I got the judders....


My track has developed a squeaky chuckle type noise the other day. I reversed outta my drive and there was this "splintering noise" like a bearing shattering. When on the road it now judders severely , but the judder stops when i drop the clutch. The front prop has a little bit of play-but i dont think this is the problem....any ideas folks?
Ive had my 92K reg, 82,000m trak 6months, every week it seems to develop a new problem! AAAARRRGGHH!!

Yup it does sound like a UJ t

Yup it does sound like a UJ to me too...when u drop the clutch you are disengaging drive to the prop...thats why the judder stops...check your UJ's m8.
What else has happened to your track Unknw (just out of interest)

since Sept, recon starter

since Sept,

recon starter motor,
new starter motor,
immobiliser malfunction-locked out of car!,
new tyres (hard to get 30 x 9.5's),
back door lock,
new front springs and shocks,
rattles from the spring clamps on the rear,
new grille cos someone tried pulling off the old un!
and now the judders!
Its not that bad really now I look at it-and the engine seems sound enough and the temp stays rock solid. I just get a bit o' smoke when I rev the a**e off it!!
To be honest I dunno whether to keep it or get rid of it! Im sick of it being in the garage every other week!

Well the way I would look at

Well the way I would look at it is this...you have spent the money putting right what was wrong...

I am suprised you had to change the springs...my track is an 88 (E reg) and still on its original springs.

I have the rattling clamps on the back springs too..not a problem really.

What colour is the smoke... white = water blue = oil burn black =unspent fuel

I had a bit of smoke at start up...changed oil / filter / glow plugs
now everything is fine.
You have pointed out the engine seems fine...mine runs like a swiss watch and has done 150,000 +...these lumps are bomb proof if you follow the servicing intervals...e.g. change oil every 3000 miles.

There are a few grease points which should also be serviced at the specified intervals.

I cant see passed my old track..its a superb tow car..if you know where to go parts should not be too expensive...Millners etc

I think you have just had a few 'teething' problems m8...

Its getting to the age (milage wise) where certain componants will need changing...you wont regret hanging on to it if you decide too..they go forever.

Good luck


I agree with mike, now you have paid for all the new bits keep it and get your moneys worth.

Have to say i have only owned my sport for a few months but so far so good.



Black smoke mate when acceler

Black smoke mate when accelerating hard-but not all that much i suppose. Thinking of keeping it its cost me a small fortune so far! Thing is though will the expense will the repairs continue or stop? With me being as mechanically able as a daffodil its a case of not being able to assess the situation with the vehicle! Also noticed the 3 stage damper shocks have been replaced with standard jobbies as there are the connecting electrical wires visible on the chassis. But this shouldnt make much difference should it?

Wont make any difference at a

Wont make any difference at all m8...they were a gimmick anyhow...didnt do much at all..just make sure that you tape the ends of the redundant leads up..I put shrinkwrap around mine and a bit of tape.
If you decide to keep the vehicle get yourself a manual for £15 off Lurch who runs this site, it is invaluable ,I just could not imagine being without mine.Many jobs can be done on your track if you know how to hold a screwdriver or spanner....servicing it for example..you will save a fortune doing the simple things yourself.They are suprisingly easy vehicles to work on...everything is that bit bigger than a saloon or hatchback..and plenty of room to get underneath to get at components should you need to. Buy yourself a big jar of hand cleanser,roll up yer sleeves and have a go...you will be amazed at what you can do..it aint rocket science after all.
Keep as well clear of the garages as possible.
The manual gives you the service intervals for different jobs e.g the engine oil should be changed every 3000 miles..this means loosening off one nut under the car...doing this will help your engine stay healthy......
If you need help with anything you have now found the place to come to.
As for the smoke...try some STP diesel fuel injector cleaner...you can get it almost anywhere...garages,halfords,accessory places. You simply fill up the tank with fuel and empty the bottle of STP in the fuel tank....made a difference to my track ...satisfied the m.o.t. tester re: emmissions test anyhow.
All the best.

Cheers fella-really sound adv

Cheers fella-really sound advice. Got the UJs done and a oil/filter change for £100. Where are the grease points you mentioned at service intervals? Been around looking at other 4x4s today and most of em seem like sheds for the money-landrovers are expensive rustbuckets mostly! Dont see many good Daihatsus 2nd hand-which says something! The ones Ive seen today are older and in far worse nick than mine-and more money too!
So yep, Im gonna roll up me sleeves and have a bash-it must be wiser to spend the money on tools rather than at a garage!

There are only about 6 also g

There are only about 6 also grease nipples on the track m8 (least thats all I have found)...2 at each end of the longest steering rod..the one that goes from wheel to wheel. There are 2 on each prop to grease the UJ'S you have just had done...keep em well greased and you wont have to change those UJ's again as long as you have the car.They probably went cos the previous owners/s didnt grease em regularly.

What age is your Track m8 Unknw

There are a couple of things to watch out for on older vehicles.

Yup a good socket set,some spanners,a hammer and your away Smile

When I got my old bus it was a rusting heap...heres some of the stuff I've done over the last couple of years.

Replaced rear axle
replaced UJ's on main prop
replaced brake discs and pads on front/shoes on rear
rear wheel bearing and axle housing oil seal
new handbrake cables
Quite a few electrical problems sorted out..one of them major.
Inner tubes in tyres cos they kept going flat
Bushes and rubber grommets on the anti roll bar.
Both front wheel bearings.
Loads of welding to hold the rotting body together.
new shocks at front
new U bolts on rear springs.
Dropped fuel tank and repaired it...bloody holes everywhere.

I could go on Smile most of these repairs were carried out to get it through its m.o.t's.
But hey I paid very little for it..had it more than three years..its towed my large/ish caravan from John O'Groats to Land's End..I kid you not...I love it...but I reckon I will be lucky to get it through another m.o.t......the rot is getting too bad.It owes me nothing and I cant wait till I get another younger model.

Mines a 92 k Reg mate, with n

Mines a 92 k Reg mate, with no visible rust on it whatsoever! What are the things to look out for on the older tracks?

I agree totally with mike. I

I agree totally with mike. I have a G reg sportrak its supposed to have done 125000 miles, but the body work is immaculate. Since Ive had it everything has gone wrong. It had been standing for 6 months on a garage forecourt and it makes a hell of a difference. I think Ive come to the end of all the jobs (fingers crossed) and it's a wonderful motor. At first I would have done anything to have my suzuki back, but I wouldn't swap it for the world now. Persevere mate, and you wont regret it!

The arches have been painted

The arches have been painted underneath at sometime in the past-and im gonna give em a good clean and recoat with sealant when the weather warms up. No rust under the floorpans or carpets but ill have to check out the wiring loom and the fuel tank-thanks for all your advice fellas, its well appreciated!

No rust :)..you lucky sod :)

No rust :)..you lucky sod Smile

The older tracks do suffer from rust...but you seem to have got a good un..however I would get underneath and have a good look at the floorpan...whip the carpets out in the back and check there too.
Also under the wheel arches..notorious spot for rust to start..where the arches are connected to the body.

Also just check that the wiring loom that goes from just below (under the car)the front passenger seat to the rear lights etc is securely clippped onto the underside of the vehicle.The clips can corrode and the loom sags..it can rub against the chassis crossframe (just in front of rear nearside wheel. This happened to me and the loom chaffed through causing 11 of the 25 wires in the loom to melt together (major major headache). I eventually,after repairing the damage,lagged the loom in that grey plastic pipe lagging you can get from B&Q.
Keep a close eye on your fuel tank....crud and water get trapped up above it and the rot starts....its pretty easy to drop the tank if you ever need to.

Dont ever go to a main Daihatsu dealer for spares..they charge astronomical prices....use Millners (link under parts dealers at the top of the page)They are a great company..stock most things for tracks and get spares out to you by post very quickly.

Sounds like your car has been looked after m8..cept for greasing the UJ's Smile

I reckon with older vehicles you are always going to have to replace things like oil seals, wheel bearings and the like.The car will be getting to milages where these things begin to fail.
But as I said a lot of jobs can be done by yourself for the cost of the parts.