Forum:
Well I am now the very proud owner of my first sportrak, although the brakes work, (if brake pedal pushed hard) they are sooo spongy, I have bled the system, and have taken of every wheel, checked all aronmd the disks and the pipes, checked everywhere for leaks and found NONE!!!
As I'm NOT a mechanic can anyone possibly tell me what i should check for?
By the way my car is in san remo green and I'm told thats a rare color is this true?
Thanks people.
Regards
JEFFREY
It sounds to me like it could
It sounds to me like it could possibly be the brake servo if theres no leaks anywhere.
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N-Reg Daihatsu Sportrak Midnight. A-Bar, K&N, 100Watt Spots, Custom S/Steel Wheel Cover, S/Steel Sillbars, more to follow!
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If all you say is done, this
If all you say is done, and you have stripped and cleaned the calipers and checked full piston operation throughly this is without doubt the master cyl/servo unit. I guess what you are saying is that you have a fair amount of pedal travel before a 'bite' and then they are not as sharp as you like. Try and find out the part no. to see if any other Daihatsu/Toyota shares the same unit before paying anything (a slower moving stock part from a rarer vehicle may well be cheaper, and you may be able to get a remanufactured part) They are totally awful to try and repair yourself.
IF it is like anything else I've done, then it's around an hours work - a cotter pin will hold the arm to the pedal, and the nuts securing the unit will be behind the pedal assy on the bulkhead. It will pull out in a single lump - provided you disconnect the brake pipes in advance! Use DOT 4 fluid.
Dave with a Sporty
Dave with a Sporty
Spongey breaks. Daihatsu. G
Spongey breaks. Daihatsu. Goes with the teritory. They feel like there doing nothing, then you just stop. If there working and there's no leaks, don't worry.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
I personally have to disagree
I personally have to disagree. My Sportraks brakes are excellent and you can definately feel when you use them and my pedal doesn't even touch the floor. I still reckons it sounds like a Servo problem and if yours are the same u might have a problem to!
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N-Reg Daihatsu Sportrak Midnight. A-Bar, K&N, 100Watt Spots, Custom S/Steel Wheel Cover, S/Steel Sillbars, more to follow!
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The brakes are fine on my spo
The brakes are fine on my sporty also!
It sounds like your master cylinder could be faulty, take the top off it and get someone to pump the brake pedal hard, if there are signs of tiny bubbles, the seals are leaking internally, therefore losing pressure.
Also it's possible you have some cheap front pads in which have 'baked' and are not biting the disc, they become glazed and fade when braking.
Frank.
Another couple of things to c
Another couple of things to consider. Correct adjustment of rear brake shoes. If you have too much travel, then the pedal will feel spongy. Also, mud/dust/crud in the rear drum can also cause poor braking. In extreme cases, where the rear drums have been resurfaced in a lathe, the radius of the inner surface of the drum no longer matches the radius of the brake shoes. In essence, only the centre of the shoes makes contact with the drum. With time, and wear of the shoe, more shoe material makes contact with the drum. One other thing to check. Im not sure about Ferozas, but F series Rockys have a brake proportioning valve half way between front and back brakes. This also has a bleeding valve in it. This should be bleed when bleeding the wheel cylinders.
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
This break ballancing dubri i
This break ballancing dubri is where the daihats gets it's 'normal' spongyness. A mate of mine removed the one on his F50 couse it was leaking. Nearly shot himself through the windscreen every time he used them there after.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
Air
You say your no mechanic!
Always use new fluid of correct type and not from any tin thats been saved.
Have you bled the system in the correct order? Always bleed the greatest distance first and shortest last. Also have the receiving jar lower than the nipple and tighten it as fluid flows when no bubbles are visible. If you dont follow the rule air will be trapped at the brake pipe intersections.
Alternatively are the brake nipples a secure fit or rusty? They are relatively cheap to purchase from any motor shop - standard size, so take one to your local motor shop to get it matched - and replace all nipples.