Forum:
Hi, I used to own an old 1970's farm daihatsu, it was a great trundle wagon, poor on fuel but soft top,split rear seats that folded down from the sides. It had been painted red and was real good fun. Unfortunately it was nicked and trashed, I had a young daughter and decided to get a more sensible car. So the other day I wrote off the more sensible car on the motorway and have decided to get myself a sportrak. there is a J reg one for sale a couple of miles down the road. The photo looks good, very shiny, not tatty, it has done 113,000 miles. It is taxed for 6 months and mot' for three.
I need some advice really, like whatshould I be looking out for when I go to look and should I be asking any specific questions. The guy wants £1,000 for it but I have managed to bring him down to £900 over the phone. He reckons that there are no noises that shouldn't be there.(tapping etc) no smoke, it uses no oil, no leaks. Is the price about right do you think, it is a tidy looking car, tho there are no extras, just regular wheels, no running boards or bars. Also if the tyres look a litttle worn, what sort of figure will it cost to replace them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. kind regards, jen
Buying a Sportrak
I would place the car you are describing a bit too highly priced bearing in mind the age , mileage and the extras, or lack of.
The paintwork on the older cars was very good but beware of the chassis. If it hasn't been looked after then expect ruct at both ends and where the rear axle is attached. If it is covered in new underseal then be very wary of these areas.
The engines are prestty good but can suffer from head gasket failure and check the cam cover for crack on each corner. Has it a service record, when was the cam belt last changed. at 115000 it should have been changed twice or due shortly for the 2nd. The period for each being 60K miles.
Check for axle whine and I will be surprised if the cat isn't rattling oon acceleration. If the car has the extended arches check for corrosin beneath, difficult without removing but generally a hand around the wheel arches will reveal irregularities.
At the front check the bar at either end runnung immediatly beneath the grill for rust. Check for brake pipe corrosion particularly across the rear axle. Lift the rear carpets and check the seam between the inner wheel arch and the floor for rust. Whilst there check the rear seat belt anchorage point on the inner wings as rust here is , well need I say any more.
As for the rest they were quite well built in the early days and apart from obvious door bottoms, all three they dont tend to be that bad. Check the rear corners of the rear wings for bubbles. The cavity fills with water through the blanked off lights assuming the light are in the bumper. The drain hole is poor and fills with grime allowing water to accumilate and rot this corner.
When driving the gerbox should be smooth and not notchy. Check the 4wd is operational both H and L. If manual hubs make sure they lock and release, if Automatic hubs make sure they also work and disengage.
Tyres vary dependant on quality and type. Unfortunately I live in France so choice is a proble. I always go for M&S rather than all terrain and those I have on now are HANKOOK 225x70x15 (I think) and run me in at about 80€ fitted complete each (55£) Im sure in the UK you will be able to get them at about £45 a corner. The Hankook tyres last well and have certianly lasted longer than Generals and Goodyear, both dearer tyres.
In conclusion Rust on the chassis rails is the biggest problem, the body work and the engines are pretty sound provide regular maintenance can be proved. The price is on the high side. I have a J reg with chrome wheels, side step, spots, electric mirrors, windows that I bourght in 1994. It has 105K miles has been maintained by me from the day of purchase, waxoyed every two years and I have just replaced the Radiator and all the belts. I would expect unfortunately to get about £650 tops for it and that is why I won't consider selling. I also have an ANJOU limited 1996 fully loaded with &3K miles and paid £1300 last year for it. It is not as fast, has a poorer body and feels generally cheaper than the older car. So you pay yer money and take yer choice. Personally I prefer the old one but the price you are paying is a bit OTT unless you have a really good motor with full service history. I would knock him on the tyres and try £750. Find any rot on those chassis rails then walk away. There are loads about on Ebay so you will find another.
Hope this helps
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Definately the rust on the
Definately the rust on the chassis rails, i would say to the guy that if hes so confident its a good motor, and for £900 you want him to MOT it before you buy.
then if it fails, you can buy it at £200 and do the work yourself..
its a lot of money and the mileage sounds high. unless its got a full service history, and he tests it for you i wouldnt pay more than about £600 to £700.
if you can knock him down over the phone a hundred quid, just go round it and point out everything thats trout, and add up how much it would be to fix. then knock it off his £900.
if you get any snags give us a PM, but to be honest what miniman wrote above would be just right.
good luck.
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
Right OK.... Being a
Right OK.... Being a girl.... I went, I saw..... I bought. The underside is clean.... no rust, no rust on the chassis, no rust anywhere, no bubbles. Now I do have to get the cambelt replaced.... I have been quoted £80-£100 by my local mechanic.... does that sound right? I did get the vehicle for £850 it has 6 months tax and mot. The only real pain is there is no key for the locking wheel nuts, and the tailgate needs a new lock and key. Also, on the motorway yesterday.... I had the misfortune to be hit by flying gravel as I went under the bridge.... there is now two rather hefty dings in the windscreen. I guess that's myluck, there is no way it will go through the mot as they are right in my driver's line of vision. So I am currently trying to track down a windscreen. Apart from that I have a happy bunny, I had forgotton how thirsty these things are, but I will just have to be a little more economical about how often I drive.... it's worth it.
If anyone can give me advice on the cost of the things I have mentioned, I would reallyappreciate it. Kind regards, Jen
cam belt
yes yes yes always regardless of the mileage replace the cam belt on any vch you buy, that has a belt not chain that is after all £100 is a lot less than a new engine and is worth it for peace of mind
locking wheel nut any mech worth his salt will have a kit of removers cost about £20.00 from machine mart get them off and replace with a set of your own
windscreen if you cant claim it off your insurance and live in the bucks area a company in newport pagnell did my 4 trak for £100. last year
lock set ebay but you may have to buy the complete set doors ign barrel and tailgate
CAM BELT
Being a girl tut tut, we all buy on impulse and as long as you are happy well that price is fine. The price of Sportys has fallen dramtically and although the price is hige in reality for what you get it is great value.
I agree 100%, get that CAMBELT changed regardless and £100 sounds very reasonable for the amount of bits that have to come off. The belt it self is cheap its the labour that will push the bill up. But as I say £100 is cheap. While they are doing it insist that the Power steering belt and alternator belt are also renewed otherwise you will have a similar labour bill for those should one fail, and sod's Law says one will. They have to come off for the Cambelt to be removed so it should just be the cost of the belts which will be about £20 the pair , if that. Again it is piece of mind as the Alternator belt is not easily accesible and a pair of stockings will not get you out of trouble as some of the older readers may recall in an emergency.
The stone chips are a nuisance and I assume they are too large to get repaired by one of these companies that lurk in service areas. The alternative is a replacement either through your insurer or perhaps one out of a breaker and a friendly chat to your local fitter. perhaps. It is a simple job if you know how and they make it look simpler but not something for the faint hearted.
You should be able to source a replacement lock and key from ebay as said usually a full set is the norm but you may find a private person who will sell you just one.
Locking wheel nuts depend on which ones were fitted. Some have adaptors whilst others have spinning over sleeves that are locked over the top of the nut. I would have a chat with the chap who is doing the Cam belt and see if he will get them off for you. He should have the means to do so at minimal cost then you can get a set of your own.
With those faults cured you should enjoy life with your Daihatsu as I have for many years. They are pretty robust but keep an eye on that chassis over the coming years and regularly hose it of in the rear and front suspension mount areas as the tin worm attacks quite unseen. You must check all the faces of the chassis not just those visible from the sides as the usual spots are in the inward side of the rails. It is worth having the Chassis waxoyd inside and outside to prevent as far as possible the rust getting hold. There are plenty of access holes along both rails for the wand to go Wax gun to get into and coat the inside. Also spry the cross tubes out as these can rot away.
Generally I have found my 1991 Sporty much better in this area and many other areas than my 1996 Sporty. I believe that standards fell off toward the end of their production and even paint finshing is better on the older car. Interiors were also more robust and padded and comparing the two side by side there are huge differences in finish. Having said that they are both excellent cars and I have covered 100,000 miles in the older with very little cost over 12 years, certaily no more than and average of £70 per year. I think I've been quite lucky and I hope you get the same return from yours.
Good Luck and Happy Daihatsu driving
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Buying a Sportrak
I would place the car you are describing a bit too highly priced bearing in mind the age , mileage and the extras, or lack of.
The paintwork on the older cars was very good but beware of the chassis. If it hasn't been looked after then expect ruct at both ends and where the rear axle is attached. If it is covered in new underseal then be very wary of these areas.
The engines are prestty good but can suffer from head gasket failure and check the cam cover for crack on each corner. Has it a service record, when was the cam belt last changed. at 115000 it should have been changed twice or due shortly for the 2nd. The period for each being 60K miles.
Check for axle whine and I will be surprised if the cat isn't rattling oon acceleration. If the car has the extended arches check for corrosin beneath, difficult without removing but generally a hand around the wheel arches will reveal irregularities.
At the front check the bar at either end runnung immediatly beneath the grill for rust. Check for brake pipe corrosion particularly across the rear axle. Lift the rear carpets and check the seam between the inner wheel arch and the floor for rust. Whilst there check the rear seat belt anchorage point on the inner wings as rust here is , well need I say any more.
As for the rest they were quite well built in the early days and apart from obvious door bottoms, all three they dont tend to be that bad. Check the rear corners of the rear wings for bubbles. The cavity fills with water through the blanked off lights assuming the light are in the bumper. The drain hole is poor and fills with grime allowing water to accumilate and rot this corner.
When driving the gerbox should be smooth and not notchy. Check the 4wd is operational both H and L. If manual hubs make sure they lock and release, if Automatic hubs make sure they also work and disengage.
Tyres vary dependant on quality and type. Unfortunately I live in France so choice is a proble. I always go for M&S rather than all terrain and those I have on now are HANKOOK 225x70x15 (I think) and run me in at about 80€ fitted complete each (55£) Im sure in the UK you will be able to get them at about £45 a corner. The Hankook tyres last well and have certianly lasted longer than Generals and Goodyear, both dearer tyres.
In conclusion Rust on the chassis rails is the biggest problem, the body work and the engines are pretty sound provide regular maintenance can be proved. The price is on the high side. I have a J reg with chrome wheels, side step, spots, electric mirrors, windows that I bourght in 1994. It has 105K miles has been maintained by me from the day of purchase, waxoyed every two years and I have just replaced the Radiator and all the belts. I would expect unfortunately to get about £650 tops for it and that is why I won't consider selling. I also have an ANJOU limited 1996 fully loaded with &3K miles and paid £1300 last year for it. It is not as fast, has a poorer body and feels generally cheaper than the older car. So you pay yer money and take yer choice. Personally I prefer the old one but the price you are paying is a bit OTT unless you have a really good motor with full service history. I would knock him on the tyres and try £750. Find any rot on those chassis rails then walk away. There are loads about on Ebay so you will find another.
Hope this helps
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
buying any car
Hi Jen,
The only advise I can really offer you is to find some one who knows a bit about cars and ask them to check it out its worth giving them say £20 it could save you a lot more in the long run even then theres no guarentee a seller will always bullshit you in anycase if I was selling it I would put a 12 months MOT on it, so does he know more than he's letting on.