Forum:
I bought a very cheap 2000 Terios which needed fettling. Running too rich, rough idling, misfire, loss of power and some welding to be done, but at least it was CHEAP!
Found the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor was disconnected, so refitted that and the rough idling stopped. Took the air filter cover off and the filter was well and truly fubar, so fitted a new one.
It starts from cold and runs perfectly, but as soon as the temp gauge moves it begins to hesitate and misfire when you press the accelerator pedal. Floor the pedal and the misfire goes after around 3000 revs. Once warmed up the dashboard temperature gauge holds firm at the centre of travel.
Have fitted a new set of spark plugs and bought a single coil which has hopped along all four cylinders in turn with no change, so they appear to be OK. All the four old spark plugs were sooty black.
Anyway, have scanned the internet for possible answers to help me and lo and behold this seems to be a VERY common fault with these cars and the advice is to change this, that and the other until the problem goes.
I have an OBDII hand held scanner and I cannot find an OBD port to hook up to, so in the dark where to go next with this one.
Thanks for your thoughts Bob.
Thanks for your thoughts Bob.
It has the K3-VE engine and I have replaced the pre cat O2 sensor with a new Denso one. To be honest I haven't looked to see for myself if it has a post cat sensor installed or not. I was under the impression that the second sensor isn't as active or critical as the pre cat sensor and only monitored if the pre cat sensor was working or not working.
I also forgot to mention the exhaust had a hole in it after the cat and just before the middle section flange so fitted a Gun Gum metal bandage and a bit of paste which stopped the blowing completely. The hole was well after the cat and a second O2 sensor
I have spent a very long time
I have spent a very long time in some painful positions on the floor with a torch looking for this mythical diagnostics plug point and I can't find it either
Some writers suggest it''s behind the glove box compartment, others say it's in the engine bay on a bulkhead but no sign of it there either.
I will try as you suggest in changing the post cat lambda as well and see where I go from there.
If I can get the engine running sweetly then I have two welds to do and it will be a tidy little run around
You have not read Bobs last Message Correctly.
He has put in an Addendum. He has found the Diagnostic Connector.
Look in Image Galleries. Select Technical. and there you have it.
By For Now.
I did see Bob's add on post
I did see Bob's add on post Top Cat.
It has been pouring with rain all day here, plus had other jobs to do, so not inclined to investigate further the location of the OBD connector as in Bob's picture, although I was pretty thorough with the torch the last time I was scrambling around in the driver's footwell but could have missed it.
Rain or no rain I will have another look tomorrow
Bob F, you are a star.
Bob F, you are a star. Thanks to your photo of the OBD's connector location I have found it and plugged my reader into it.
It has two codes logged; P0130 and P0133 Bank 1 Sensor 1 malfunction.
Strange, because this is the brand new pre cat Denso one that I fitted very recently. It was a bare wire sensor so had to connect the original plug to it and I made double sure the cable colours matched up before crimping them.
Maybe I haven't made a good connection inside the crimp terminals, or do I need to erase those codes and drive the car until a fresh code(s) appears?
Erased the stored codes now.
Erased the stored codes now.
Thought I would check the crimp connections were OK, so took the sensor out and found the crimps were fused together. Prised them apart and dabbed a meter onto the plug and crimps to find I had circuits - not good and presumably they were shorting when they were in a clump together. It is the shrinkable sleeves that have melted with the heat, so scratching my head now what to insulate and isolate them with so it doesn't happen again.
The other thing I didn't have was the MIL lamp coming on, even when starting the engine when the dashboard lights do a self test routine. Took the dial assembly out to find there isn't a bulb that illuminates the warning lamps, so I presume they are LEDs soldered into the PCB behind the dials.
Still farting and spitting a
Still farting and spitting a bit when I took it on a short test drive.
Anyway, I have written down what the scanner says to see if there is a clue in there:
Coolant 88.00 degrees
ENG SPEED 1750rpm
STFT B1 -9.2%
LTFT B1 -44.54%
MAP 29kpa
IAT 38.00
TPS 3.92
O2SL 11 12
O2S 11 9.38
O2S 12 0.710
SHRTFT 12 28.12%
I kept the engine at 1750 rpm because below that it was a bit lumpy
Hope the weather smiled on
Hope the weather smiled on you Bob!
Nope, haven't investigated the second sensor yet but will do.
The wife's CR-V driver's window packed up so had my pockets emptied buying a new regulator mechanism for it.
Bob, can you shed some light on the OBD readings? The wretched thing came without any instructions at all so for an amateur mechanic like me it might as well be written in Mandarin.
The LTFT B1 -44.54% is the long term fuel trim and I would hazard a guess that figure is way off beam.
These are the numbers I assume are to do with O2 sensor behaviour, so which is which and what is what can I ask?
O2SL 11 12
O2S 11 9.38
O2S 12 0.710
Thanks in advance for your kind help