ATTENTION all YRV TURBO owners

Forum: 

Hi,

I recently contacted Daihatsu UK about the "pinking noise" on the K3-VET engine.
As expected they deny any knowledge of the problem, saying there had been only two Technical problems back in 2002.
The first was a rattle from an air hose and a screech from wrongly tensioned serpentine belt.
They dont even admit to the rear anti-roll bar bracket failiure or the rear exhaust section that falls off!!
They were quick in correcting me when i said there was a "known fault with the DVVT unit", after listing the faults above they ended by saying "therefore in terms of a known fault with the DVVT unit on the YRV model, i would have to respectfully disagree".. They also assume the noise has not got worse, caused any drivability or reliability issues.
I know my noise has got worse, more so on cold start. Regards the latter, who knows i dont do many miles and at just 28,000 i think its still early days yet.
I have not touched the small pencil filter mentioned in a previous post just yet, dont want to be accused of tampering.
I have replied to their letter and apart from saying alot of owners have the same noise problem etc, i want them to confirm if the "pencil filter" should be checked/cleaned by the dealership mechanics on oil service.
I have a feeling the mechanics dont even know its there and is maybe the cause of the noise or caused damage to the DVVT to create the noise.
I always use Comma engine flush every intermediate oil change i do and even pop some in before it goes to the dealers too, so my filter should not get blocked.
I have the Turbo specific service and technical manual and there is no mention of service on the VVT filter but it does show the VVT filter in a picture of the engine showing oil flow of the internals.
Like me i know alot of you have also been to the dealership while still in warranty about the "noise" and been fobbed off with all kinds of excuses.
We need to stick together on this and force them to sort it out.
Please come forward and say if yours has the "noise", with your permission i would like to present them a list of owners so they can see this is no isolated problem.

Cheers, Dave.

Hiya, As I think i've

Hiya,

As I think i've mentioned in older posts relating to the problem my YRV Turbo does have the "pinking noise" especially when cold. Though when its been at its loudest with a cold engine have been the few times that the Gearbox had made a loud clunk when put into Drive and the drive light then flashed and car wouldn't change out of 1st gear. Put back into park and turn the engine off, and turn back on and put into drive and then been fine. Only had this about 4 times, so not sure whether is linked to the pinking noise and whatever causing that messing with what the ECU tells the gearbox, though have always noticed the pinking noise being of significant volume at the time shortly before it happened.

____________
03 Reg Yellow YRV Turbo!

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Pinking YRV

I had the pinking problem start when my Turbo had done around 22k miles and the dealer said they phoned Daihatsu's technical dept. and were advised to use an oil flush, which they did and it has worked, with the pinking coming back when its due an oil change.

Dealer has told me that they were advised that deposits form in the oilways of the DVVT pump and mechanism and that an oil flush usually dislodged it.

No mention of small filter though!

Incidentally the car has now covered 56700 miles, with only a very slight pinking noise from cold when the temperature is around or below 0*C

Pinking

This is what i cant get my head round.
No mention of flush in their letter to me.
Mine started at the same mileage as yours. I always use flush and its had oil changes many more times than whats normaly needed. I bought it with 15k on the clock and now showing 28k, so 13k in 3 years and 5 oil changes is sufficient. Another is due right now and i'm letting the dealers do this one and i'll stick a bottle of flush on the counter for them.
The former owner did his own intermediate changes for the first 18 months along with the dealership services.
Theres no point in changing the main oil filter if the pencil filter is not checked/cleaned/replaced too.
The fact the dealership mechanics dont or i assume they dont check it causes me concern. Its a gadget designed to filter so it must get clogged at some point yet no mention in the service manual or by the dealerships and thats strange?
The noise may not actualy be valve pinking and could be the timing chain chattering on its guide tensioner. Its all related to the DVVt or its oil supply one way or another.
Why did the dealerships not tell us about the simple flush and why did they not do it. If they did flush, we should not get the noise its as simple as that.
Why have we been fed all kinds of reasons why its doing it when the answer was out there all along??
Surely damage or wear has been caused by the lack of oil and thats why i feel Daihatsu UK should sort this problem out.

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Good luck with the petition Dave!

Hi Dave,

You know where I stand on this one as well. If you need help/backing give us a shout and I will also send off an E-mail/Letter to Daihatsu as well. Wink

Cheers,

Jon.

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'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
130BHP/305BHP

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Daihatsu UK reply letter

Well Dai UK are standing firm on the noise issue.
Got a short reply from them with no answers to the questions i asked.
"Whilst i appreciate the position you are taking in regard to the DVVT unit on your YRV, i would reconfirm our position as previously outlined in my letter. I am sorry that on this occasion we are not able to provide further assistance".
My local dealership say they dont use flush on oil change for starters and assume others do the same. In this case those who only do dealer oil changes should deffinately develop the problem.
I use flush so it should not happen to me but it does, so flush is not the centre of the problem.
Dai UK have not suggested flush to me as a cure or that using it would have prevented the problem? Nor have they even offered to get it looked over to try and sort this as a good will gesture.
If Dai UK just said yes we are aware of it but its just a noise and wont cause any long term problems, just flush and using a slightly different thicker spec oil will help then it would not be so bad but they just say "what noise" and slam the door in your face.
You should not have to use a thicker oil than recomended unless the engine is worn a bit, so is the DVVT worn i ask???????????????

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Daihatsu UK reply 2

The MD Paul Tunnicliffe was away so the Technical manager replied on his behalf. This is a summary below:

The regional service manager would like/offered, to inspect my car!

Get on this for answers to my concerns -

The small pencil filter does not require periodic maintenance Scratch one-s head
You should not use oil flush and this advice has always been consistant for DVVT engines since the year 2000 Shok
Although the book says use 5w-30 you can use any oil spec but say 10w-40 is what's generaly used in the UK Scratch one-s head
All Technical and customer service personnel are all trained engineers and share information. Scratch one-s head

Ok i expected them to be naturaly defensive but some of this is just not true or an acceptable standard.

If they share information then why not tell me this information in their first letter. Secondly why have both local dealerships mentioned nothing? Information then is either not exchanged, recorded or forgotten shortly afterwards??

A different oil has never been suggested although the dealership was suprised when i said i prefer a full synthetic 5w-30. They said they would normaly use 5w-30 semi synthetic usualy used on the Copen??

It all sounds like a catch 22 situation to me. Had i never used any engine flush then that would have been the cause of the DVVT noise. Also sounds like i've been using the wrong oil spec and thats the cause too!!
Lets have it right, i have never been told by anybody not to use flush or 5w-30 oil and how can what i have done cause the same noise on other owners cars. Why tell member YRV130 to use flush then???

Watch this space!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Interesting.............

Thanks for the update Dave. Sounds Like you are getting somewhere now, my service is due in a weeks time, so if Daihatsu are saying use a 10w-40 and I have been using a 5w-30 fully-synthetic like you, does that mean they can get you on the clause of 'You caused this, so you pay for it?' Now I'm confused whether to buy some 10w-40 fully synthetic this time Blush

I beleive both Subaru and Daihatsu use IM (International Motors) for parts and accessories etc... Interesting that Subaru Dealerships now use 10w-40 semi-synthetic oil when servicing Imprezas. Last year they too used 5w-30 semi as part of the 12 month service interval, and as you know Imprezas are EJ20 engines with 2.0 litre 16valve big turbos Scratch one-s head
Sounds like issues with engines have caused the changes perhaps in Japan? ummmm... Wink
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP
130BHP/305BHP

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Very Interesting.

2003 Sirion SL 1300. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape much.

Well done on your investigations.

Iv'e never had the pinking on my 1300 Sirion.

And I always use a 5/40 Synthetic Oil.

In fact I have just changed the oil,filter and plugs (72,000 MILES)
Running as sweet as a nut !!

Good Luck - Keep us informed.

Cheers, BobF.

2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.

The result???

The car has now been looked at by Dai UK service manager, a realy nice guy armed with a diagnostic DS2 analyser and a very good knowledge of engines etc.
The result is he could find no wrong Shok On the road test the loud custom stainless exhaust and induction kit spoiled listening to what a normal K3VET engine should sound like. I could only just hear the noise on road test but the analyser showed all was running ok. Idle and fast idle sounded perfect to him and complemented how good the engine looked and reved smoothly.The DS2 analyser showed all sensors including the DVVT were all spot on and alot better than he expected.
Although i have always used engine flush it has not caused any recorded or obvious faults with the DVVT system.
He confirmed that flush should not be used and the small DVVT filter does not need any maintenance. A 10w-40 oil is also recommended. He also said the dealership that claimed to member YRV130 to have phoned Technical for advice never phoned them and may have been self guessing a solution as flush usualy sorts noisey tappets etc. He did hint that the rareness of the YRV may cause a slight lack of dealership knowledge but information is always available from Technical.
He explained in great detail how the DVVT system works and how the thickness and flow of oil etc control its operation. This possibly explains why the noise appears more loud on cold days, start up and less when warmed up.
All i/we can do now is try a 10w-40 oil and see what difference that makes, i think its the oil and not the flush that seems to have sorted YRV130's car out.
I will also get the vumm vumm vumm stainless exhaust quitened down too, i dont like it anyway. Before you say why have it loud in the first place? I did'nt, the original front pipe was cracked, making it loud to start with. When i took it in to the makers, Tony Banks Exhausts, thought that was normal and made it slightly louder to the mild sport sound i asked for.
The service manager did say if i put the original air box back on and quiten the exhaust he would pop back for another listen.
The good of the outcome is they are now aware of the "Noise", the feelings of owners and this is no isolated case. If the noise does evolve into a breakdown then i am sure they will sort something out.
I tried Sad

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Well done for your

Well done for your persistance Dave, I wonder if I have then gone for 30,000 miles+ with oil flushes potentially damaging the engine!

The last oil change was done by me as the car is almost 6 years old and valued at £2200 at the dealer as a trade in! Cray 2

I used a Wynn's oil flush and Halford's own brand 10W40 semi synthetic, so maybe it was the 10W40 that made the difference! Anyone tried 20W50! Lol

Whether my dealer phoned Technical or not, I suspect the dealer will say they did and Technical will deny it!

I found Technical to be 'patchy' on their knowledge of YRV Turbo's (non existant in terms of brake discs, their recommended part no. was the same disc as the standard YRV!) and I suspect that Technical also cover any other vehicle that IM imported over the years! Wink

Oil & Pinking.!!

2003 Sirion SL 1300. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape much.

I bet if you put good old 20/50 in it.

It won't even turn over !! Smile

BobF.

2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.

To Flush or Not to Flush...

..now that may seem like a simple question - cos why would an oil flush that cleans the gunk from your engine internals be bad for it?
Well. It can be. Under certain circumstances.
Have to start with some basics of tribology (the study of several subjects including friction, wear, lubrication and basically any interacting surfaces in relative motion).
I used to be a component engineer looking after large pumps, valves and systems at a nuclear power station, and this was one of my painstaking studies into pretty much the same thing that can (and regularly does) happen in car engines.
Engine oil (like u buy off the shelf eg shell, BP, etc) is made of the base oil as well as the very important parts - the additives. Now for every amount of oil, there is a finite amount of additives in it. These additives are things like detergents, anti-foaming agents, anti-corrosive agents, even colourants/dyes. The important thing to remember is, these additives get used up. Some faster than others in different situations. Oil has quality standards and specifications (check on the bottle) and I am not talking about just the viscosity (or high and low temp viscosities). They must provide evidence that there oil can provide the necessary other properties according to industry standards for the required service intervals.
So what has all of this got to do with engine oil flushing:
Basically the reason engine oil flush can get rid of gunk/slime/varnish/sludge or whatever u wanna call it is that it is an enemy of it. It breaks it down and dissolves/emulsifies it (and its additives) and allows it to be drained out the sump/drain plug... or does it? So here is the BIG PROBLEM:
It is physically impossible without completely dismantling the engine, to get rid of all that very hateful flush. Which means some of it will inevitably remain when you put your nice expensive fully synthetic oil in the engine. And now because the FS Oil is so good at what it does, it uses its very effective additives to combine and emulsify the remaining flush (which it recognises as an enemy to good lubrication) and now you have already shortened the effective lifespan of the new oil. This obviously happens in varying degrees, which can be 1 month to 1 year of equivalent "normal" wear and tear and driving. That is why this may affect 1 person in 2 months but never affect someone else. There is infinite amounts of possibilities of how much flush is left, what the quality of the oil is, how hard u drive the car, how often u change your oil etc.
So when DO you use flush? Short answer - try not to. But some cases like blown head gasket (water mixed in and u get the oil-water sludge rusting everything, or an engine standing for years, well u get the picture. And if u do use engine flush, then buy some cheap new oil (ASDA/Halfords etc), and run it for a day or 2 after u have flushed it and then drain that out and put ur nice expensive synthetic oil.

Now to solve another mystery.
Semi-synthetic oils are a rip off. Yes they are better than mineral oils, but only slightly. They are most times only 5-25% synthetic (and not 50% as u would believe when u hear SEMI). So rather use a good mineral or BEST case, a fully synthetic. They cost a lot more yes, BUT - and this is a fact - they are almost always the better option. There are a few exceptions. Old engines, engines lacking good tolerances or wherever there are seals that will be damaged by the synthetic oil. But as for the K3VET engines, they are all hungry for fully synthetic. You will extend their lifetime, they will get to operating temp quicker, they will run smoother etc...

I am typing this in a bit of a hurry, so i apologise if i made silly mistakes, please correct me if i did... and feel free to email/message me if u want me to expand/justify anything i said... hope this bit of info helps!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Nice Explanation !

2004 Sirion 1300 4 Track. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape much.

I have used Fully Sythetic oil for many years now.
I have used it in a Citroen BX Turbo Diesel (7 Years Old)
A Mondeo Turbo Diesel (8 Years Old - and still going strong as I know the now owner)
And now in two Sirions.

I used to work for a small Oil Company (Millers Oils)
The Chemist there said always use Fully Synthetic so I always did (I got it cheaper as well)

I would always suggest Fully Synthetic. My cars have run like a dream using it.

Nice Explanation.

Thanks for it.

Cheers, Bob F.

2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.

Pinking

Not had the box problem yet.
I'm guessing that if the car has had a bit of stick it ruins the fluid and causes the problem. Although it should be changed at 6 years i'm going to have my fluid done this service. Already done the coolant and brake fluid.

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

ATTENTION all YRV TURBO owners

Dave,

Our yrv turbo has the rattling noise too on cold starts as I have previously posted. I too have contacted Daihatsu UK to be fobbed off exactly the same as you.

In the past I have tried using 10W/40 oil and more recently tried engine flush and back to 5W30 oil. Nothing has made any difference. I took the car to the main dealer over 2 years ago when under warantee because of the problem but was told it was a "characteristic".

After research on here and the web, I have also removed the pencil filter, but it was perfectly clean as you would expect on a 22,000 mile engine that has had regular oil changes. When I changed the oil and restarted the car the noise was noticeable without driving it, until the oil pressure had returned. I have read reports of timing chain issues with the Toyota Yaris, which has the same engine. Perhaps you could try down this route rather than the DVVT issues.

The cause is certainly related to oil pressure, from the above and the fact that the noise only occurs 1500-1800rpm, it stops instantly above this as the oil pressure gets higher. I personally think the only solution is to replace the chain/tensioner/oil pump/ and dvvt valve to be sure, but due to the nature of this engine this is expensive.

If you want the Dai UK service manager to listen to our car we would be welcome. They would do well for customer relations to replace the items one by one to work out the exact cause. I would volunter for this.

It is the only point that spoils an other wise perfect car, and we are nearly at the point of selling it as there appears to be no solution, and every winter the car is unbearable.

PM me if you need more info.

Very interesting that you

Very interesting that you have tried just like me and even the oil has'nt changed anything??
I do think your right that the chain glide tensioner maybe the culpret. I have seen a Vauxhall Corsa that had a similar problem and one of the cams even jumped a tooth. On inspection the glide was plastic and was worn and grooved.
Feel free to contact Daihatsu UK Technical 0121 7474000 and express your concerns. Ask for John Oldershaw the Technical Manager, he's realy helpful and actualy seems to genuine in trying to sort problems out. He can arrange to send his Area Service manager to have a listen.
I was hoping they would pull my engine apart, replace the bits and examine mine to try to find a cause.

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Pinging is caused by fuel

Pinging is caused by fuel problems

use premium high octane fuel and an octane booster to see if it fixes the problem, if not then its not technically pinging

all cars have a pressure release valve at the oil pump that regulates the oil pressure, if you tighten this up then presto higher oil pressure

it will probably be quite hard to get to though...

try asking on daiclub, there are lots of experienced people on there who will probably have an answer

www.daiclub.com

I'm new so be easy but my noise is gone after this fix

Hi everyone new to this so bare with me, My turbo had all the symtoms you have described, and reading this i went down all the roads you have tried, in the end my

friend who is in the car trade put me in touch with a old man who is old school with cars after taking it out he told me what it was i couldn't belive how he was

right, it turn't out to be my aux belt and tentioner pulley. After removing the belt and pulley the belt was cracked and the pulley was as dry as a bone, plus pulley

was very shiney. So for now i have greast pulley bearing and ruffed up and fitted new belt and hey presto noise gone. hope this works for you as it did for me cheers

stu.

P.S My turbo is standard 42000 miles F.S.H. Also scan gauge 2 fitted no error codes showing

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

Great info

Great info daihatsu-stu!!
I said back in the original post -
http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/4650
that mine sounded a bit dry around the belts and pulleys and have wondered if i was barking up the wrong tree with the DVVT unit.
No doubt there is still a DVVT problem with other owners cars.
I bought a new serpentine belt a few months back after being quoted £116.85 by the dealers to supply and fit, just not got round to fitting it yet.
I assume the tensioning of it can be quite tricky to get right as Daihatsu UK had a recall a few years back for some that were done wrong at the factory.
I'm going to phone Daihatsu's area manager about your findings and see what he thinks, after all he did say he was interested in what might be the cause of all our noise problems.

Cheers, Dave.

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Cheers for that

Cheers for that buddy Smile , Done the job my self, dealer wanted £121 told them to stick that Biggrin , the price for the belt from them was £43 told them to stick that as well Biggrin , Found one at Part Co for £11.50. Job not to bad not much room but got the job done, Hands looked like they had been through a blender Biggrin .

Its been about 3 months and still no noise but would like some pic's of where the pencil filter is the only thing I can't find?

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

Well there you go then. !!

2004 Sirion 1300 4 Track. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape much.

I knew this site was worth the joining.
For this fix alone.

Funny - I had a ticking noise on my sirion last week (It just started from nowhere)

I did a quick check round and sure enough the belt was a bit slack.
Yep it is awkward but iv'e seen worse.

Tightend up a little - NOISE GONE !! Smile

Makes you wonder doesn't it.

Think I will replace just to be safe - and at £11.50p, well worth the effort.
Well done to all.

Regards, Bob F.

2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.

Yippeeeeeeeeee

I have just followed daihatsu-stu's solution of changing the aux drive belt for the rattle that our yrv turbo has suffered with for 3 years when cold at 1800rpm, and the noise has stopped!! The car is normal now!! The car was serviced by Daihatsu and even specifically looked at for this problem and no solution. If you are going to change your auxillary drive belt too, then the following might help. The original serpentine belt code is 4PK1715, this means 4 V peaks and the length is 1715. The motor factors I went to could only get a 4PK1720 (after incorrectly supplying 4pk1755 as listed for the yrv) but this can be adjusted through the tensioner. I also found the water pump was leaking very slightly, so I fitted a new one at the same time. If your coolant needs topping up occasionally then this could be where it is going, even though no drips under car as so slight. The old belt had a ridge on the edge and only very minor cracking when folded outwards, not visible on the car. The tensioner bearing had about 1mm play, so a new one may be the long term solution, unless this is normal?

Thanks to this forum and the old school mechanic, we can enjoy our turbo again.

Hopefully Daihatsu monitor these forums and can produce a technical bulletin so other cars can be fixed.

Ummm, i have a 4PK1755 in

Ummm, i have a 4PK1755 in the boot waiting for me to fit, Gates brand rarely get it wrong too?? Are you sure yours is the original to start with, the other sizes are usualy off the shelf where the 1755 is supposed to be unique to the YRV only.
I have spoken to Daihatsu Technical about the belt and tensioner that might be the cause of the engine noise problem. Yet again they claim of no cases and said how do i know if all our noises are the same without getting together for comparison?? Fair point but how many problems could there be that start around 20k miles and 1800 revs????

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Black Charade GTti, 89 White Charade GTti, 1998 White 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend in deed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance!!

---------------------------------------------------
Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

My belt is the 4pk1755 and its fitted

My belt is the 4pk1755 and its fitted. Fitted ok yes it was longer than the one that came off but there is loads of adjustment on the tensioner pulley noise still gone Smile and I'm so glad I done it.

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

The 4PK1755 was longer than

The 4PK1755 was longer than the original, but like you say was the one they supplied me for the yrv with air con. However when I fitted it there was too much excess for the tensioner to take up. I confirmed this with the long thin 10mm tensioner bolt, as this was all the way through the hex thread and the belt was still loose. The old belt was probably the original as I can't imagine it was replaced in the first 2 years from new when we got the car.

This is probably a case of a mid year pulley size change that the trade outside of Daihatsu are not aware off. Best to compare the new with the old when you get the old off. Also look round the old belt as you might be able to read the part number on the old belt under the dirt.

The 1755 cost £12.65, but the shorter 1720 was £15.70!!!, looked in halfords and they list the YRV as £3.50, but none is stock to check as this surely can't be correct?

Good luck, its worth doing.

halfords one wrong!!!

the one in halfords is wrong it was a vee belt don't know what it is for 1 litre may be? The 4pk1755 belt was ok tension bolt was half way up still got 15mm of bolt to tension belt.:)

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

update

just to add an update, its been over 2 months now since fitting the new belt, and not one rattle. The car is so smooth now its unbelievable. Although it is warmer now, so winter will be the real test.

Changed the Drive belt today

Changed the drive belt today, an awkward jod for those who, like me, have big hands! Biggrin

A huge difference! The car is silent and smooth now Smile

I can't believe that a £8.22 drive belt could make such a difference.

I used a 4PK1720 DAYCO - Poly Rib Belt from www.camskill.co.uk. Total Price £11.22 inc P+P.

Good service too, ordered on line on the evening of the 16th July and recieved here in the Highlands on the 18th July.

4pk 1720 is the correct belt sorry everybody

4pk 1720 is the correct belt sorry everybody i got it wrong even though the 4pk 1755 belt fitted it was to long, when i service the car replaced with 4 pk 1720 at £9.99 inc vat much better now still no noise and car running like a dream.

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

YRV 1.3 premium pack silver 01

YRV TURBO Black 04

Advised you of this repair Nov 08

Hi Dave,
Great to hear that the engine noise fixed, I suggested possible belt in Nov last year (see other thread). I think the high engine RPMs wear this thin belt quickly. Cheers Marcus

did any 1 get to the bottom

did any 1 get to the bottom of this rattling, ive just changed my oil again from 5-30 full to 10-60 fully just to see if it stops the rattling to NO avail.

what's this small filter people are recommending to clean Unknw

Filter.

There is a small filter which makes sure the oil going to the variable valves is completely clean. Many of us took it out to check it to see if there was a blockage to the valves thereby making the valves rattle. In all cases they were completely clean - no blockages at all.
The rattle is caused by the Serpentine belt not being tensioned up enough or needing replacing - Not an easy job as there isnt much room.
As for the filter - I have a workshop manual if you need one. Smile

Oil - You dont need 10/60. Unless you are going to beat the shit out of your engine at all times and use it like a racing car. 0/40 5/35 .
I use 0/40. The choice is yours. Smile

2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.

i did change the belt but the

i did change the belt but the rattle is still there, the oil was changed a couple of months ago but thought ide change it again and with the weather being so hot atm thought ide just try 10-60 castrol edge just to see if it made any differnce but it did not, Ill change the oil again in a month or so again, i dont want to tighten the belt too much what's the best way to tell if u got the right tension Unknw

Correct Tension.

Top of the belt - about a quarter of an inch max in middle of top of belt.

BELT UP !!

No not you. You can buy this stuff - Its made by comma.
You spray it on the belt as it is moving (Be bloody carefull ok)
I understand it can really quieten a noisy belt down.
About I tenner I believe. Smile

2003 Sirion Rally 4. And I love it.
Don't like the new shape Sirion much.Sorry.