Blower switch Rocky


Ok the heater died a while back. By the way I was running it full time to cool the engine. Engine is rebuilt, rodded raditator, water pump....

So the resistor had one blown coil. Replaced.
The 30amp fuse and the gauge fuse connected to the relay are good.

The motor was removed and tested. No problem.

When the switch is moved to all but the highest setting the relay clicks.

When testing continuity between the pins of the connector the first position is fine. I am confused as to how to test the continuity between the positions ( see table ) where there are several points. should there be continuity between them all, just the first and last. I dont understand.

So the dash is completely removed and now I'm having problems removing the switch. It must come out right?

If anyone has gone through this much testing and can help me out with what to do next I'd appreciate it.


Ok here are the results of testing the points:
Position 1: e and lo good
pos 2: e and lo good. e and m1 good. lo and m1 good
pos 3: e and lo good. e and m2 bad. lo and m2 bad
pos 4: e and lo good. e and hi bad. lo and hi bad.

Ok you can take the switch

Ok you can take the switch apart. There are some black tabs you need to release and inside there is a spring and some copper connections. They were pretty dirty.

Some electrical spray and steel wool cleaned up the contacts.

However after retesting it looks like position 2 and 4 are reversed...

Must be an error in the manual because looking at the contacts there isn't a way to mix them up

Still I'm a little concerned that even with one good connection before I got no heat.

I'll report back after I put it back together.


Yup the manual is incorrect in case anyone has this same problem. pos 2 and 4 are switched.

The problem holding up everything was a relay that appeared to be functioning but was in fact not ( was clicking in response to blower switch but not delivering )