Corroded fuel lines and removal of the fuel tank...help and suggestions please

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Hi everyone, hope you can help me. Im in the middle of getting some work done on the back end of my sporty to get it through an M.O.T but before i can do any welding the fuel tank has to come out. I first need to know how difficult it is to remove and re fit as i have already snapped 2 bolts just removing the plastic wheel arch cover! Has anyone done this job? What problems did you have to overcome and how did you solve them.
Secondly, my fuel lines are very corroded. I had an advisory for them on the failed M.O.T (it failed because of rust on the rear arch) but i dont think their going to last if i start moving them about. Can I replace them with rubber or plastic lines or would it have to be metal, like the original?
Any advice would be great as I have a love hate relationship when it comes to working on the sporty at the moment, not helped by having to work on it outdoors and having limited tools. I'm determined though to getting her back on the road so come on you sporty fans....get typing!!!

Bolted

There is only one real way as the original bolts will be so corroded that penetrating oils will not work, this is core drill them. Use a straight edge across the points of the hexagon and scribe between them, where the three lines intersect, centre pop them accurately, drill right through the bolts. Begin with a 3mm drill bit and progressively drill them until you have an 8mm hole through them if they are a 10mm thread, or 6mm if they are an 8mm thread. Undo them with a socket and the heads will shear off, this will allow you to peel the remaining 1mm of wall thickness out.
Tap the holes out with an appropriate tap and insert new bolts coated liberally with copper grease.

Fuel lines can be replaced with steel, rubber, or plastic pipes, my preferred option is to use copper, this needs to be mounted in plastic clips so it is isolated from the steel chassis. Microbore copper pipe and clips are available from plunbers merchants in rolls, it is easy to work, and will not suffer from future corrosion problems. If you can solder it would be wise to buy some olives and solder them on to the ends of the pipe to give the rubber flexy hoses something to pass over, and to give the fuel pipe clips something to bite against to prevent them pulling off.

Replacing the flexy hoses should be done with a butyl or neoprene based fuel pipe, this is durable, flexible in cold temperatures, and safe. This combination should ensure you have no future problems.

Great stuff!

Thanks for that. Covers pretty much everything. As you (Assasin) seem to answer most of my questions, do you happen to know if its possible to buy some kind of brake caliper service kit or would i have to buy a recon caliper?

Thanks again for all your help. Without this site, my sporty would have gone a long time ago.

New vrs old

you can get service kits for most calipers at car accesory shops,but you'll have to check the bores of yours first,as it's pointless trying to put new seals into a rusted bore.Try a breakers or fleabay.Also removing old studs/screws/bolts,I use a snap-on easy out both at home and work(aircraft)they cost £4 each,you drill a 1/8-3mm hole and wind it in,only snapped one in 5 years,they get most bits out saves a lot of drilling.

i use rubber too

To replace fuel lines on my old truck i used mainly rubber fuel hose and a bit of copper piping, it can be cable tied sensibly out of the way and can take a varying route easier than metal pipe, but thats me.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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