Over heating


Anyone know why my fourtrack when towing the temperature guage seems to be in the hot instead of normal Im only towing a light caravan and speeds of 60mph and does anyone know where I can get some sidesteps and roof bars from. Thanx


If you try www.formula4x4.com you will find sidesteps there, I don't know about roof bars, but if you contact them they may be able to help or give you advice. Good luck Robin
P.S. If you order there catalougue it gives you more details of there products and fitments

I tow a fairly big caravan wi

I tow a fairly big caravan with my 88 trak...the temp only rises when pulling up steep gradients or when its bloody hot weather..as has been the case of late...it never runs HOT...just a little hotter.
If your trak temp is running with the needle at max..then I would agree you have a problem..if the needle simply goes up a bit but then recovers..then I reckon that would be par for the course..you could of course try flushing out the radiator..just to check things out..lots of crud can get lodged in them over the years.

Flushing usually isnt enough.

Flushing usually isnt enough. You can do this yourself, if you have the gear, or take it to a radiator shop. Get them to remove the BOTTOM tank, and ream the cores out. It is amazing how much [email protected] will come out. I ran Glycol coolant exclusively after a recore a few years ago. Recently, when my temp started to rise, I took both tanks off the radiator, and more than half the cores were at least partially blocked. Reaming them corrected the rise in temp. Mine now sits on about 1/3 regardless of ambient temp, speed, or load being towed.

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
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All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

4trac overheating

Mine does much the same. I find that when on the motorway at any thing over 70, it gets hot quick, and when pulling a heavy load, etc.
You could check your rad cap. Apparantly, thats whats wrong with mine. If the rubbers shafted it would cause this.

98 TDX indipendant

Ive had the same problem when towing. Ive cooked my engine twice now had the rad checked and flushed first time and passed as OK when I cooked it a second time I took no chances. Ive fitted a new three core rad supplied by Gordon Dewhurst and replaced the old viscous fan with a kenlow electric one. It still gets hot when going fast on motorway or towing but not as bad as before so finger crossed. This must be a design fault with the model if so many of us are having the same problem.

One problem I've had on sever

One problem I've had on several later Daihats is that the viscous fan gives up the gost. On all 3 the temp was fine in the winter, and when running without a trailler. Pesumably cous the rads are so oversived to begin with, ram cooloing is sufficiant under normal driving conditions. Simple way to find out if yours is knackerd, is when the engine is running hot open the bonnet and try to stop the fan turning with a bit of wood. Be resonibly gentle, if the fan is only free wheeling it will stop without to much fuss. If this happens the fan is not working. Unbolt it take it out of the car. Then split the two halves of the viscouse housing. You will get oil running out, don't worry the thing was bu%%ered anyway. Now find some old rubber car mat or such, cut a pice to size and sandwich it into the middle of the viscouse housing. Reatatch to the enine. You've just reinvented the solid mecanical fan. Hay presto, no more over heating. I've done this to 2 F80's and an indipendent 2.8TD. One of the F80's even had an electric fan a previouse owner had installed to rectify the heating problem. The bodged mecanical fan did a far better job.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.