Fourtrak rear wheel bearing


Hi I need to know the best method for removing rear wheel bearing off halfshaft (D reg 2.8 diesel) there appears to be a spacer in front of the bearing. I tried a press but had no joy, does it need warming up??? If so how do I fit new bearing on???

Not a diy job

You need to cut the bearing of with a cutting disc - easiest way, then you need to cut of the retainer (same way) thats been pressed previously onto the shaft, but the retainer needs to be put back on by someone who knows what they are doing and has a heated oil bath to be able to heat up the new one that is then pressed on after the bearing - like i said a bit of skill and know how required for this job, this retainer is IMPORTANT it stops the whole of the half shaft coming out of the axle with your wheel still attached - seen it happen/results of whilst vehicle moving on road - not pretty, there is nothing else that stops the shaft from pulling out except the bearing on the same part pushing against the back plate. hope this helps.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
youtube: Redfourtrack

Rear wheel bearings

Thanks, I take it Millner Off Road (Matlock) would direct me the best place to have it done?


Rear wheel bearings

Third World method, we are a bit behind in Cumbria.
Protect the outer oil-seal from heat, your wife's good wet towel is best, blow the retaining ring and old bearing of with your cutting torch.Clean the half shaft up, and bash the new bearing on, heat the retaining ring up the cutting torch will do, and thump this on,let cool,again using your wife's wet towel to protect the new bearing weld the retaining ring on, give a good clean slag etc and grease the bearing, make sure you hide the wifes best towel.
It works

Gas Axe

Yes, a wet towel and a gas axe are wonderful combinations, so usefull in many situations.

Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX

Can be done

Yes, cut the bearing and the retainer off with a grinder, cut allmost through and hit with chisel , if you cut all the way through DO not cut into the axle shaft, the retainer I heated in a home made forge/oven,not having a heated oil bath. I have this forge /oven for making metal sculpture work. ( a box like structure made fron wood burning stove fire bricks,in a angle iron frame, heated with a large propane torch.) The temp stated in the service manual is 150 C +- 15 C. surface colour straw yellow, DO NOT get it cherry red.I have a small 10 Ton hydralic press witch I adapted so as to let the axle hang down as per the service manual and pressing on the hub and not having any temp gauge had to make a numnber of tries, trying NOT to get it too hot, trial and error but it worked and have had no problems , Guess you could at a pinch just heat it up with a gas torch all over, but not sure what that or my method would do to the mettalugical properties of the retainer. I have been told you could just place it in the kitchen oven and heat to 150/200 C. ( Query-: Just how many garages have a heated oil bath) Some time it pays to think third world methods/ alternatives, though saftey must come to mind. Sure others must have sorted this problem with a DIY solution.

Many retaining collars can be released by welding , protect the shaft from weld spatter, an aplication of weld to the outside of the collar will heat,expand up the part sufficiently to allow hammering/punching off while hot, the same for internal bearing collars, hammer the bearing race out and weld in two places , on the bearing track after protecting the shaft/ houseing, and hammer/punch/press off , internal housing wait till cold the weld shrinks the bearing track a little allowing release. Crude but it works , Just think, even a hot air gun can work wonders on seized nuts, where you could not use a gas flame.

Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX


There is a DIY solution, that is to put the shaft into the freezer overnight if your freezer is big enough, or simply pack it with many many ice cubes to contract it. In industry we use liquid nitrogen, but the difference between the two methods in reality is negliable, except nitrogen is much quicker.

Heat the ring "slowly" with a soft flame to ensure an even heat right through it, many people heat them too quickly, the result is a hot outer and cool inner. Work quickly otherwise the combination of hot and cold soon neutralise themselves.

Hi all, I also had the same

Hi all,
I also had the same problem some years ago. Eventually I gave up and gave the job to a HGV garage up the road. Maybe I should have used wife's 'best' towel as Richard suggests !
Keep smiling.