Resistor for heater blower motor, Sportrak?


Anyone know where the resistor for the heater blower motor is on a Sportrak........the one for the heater motor speeds?

Remove the glove box cover re

Remove the glove box cover restraints, and allow it to fall away. Behind, you will see the fan housing and air duct - the resistor pack is the black connector-looking thing mounted on top with 2 ST screws.

By posting this, I guess yours - like mine a week or so ago - has gone. There are 3 simple wire coil resistors mounted on it and unless you have the patience of a Carlisle United supporter, you will quickly become fed up of trying to match the values by winding wire coils yourself. It's best to replace them with heavy duty wire-wound resistors from any specialist radio/electronic shop. (The motor draws around 6 amp, so carbon film ones will be useless.) A good broad end on the soldering iron when doing the repair will be invaluable.

Now, the values..They are in the manual given as values across two terminals of the unit. BUT the resistance given across one of the stated set of terminals is in fact the sum of two resistors in series, so be careful. If the small one is blown as mine was I fitted a 1.2r in it's place and it works a treat.

Dave with a Sporty

Dave with a Sporty

Thanks Dave, the motor doesn

Thanks Dave,
the motor doesn't work in the first (slowest) position, was it this on yours?
I'm gonna take it off today and have a look.

Slow fan speed not working

Mine doesn't work on slow speed either, never has while i've owned it. Doesn't bother me much, I've just got used to using the 3 faster speeds. If its a simple-ish fix then post it on here and I might have a go with mine!

Cheers, Good luck!

I've just done mine, easy job

I've just done mine, easy job.
As Dave says, remove the two screws that hold the glove box on and lift the glove box away.
On top of the big plastic pipe is a black four wire connector, pull off the connector (press the lug in to free it) then remove the one (on mine) screw and withdraw the resistor block.
There are three coiled resistors, the small thinnest one is for no:1 speed.
I unsoldered this then put a 1.1 ohm resistor in its place.
Works spot on now.
Thanks again for the advice Dave.

Glad it worked out, Frank.

Glad it worked out, Frank.

FYI all, The values between terminals are....

L1 - M1 1.20r Fan speed 1

L1 - M2 1.88r Fan speed 2 (THIS is the place where 2 are in series, so something around 0.60r for this does nicely)

L1 - M2 0.32r Fan speed 3 (This is a nice fat one that I doubt will give problems)

Fan speed 4 is direct. (unless stepped nearer, or at, the motor.)

Dave with a Sporty

Dave with a Sporty

Dave, what year is your sport

Dave, what year is your sporty?...I think the resistor block on mine is different to yours?
If the L1 resistor on yours blew, and L2 is wired in series, then wouldn't fan speed 2 not work as well?

Its a 1995. TBH I can't re

Its a 1995.

TBH I can't remember if #2 was working or not - I just removed the unit when the missus complained that the fan seemed to have packed up, after reading about it here previously.

Dave with a Sporty

Dave with a Sporty

Heater Switch Repair

As mentioned before, the unit holding the resistors is mounted on the top of the heater duct box centre left behind the glove box on my 1995 Sportrak ELXi.
Fixed with a small philips screw and attatched to the wireing by a removable plug. Do not forget to squeeze the catch in or you will snap it off when pulling the plug off the unit

The three resistors are just small wire wound coils of wire and they are suspended in the airflow of the heater box to keep them cool.
The smallest is about 10mm long by 4mm diameter, and very fine wire.
If any of them have a break in the wire they will be broken.
When you pull out the unit containing the bank of resistors, you can then pull off the wiring harness plug, and work on the unit in a vice.

Hold the plug firmly in a small vice and de-solder position 1 and position 2 resistors, then clean up the lugs ready for the fresh solder. As mentioned before the smallest resistor burns out first. I lost resistor one and two.

You will need three Ceramic 1.0R wire wound resistors rated
at 7 watt. They must be wire wound and 7 watt, mine were from RS and about 2" long x 1/4" thick. When you solder them in place you need a good quality hot soldering iron and they should stand up verticaly, which allows you to feed them into the airbox, and the airbox air stream.They should be inboard of the outer edge of the plug unit otherwise they will not feed back into the heater box.

Looking at the original largest resistor, which should be still intact, move around to the next (end)position and solder two resistors in parellel and the last position has just one resistor soldered onto both the lugs.
"Parellel" is also called piggy back, so with two resistors soldered in parellel, each lug should have two wires attatched, one from each resistor.
Place the fixed unit back on the plug, and test heater switch.
If ok re-fit glove box.