Timing belt change on 97 Fourtrak independent


Can anybody advise me on the best way to remove the pully on the end of the crank shaft? This is the big double pully that drives the alternator,water pump and power steering. I have put the car in 4WD. Chocked the wheels and finally bolted a bar between one of the holes in the pully and the engine mount for the power steering. Still the central bolt holding the pully on will not budge. I am using a 2' long 3/4" tommy bar with quite a lot of force (two handed). Is this bolt threaded in the normal direction? I changed one of these years ago and found it very easy but I can't remember which way the bolt undid. As a last resort I have doused it in WD40 and will try again tomorrow evening. I am reluctant to use heat as it is close to the oil seals.

Any advice would be much appreciated.


The bolt is located centrally and to ensure it is a good fit, it is a machined bolt which is a snug fit in the pulley.

The bolt is held in with compound on the threads, so requires heat to loosen the compound so it will break free of the threads as it softens.

You could have two problems, the bolt is rusted to the pulley, and the thread compound, heat the bolt gently and evenly and take care not to damage the oil seal. This will break the rust and soften the thread lock compound. If the seal is damaded all you need is the outer diameter, inner diameter, and the thickness and you can obtain one from bearing or engineers suppliers far cheaper than Daihatsu. It may be prudent to replace the seal as a matter of course anyway.

If possible, use a

If possible, use a compressed air 1/2" drive impact gun. It is far more effective torque than breaker bars, you won't need to chock ect and the impact action will break the lock-tight.

Timing Belt Change

I have a 93 Fourtrak TDX. I changed the timing belt in 2007 and encounted a similar problem to yourself. If the engine design in both models is similar then I held the crankshaft pulley with a pair of 24" stilsons (the Stilson jaws at 90o to the pulley gripping the edge of the pulley using the flange. I locked the stilsons if I remember correctly against the chassis member and then with a socket and additional leverage( a pipe over the 1/2 inch ratchet drive) undid the crankshaft bolt. I then used a set of Hydraulic pullers to remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft, make sure you retain the woodruff key.Refitting was the opposite but please make sure the crankshaft pulley is located on the cramkshaft correctly and the torque setting is achieved.

too much water

I used to go through a ford quite regularly which caused the crankshaft pulley to rust up just fine.

The bolt is conventional right-hand thread and the pulley is a parallel fit on the crank. If it's rusted up inside then invest in lots of plus-gas (lots better than WD40), skinned knuckles and brute force and hignorance.

I managed to undo the crank nut with a 3/4 inch square drive socket, extension, and t-bar with a couple of extension pipes either side and one person lifting one side and the other pushing down on the other. This applies equal and opposite torques to either side of the nut and counteracts the tendancy of the socket to tip over sideways (if you get my drift)

BTW .... do they still make 'Plus-Gas' nowadays, or has it been supereeded by some expensive shaky-shaky can rubbish Unknw