life without treatment, but will give infinate life if treated.

fao assassin re cross member

thanks for the reply,theres no corrosion on the chassis its just the cross member which has rotted out, both sides on the inside where the cross member joins the chassis (if that makes sense?) it seems to me that a build of mud goes in through the round hole in front of the rear wheel on the chassis and stays wet and rots the cross member out thats why i was thinking of capping them over with steel but didnt know if there was any reasons why i shouldnt do this? cheers swampy


If they just want capping, that would be better done with plastic caps for steel tubing, these are available for all shapes and sizes of tube, and are cheap.
Treat the inside for protection with oil, as you suggested and purchase two plastic caps of the right size and simply tap in, they can be removed as and if you require it.


good idea that,i have decided to slide a new pipe section either side of the chassis into the cross member as far as it goes before it hits the bend, weld it and then sandich the cross member with some steel tube which i will cut in half lenght ways and weld through on high amps to fuse the lot together i will let you all know if it was a worthwhile procedure or if it is worth cutting out and replacing with new thanks for all the replys swampy

cross members

Atkinson Automotive has just had some new cross-members made. I've just had mine done (1994 F78)- fantastic job ! Talk to Paul on 01538 702233

mine has gone after looking

mine has gone after looking what had gone decided to cut all of it out and replce with 2" box section chasssis is solid so fab up the shape of the box to the pipe so it goes over the prop shaft weld 2 new fixing points for the drop links and then weld 2 plates on the end to fix to chassis nut and bolted then welded. capped of the exturnal hole on the chassis to avoid mud water etc doing the same again.after fabing up the new section i got it galv dipped naughty to weld but its coated on the inside worse thing was getting the old shite out limeted room with grinder or burning gear

Hi, I had mine snap off, I

Hi, I had mine snap off, I welded a new thick tube not dissimillar to scaffold tube between the chassis a little further back from where the original sat as it gave a better angle for the pinion to prop on lifted suspension as i converted it to air suspension at the same time. You can do it this way but you will need to shorten the trailing arms the same distance you move the tube back. Another point to remember is there are adverts out there for new replacement stainless steel tube, it has been known for these to fatigue at the weld points and snap off( not good when out towing at high speed) due to the molecular structure when stainless is welded to mild steel. So if you can fabricate something yourself it will be much better.

Hope this helps


Corroded crossmember

Up until this morning I knew nothing about crossmembers ! Then having been to my local garage to investigate a loud clanging noise from the back axle, the mechanic got it up on the ramp followed by a series of intakes of breath, and " jees..your chassis is goosed" and "if that goes it,ll take your axle with it".The crossmember on the back has just about rusted through on both sides,so have read the posts above and have just spoken to Paul at Atkinsons, and despite Feb not being my best month financially being self employed..think i,m going to have to have the AA take it down to him and have a new one fitted. I tow a trailer to events most weekends from next month cant leave this any longer, as I know that having seen it..I couldnt even risk towing a fat lass on a bike let alone a trailer !He seems a genuine fella does Paul..i,d just rather be spending money on him doing something sexy to the truck like a lift kit or something !but Hey ho..such is life..just means i,ll be without the old girl for a week or least I can get the bike wont be stranded..will keep you posted..then once thats done I can get back to thinking about making it a ragtop again !!

My 4 trak is ALMOST as much fun as my bike !

i wouldnt cap the ends off if

i wouldnt cap the ends off if i were you. atleast uncapped water can get out again and not sit in the crossmember. drill some holes in the cross member and get a waxoyle probe and give the whole thing a coating inside. then what i would do is give it a good blasting through with old engine oil. as for atkinsons charging £100 for a crossmember thats way over priced. just go to you local fab shop with the old one and get one made out of tube with something like a 5mm wall.