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Hi i have a daihatsu f75 wich needs a new head gasget.
i need to know the removel seq of the head bolts&re fitting them+the tork settings.
great site lots of helpfull things on it.
hope u can help graham a new owner
Hi i have a daihatsu f75 wich needs a new head gasget.
i need to know the removel seq of the head bolts&re fitting them+the tork settings.
great site lots of helpfull things on it.
hope u can help graham a new owner
head gasget
By the way it is a 2.8 diesel turbo
Head gasket tightening/loosening sequence.
I have just done the job, but I won't be able to look at the workshop manual until Monday. If you can wait until then, I'll get the info.
S far as loosening the gasket is concerned, if I remember rightly, the manual didn't have anything to say on this, but I would suggset starting at the middle bolt and working in a roughly expanding circle outwards, say by a half turn at first and then fully loosening off.
There is one BIG thing to note when re-tightening the head gasket. This is not mentioned in the workshop manual either (naughty inscrutable Japanese gentlemen). With everything bolted up, the position of the cylinder head relative to the block is not defined by the tightness of the head bolts and the compliance of the gasket alone. The build up of turbo stay (connected to the block), exhaust elbow, turbo and exhaust manifold is also a rigid body between block and head.
So when tightening the head down, release the bolts between the turbo stay and exhaust elbow and tighten them up again after you have torqued down the head. The turbo stay has large clearance holes in it to accommodate the tolerance build-up in all the parts.
When you have done about 100 miles the head gasket will have relaxed, so will need re-torquing. Again you must release the turbo stay bolts before you re-torque the gasket. Also the valve clearances will reduce, so do these at the same time.
Finally tighten the turbo stay bolts. They are little buggers to get at, facing the rear bulkhead, so the only thing you can get at them with is a flat ring spanner. I put some copperease on mine so they would be easier to undo the next time I have to play this game. Don't lean on these bolts too much either, as I remember, the tightening torque is only about 14 Nm (about 10 ft lb).
head
great thanks for the quick repley.
i can wait till monday no problem.
saying that it over heated again today lol.
all the help u can give me will be well recived as i have
no experiance on this engine what so ever
with thanks graham
Overhating and head gaskets.
Don't be in too much of a hurry to whip off the head if your prob is just overheating.
First check that the radiator is not bunged up with flies or mud. A few flies won't matter, but if you can't see daylight through the rad, then air won't get through either.
When the engine is overheating, the other thing is to stop the engine and feel the BOTTOM of the radiator. If this is stink hot, then there is insufficient air getting through the rad.
The other thing is that the thermostat might not be opening as it should. The usual trick is to remove it, place it in a mug of boiling water and see if it opens. The spec is 10mm of opening at between 80 and 84 deg C.
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HEAD BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
OK, since I've got the book with me, I'll give you the head torquing sequence.
The best thing to do is to make a sketch of the head bolts as you look at the engine from the front of the vehicle.
There are 8 bolts outside the rocker box on the injector side of the head in a line from front to back. Starting at the front, label these bolts 14, 10, 6, 2, 3, 7, 11, and 15.
There are 5 bolts in line from front to back, directly under the rocker shaft. Starting at the front, label these bolts 17, 9, 1, 8, and 16.
There are 4 remaining bolts in the rocker box in line from front to back, above the exhaust and inlet ports. Starting from the front, label these bolts 13, 5, 4, and 12.
You have now drawn yourself a picture showing the tightening sequence for the head bolts.
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The torque setting is 117.7 +/- 9.8 Nm (Newton metres)
NOTE THAT BOLTS AND BOLT HEADS SHOULD BE OILED
To get foot pounds, multiply Nm by 0.738
I actually torqued my head to 70 Nm, then 95 Nm and finally 120 Nm.
I also tolled you a bunch of porkies in my last post ... looking at the book, the head un-torquing sequence is the reverse of the tightening sequence I have just given you. I'll edit my previous post.
head
thanks a lot rf man thats a great help.
i will be doing it very shortley as i,m sure it is the head as i have checked the rad.
p.s i will let u know how it went
graham