Forum:
the brake pipe which goes from rear wheel cylinder to wheel cylinder has a hole in it and therefore i have no brake pressure, im gonna replace it myself but the brackets which hold the pipe to the diff are rusted off.
(as long as i can get the old pipes out of the fricking cylinders - failing that ill get the whole cylinders off and cut the pipe to remove it and soak it in wd40 - FAILING THAT ill have to get new cylinders!)
any ideas how to install new pipe brackets or where to get them?
Jubilee clip a home made bracket.
Why use welded brackets? Get a new brake pipe made at your local motor diy shop ... pennies. Provided the fluid pipe is secure and not pinched it should pass MOT. Use jubilee clips or stiff wire to secure home made brackets onto the diff. I also suggest you buy new cylinders. Go to a motor diy shop rather than daihatsu. Cylinders are about £10 each - not worth the battle detaching or repairing the old ones!
PS ... you must fully slacken the handbrake or the rear brake drums will not come off.
two new cylinders are on the
two new cylinders are on the way, the other two are shot, the brake pipe fittings and the bleed nipples are rusted beyond belief and ill have to cutthem off tomorrow.
ill slacken the cabling right off and remove the cylinders, got new ones cheapest was £19 each. quoted £39 from daihatsu. shocking.
ill be videoing everything and putting it on youtube, links to follow. thanks everyone once again for great advice. man i love this site!
paul w
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
Brake Pipe
I wouldn't worry about the brackets but I'd use long cable ties to secure the pipe to the axle. These are flexle and wont rust. Use copper pipe to save future problems or a copper alloy mix. If you use a proper brake pipe spanner you will stand a better chance of getting the connectors out of the cylinders. Unless you know the cylinders areleaking and can get the connectors out it will save a bit of work.
The brake pipe spanner is like a ring spanner with just one face removed to allow it to pass over the pipe and use all but one face of the connector to undo it. If it is going to come out this is the onlyspanner thetwill get it out. Open ended will round off the faces of the connector if it is tight or seized. if of cuse the connector cannot be removed then you will have no option but to replace the cylinders.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Brake pipe nuts
If you're getting new pipes made up anyway, then just cut the old pipe flush with the nut as it goes into the wheel cylinder and use a ring spanner or socket & ratchet to undo the nut.
Before fitting all the brakes pipes check that the bleed nipples will undo from the wheel cylinders because if they snap you'll need to get new cylinders anyway.
Working with brake fluid is a really messy job as the brake fluid gets everywhere and is difficult to wipe up so keep a bucket of water nearby to dip your hands & tools in, the water will absorb the brake fluid and then you can just dry with a paper towel. Also clean up any brake fliud spills with a water soaked rag, especially from paintwork.
hope this helps, Daz
when you say fully slacken -
when you say fully slacken - does that mean not just letting the handbrake off but actually slackening the cables somewhere?
the motor manual mentions none of that.. just to use some m10 bolts in case i cant get it off..
the bolts the hold on the wheel cylinders are rusted, too looks like ill be birning or cutting them off. are they only threaded on the cylinders or on the hub too?
paul
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
Hope this helps.
The drums are adjusted by automatic adjusters. They adjust when ratcheting the handbrake. Due to wear from the shoes inside the drum, a small lip forms just inside the drum. The autotmatic adjusters hold the shoes onto the drums - the lip prevent the drums being pulled from the hub. Lowering the handbrake does not slacken the cable sufficiently to free the adjusters from the drums.
On the handbrake cable you will find an adjusting nut/thread which tightens the handbrake cable. [I recollect its either concealed inside the handbrake plastic shield, or found beneath the car - but its identity is obvious when seen]. You will need to fully slacken the handbrake cables to release the brake adjusters.
Also note that the drum often rusts onto the hub. Can be a pig to remove. If rusted soak penetrating oil into the wheel nut holes and arround the hub centre ... leave overnight. If you have a 3jaw puller use it! Tapping the drum with a rubber hammer/hammer onto a piece of timber also helps but do not hit too hard.
When refitting:
1. re-ighten the handbrake cable.
2. sit in the car and ratchet up-down-up-down the handbrake lever. Keep going until the handbrake tightens at which point the brake adjusters have reset the brake shoes. Then readjust the cable so the handbrake holds at on '3 to 4 clicks.'
Brake slave cylinders.
Held with bolt that passes through the backplate. The bolt fits thought backplate clearance hole and threaded into the slave cylinder. Removal of head of bolt and cylinder should fall off.
PS ... when bleeding the system you must bleed the longest run first. then the next longest .... and shortest is done last.