yrv turbo boost pressurre

Submitted by mordusy on

Forum: 

what's the standard boost pressure Unknw

what's the highest boost pressure before boost cut and safe Unknw

what's the highest safe boost pressure with a FCD Unknw

I might have missed something

Submitted by Jpor on

I might have missed something on the programming of the XGauge or something? Definately not seeing a 3.2BHP but 32BHP, So can only presume in the programming of the XGAUGE this sets the decimal point correctly?

As for the exhaust system I have you can still get them from here:

http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/ProductItem-86.aspx

I bought mine a few years back off E-Bay for £380 brand new. Only downside is that it's for the M211G Model (4WD Turbo-R model, only available in Japan), there fore you are best getting some powerflex EX005 Replacement Exhaust hangers, or the back of the exhaust will knock Sad

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

YRV 4wd & 2wd exhaust

Submitted by myviturbo.com on

My own measurements of the stock YRV exhaust pipe is around 2inch ~ 50mm. The Blitz YRV 4wd exhaust system is 50mm in pipe diameter as well. Not much of an upgrade except a freer flowing muffler.

You can get a comparison with the other exhaust manufacturers specification for the YRV here
http://www.myviturbo.com/2012/03/best-exhaust-pipe-muffler-size/

Hope the information helps.

Daihatsu YRV Turbo powered - myviturbo.com

wow expensive.

Submitted by flumperboy on

i had a hipower on my colt czt sounded the end and it poped and banged and it was the exhaust as all the others were smooth sounding,
i dont think i be buying one of those just yet,
i have got my new blow off valve's
gonna try it on the yrv before i sell the hks ssqv


got 3 to try lol
these are as rare as yrv exhausts lol

boost taper

Submitted by myviturbo.com on

hi guys.. i drive a Japanese domestic YRV turbo powered car.. just wondering if you guys notice this

floor the throttle and the boost climbs to peak boost (0.9 bar on mine) and it gradually tapers down to about 0.6 bar as the RPMs go higher. do you guys face this issue? or does it hold the boost all the way?

I've fitted a manual boost controller.. and what happened to me was the turbo spooled noticeably quicker, but I had partial throttle full boost. when i stepped on 1/3 of the pedal, boost would go up all the way to 0.9 bar and because the car is in closed loop it would chug as if there was a fuel cut, i figured if i kept that up i would torch a piston.

some interesting facts about YRV in case you're interested
http://www.myviturbo.com/2011/10/daihatsu-yrv-k3-vet-turbo-r-specification-differences/

Daihatsu YRV Turbo powered - myviturbo.com

yes it is normal and correct

Submitted by Pocketrocket on

yes it is normal and correct for boost to taper a little, although mine does not quite as high as 0.9 when i floor throttle.

The job of the oem boost solenoid is to bleed air away from actuator which gives more boost initailly when you floor throttle (to increase torque and get car moving faster), then as revs rise the solenoid bleeds less air so boost tapers off.

What you experienced with manual controller does indeed sound like the fuel cut, One you can exceed the ECU max boost limit for 1-2 seconds then the ECU will activate the shutdown.

The YRV FCD i sell on ebay will eliminate the fuel cut.

For manual boost controller, Really you need to remove hose to solenoid and use controller only, then you should find boost does not taper as much.

You may find a more basic bleed valve works better if your manual controller is a ball and spring type it maybe too aggressive, A normal air only bleed valve sometimes works better.

Also bear in mind the turbo on YRV is small, so boost tapering at higher revs is sometimes impossible to cure completely if the turbocharger is not big enough to flow the required air at a high boost.

Boost taper can also be a problem if the exhaust system is too restrictive.

its possible..

Submitted by myviturbo.com on

I doubt it is fuel cut, as I don't face this issue on wide open throttle. it *only* occurs during partial throttle. of course our cars are slightly different, as my Japanese domestic model has speed cut at 180km/h.

I am guessing its happening because I am using a ball & spring manual controller and its too aggressive as you've said. during partial throttle (~20% throttle), the car is still in closed loop and it tries to maintain a stoich air fuel ratio.. but the boost is way more than it expected.. technically running lean in boost and the car pulls timing to compensate.. just a guess. the car has Greddy E-Manage on it. wondering if anyone else face this issue.

by the way, I read that UK YRV's meter panel changes colours as the revs go up.. would be great if you can make a video and share so we can have a look at it as the JDM ones does not have this feature.

Regarding the boost taper, check this video out, you can see the car is holding steady boost. I am trying to track the owner down and confirm if he is using the stock YRV turbo or he upgraded.
http://youtu.be/LekafdX1UYU

The bleed valve may be an alternative. I am looking at other options such as the Apexi AVC-R or HKS EVC 6 with throttle and gear based boost control.

My current build, everything is stock except:
Apexi Power Intake Open Port air filter
Free flowing 60mm exhaust after the catalytic converter to a Skunk2 muffler
Greddy 31V front mount intercooler
Synapse Synchronic diverter valve

Daihatsu YRV Turbo powered - myviturbo.com

Yep noticed the boost

Submitted by Jpor on

Yep noticed the boost increased after fitting the Blitz Nur-SPec-R exhaust. Boost gauge has shown 1.1 bar at max output before now with the 2 O2 sensors.

Which O2 sensors do you guys use? Now have the NTK (NGK) one now fitted to mine which apparrently supposed to give a btter Fuel and performance benefit.

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

The exhaust gain is mostly

Submitted by Pocketrocket on

The exhaust gain is mostly just due to the silencers being straight through type. The standard exhaust bore is large enough to support over 200bhp, but the silencer (certainly the bigger main one) are baffled type creating bit more backpressure. If you are on a budget you can just cut the standard silencers out and fit straight through ones from someone like Jetex, about £30-50 each box.

You can run any octane , If the octane is too low and detonation is picked up by the knock sensor then the ECU will take action and reduce the timing. Of course if the timing is optimised for JDM octane then you wont be getting the full power potential from using 95Ron, but it will no do any harm.

02 sensor, it either works correctly or it doesn't, A change of sensor brand wont change a thing in terms of engine performance, unless of course old one was faulty and check engine light was on.

Remember the YRV ECU boost control is programmed to allow different boost in each gear, and boost tapers off at high revs. For example, have steer switch on and put foot down to the floor at about 50mph in 3rd and watch the boost peak figure, then select 4th and see the sudden higher boost.

Interesting... SO Nathan what

Submitted by Jpor on

Interesting...

SO Nathan what would you opt for if you had the chance?

- Jap ECU?

or

- PiggyBack ECU mapped and tuned to what you have on the car?

I personally would opt for the ECU Piggy Back to make the most of the mods... Smile

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Best to look into remapping

Submitted by Pocketrocket on

Best to look into remapping the standard ECU, Likely can be done using the OBDII port and some custom written mapping software which ECU guru Rob Barnes from the GTti owners club should be able to do.

If he cant do it with OBDII, then a new piggyback board can be made to fit inside the factory ECU with a USB connection wire coming out the side, Which is what Rob has recently done to the GTti ECU.

All sort of wonders are now possible, including switchable maps whilst driving, datalogging, launch control and full throttle gear changing (obviously not valid for automatics)

Bob and I saw Rob giving a demo of his "Xenomorph" GTti modified ECU at Japfest show, was quite amazing, He plugged it into Peter Lee's Daihatsu and had it running in seconds with his laptop connected, demonstated changing the fuelling and timing maps and you could hear the engine responding with idle speed and even the sound.

It's something he hopefully can look into for the Sirion/YRV. Although he is going to first need a spare ECU, which I don't have.

However, tempted not to worry about any ECU mods. As I have mentioned before, A large boost increases can be done and be perfectly safe if a water/methanol injection system is fitted. Very simple and easy kit just a few hours work to fit. Boost can then be raised at least 5psi (probably more), without any extra fuelling needed.

FCD + water/meth + higher boost and I can see 160-170bhp being possible reliably.

To make more power than that, I think it's expecting too much from the standard turbocharger, It's just too small. Custom turbo no real problem, Just the expense of the turbo, and a custom made manifold /exhaust downpipe.

It just depends how far you are prepared to go and at what cost!

And the limit of the gearbox has got to be fairly low.

The engine itself should have potential for 300-400bhp if you throw enough airflow (boost) and fuel at it. Sounds crazy but that's what some of the 1.3 Toyota Starlets are now making and the engine design is much less capable than the more advanced K3-VET.

Thanks for the information on

Submitted by Jpor on

Thanks for the information on this Smile

I was also under the impression that the ECU would also limit the top speed of the car to 112MPH? Due to the Japanese 'Gentlemans Agreement' clause on BHP and Speed?

I beleive a lot of Toyota Glanza Owners replace the CT9 Turbo they have with a TD04 one to attain power upto 300BHP, but they do have to uprate the pistons to Forged ones, which I beleive the YRV engine already has. So basically would you say the Daihatsu YRV Turbo is basically the next Gen Toyota Glanza?

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Yeah I think certainly the

Submitted by Pocketrocket on

Yeah I think certainly the JDM ECU would have the speed limiter, And i guess that is built into the ECU software and not some seperate box. Although 112mph more than enough in my opinion! Perhaps it could be tricked by modifying the output signal sent from the speedo to ECU.

More power is all about improving acceleration for me.

Yes the starlet/glanza does have chocolate pistons which need uprating to cope with big power.

YRV engine is far stronger, I think the pistons are semi-forged which is good enough, Pretty sure there is oil spray bar squirting oil onto bottom of the pistons to help keep them cooler, Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket as standard.

Plus the variable valve system.

yes ive located a p30 ecu

Submitted by mordusy on

yes ive located a p30 ecu should have it next month Biggrin
mines currently got a p59 ecu which is 0.6 standard with 2 sensors, the p30 is single sensor but alot of people fit them with no mods and all is well.

Dont see the point in having a piggy back ecu when i can get a p30 ecu for £200 and its plug and play Biggrin

That sounds interesting. But

Submitted by Jpor on

That sounds interesting. But dont forget the following may apply:

- The ECU will be geared towards the standard Japan 100 RON Fuel (So I take it 99 RON Vpower or Tesco Super and Octane booster is on your list?)

- The exhaust system is still the achilies heal, unless you have now changed this?

I take it you know of other UK owners who have this fitted?

I know COPEN owners have an ECU upgrade option from D-Sport in Japan, but there is a reason for it not working in the UK for some reason....

Good luck, be interesting to see how you get on with this Smile

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

ive allways used shell vpower

Submitted by mordusy on

ive allways used shell vpower in all my turbo cars, the exhaust still has not been done, the car still needs alot of work to bring it up to scratch as the previous owners were not kind, so atm im just gathing bits and pieces when/where i can.

Okay Doke. Can only go off

Submitted by Jpor on

Okay Doke. Can only go off other car forums such as the Subaru one, where this topic has come up time and again about ECU swaps and people with Jap Imports who need to use a higher octane fuel to stop knocking and detonation issues with the engine.

Keep us posted Wink

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

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