yrv turbo auto slipping

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i hav a yrv turbo with auto gear box. it slips out of gear took it to main dealer leicester n they hav no idea wot it is any ideas?

When you say it slips out of gear?

Hi new owner,

When you say it slips out of gear, when does this happen? When you first set off or when you are changing gears/on the move for a while? And when you say out off gear does it slip into 'Neutral' or slips into a lower gear?

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

as i put it in drive i get to

as i put it in drive i get to about 25 30 mph n it jus wont get any faster n makes a noise like on a manual car wen its not in gear.

Interesting I haven't come

Interesting I haven't come across that problem before. Have you tried manually selecting the gears with either the 'Steershift' function or using the auto gear selector? I am under the impression that the YRV turbo has a seperate set of electrics on the gear box that tells the main cars brain (ECU) that it needs to change gear. Failling that I am wondering for some reason the car is in limp home mode and there is a problem with one of your sensors causing this option to kick in, is the engine light showing on the dash? I am very surprised the Daihatsu dealership hasn't plugged the car into the diagnostics computer they have to see if any error codes come up.
The only other thing I can think of is that the box itself is broken. A long shot would be to see if there is any auto box fluid left, to do this there is a dip stick in the engine bay located back right (Shown in the owners manual, if you pull this out (like the oil dipstick) you should see a red substance showing.

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

checked it all

has fluid, light is on but that was the lamdba sensor. i did try manual it was exactly the same gets to top speed of 30 then jus picks no more speed up n sounds the same. they hav sent it to coventry so if i get to find out wot it is ill keep ya all posted. thanx again. x

You didn't buy this car off a

You didn't buy this car off a guy called 'Roy' by chance? The Lambda could have been the catalyst, a lot of people who have had the exhaust replaced with aftermarket or straight through have had issues here.

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

yrv turbo slippin out gear

hiya sorry its been a while the problem ended up bein there was a snap on the 3rd gear or somethin like that lol in the gear box 3rd gear was snapped in 2. its took 4 weeks to get sorted an a lot of money. thanks 4 all ur help on this 1. x

3rd gear snapped! Ummmm... I

3rd gear snapped! Ummmm... I wonder how that could have happened? Did the garage indicate how this may have been caused? Was there too little autobox fluid? Just curious as it would indicate there could be a bigger issue that Daihatsu are covering up.

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

mmmmm.........

I read somewhere, maybe on here, about a drum shearing off in the box. I wonder if this is the same thing. I remember reading it snapped on the weld or something. At least you got it sorted. I think it's the one thing turbo owners fear, the damn box giving up. I wonder how these failed gearboxes have been driven, have they had the living **** thrashed out of them and from cold? Mine had a lady owner then a 91 year old man, so i'm hoping it's not been abused! I ALWAYS let mine fully warm up before I open it up, and even then I just drive it normally most of the time.

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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

yes it was a clean break on

yes it was a clean break on the weld somaybe like i say the manafold has also gone bit of bad luck but hey am not givin up on her jus yet.

Thanks for the update

Sounds like you're having a run of bad luck. Hopefully once you sort the manifold out it'll be sweet as a nut. Has the maifold rusted away? Mine's very rusty where water runs onto it from the bonnnet scoop (common problem/crap design)

I have read somewhere (cant think where, maybe on here, can't find it) that another owner had a drum shear off on the factory weld, think that was 3rd gear related too.

I've had the famous D4 light flashing recently, not sure what the problem is yet. I hope you have no more problems. Again, keep us updated!

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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

yes it is rusty, really

yes it is rusty, really rusty! The gasket to the manifold is wot i'm waitin 4 not the actual manifold but its loosin power because of it. i think it was the same wid 3rd gear factory weld clean snap. thank u for replyin i'll def keep u posted. yes a bit of bad luck is wot i've had but keepin my chin up, my lowerin springs have arrived n i'm waitin for my breaks n discs so ill soon post some pics of her. Smile

Mine's well rusty

Mine's well rusty too.......

What sprigs you got and where from; are they Teins?

Cheers for the update. Where abouts you from, we are talking about having a meet soon, there's a few of us in the north west. More the merrier...........

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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

it seems ok 4 now but yes my

it seems ok 4 now but yes my fear is the same is theremore to it? the manafold has also packed up i hav been waitin 5 weeks 4 a new 1 that has had to ha ben ordered frm italy am not happy but i love my baby i blame my partner 4 not no in how to treat a lady properly he doesnt carress he thrashes lol.

If the fluid is at the

If the fluid is at the correct level, of the correct type, and is in good condition i would say it is the clutches slipping.

These will slip if they are worn or the brake bands are not working correctly because of insufficient hydraulic pressure. The best indication is the colour of the fluid, and how quickly it changes colour.

If it is bright cherry red it is fine.

If it is going from a bright cherry red to dull red or brown it needs replacing.

If it is black it is a sure sign the clutches are slipping, or the brake bands are shot.

If it is replaced and turns brown very quickly, and then black quickly it is a reconditioned gearbox which is needed. One old trick is for a seller to replace the fluid just before a test drive, it appears to be in good condition, but is not. When they do this they use the cheapest rubbish they can find, often it is not the right ATF for that model.

If all else fails have it in to an auto transmission specialist who can diagnose the problem, and possibly repair it.