Forum:
hi i have an old volvo on my drive which is gettig scrapped but i want the alloys off it first. one of the locking wheel nuts will not come off, and the key has distorted the holes on the nut so now theres no chance of getting it off with the key.
should i try and chisel it off? or use a drill? i think it would be hardened steel like and dont fancy trying to drill it out. i dont want to knacker the wheel as i was going to put them on ebay as a set of 4.
worst comes to the worst ill just sell 3!
get your drill out
I have used a drill in the past!
your best bet is to get a tyre company out to sort it, they charge a small fee but if the alloys are worth a pretty penny its worth the investment.
F20 Driver in Australia
F20 Driver in Australia
they aint worth much but if
they aint worth much but if i get £150 its free money.
its a round type nut with pins and holes, (volvo standard) and the holes have become oval over time and i cant unscrew it.
ill try a drill again but not getting anywhere after ten mins
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
bash it
bash it with a slightly smaller multifaced socket you know you want too
Gas Axe
Try some heat, gas blow torch will help free the bugger off, use as suggested stud extractors. Or just blow it off with carefull use of a gas axe, then point the cutting torch at the center of the stud to remove the bit in the wheel , can be done I removed one from my old volvo this way, deflate the tyre first so if you get hot metal on it you will avoid an explosive deflation, covering tyre with a wet sack will help avoid burning rubber. Or as suggested beat the hell out of it with a good sharp chisel and a big lump hammer
Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX
i dont think the removers
i dont think the removers wil work. its a stud, and round, and has a sleeve round it which is floating so it spins - meaning if i bash a socket onto it or use a remover it will just spin in place.
ill try and get a decent chisel from work and whack it off methinks.
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
PM me if you need Sportrak Help..
“stud/nut removersâ€
Nip down to Machine Mart and get a set of “stud/nut removersâ€, look like sockets but have a gripping/cutting design inside, you get the best fit, then hammer it onto the stud, this grips and just undo simple, and works very well, set is about £19 – had the same problem last week, and they worked a treat
Chris.
locking wheel nut
hi paul
if nut not stud
1 use a gator grip if you have one
2 bash an old socket over it kills the socket mind you
3 drill out the back of the stud if you can get at it and punch it through
4 weld a wee bit of bar to the nut and yank the f*%$ off
if stud
1 use socket method or gator grip
you havent said if its front or rear wheel cause you could always remove the stub axel and attack it from the other side therefore not damaging your alloy
Wheel Nut Seizure
Hi Paul
You do manage to come up with some problems that make me and others scratch heads. We've all had nuts seize or been a swine to get off but it is more difficult and painstaking if damage is to be avoided
These locking wheel nuts are fine until they wearor the socket dissappears down a mysterious black hole that we all again have, and then thay are a git to get off.
To preserve the wheel you really need to whack an old undersized socket on , a bit of heat may help but no doubt will naff up the laquer on the ally. If you can get the socket to bite then extend your socket wrench to get the leverage and give it a go,
If it is a nut then I've sawn before( break a hacksaw blade in half so you get the cutting edge at it's start + two for the price of one, wrap it in cloth to save the hands). It's awkward, slow and very frustrating I admit, saw down one face and then once through to the stud, well as much as possible because you won't get right down where it abutts the wheel, take a small but sharp chisel and tap it preferably counter clckwise. In most cases the nut will open enough to free itself from the the thread and will either split completely or turn off without damaging the wheel. If it Doesnt then saw a further groove opposite and then again a sharp chisel to eack grove shoud split the nut off.
If it is a stud, and a lot of Euro cars were and still are, and they are hard, then pregressively drill it out. the heat of the drilling may be enough to ease the rust and then try the socket approach again. I would say WD40 but if they are that corroded on, it just wont get in enough to ease the threads grip. Once you have enogh out the head will become weak and may shear with lick from the threaded part of the bolt, voila a freed wheel.
GOOD LUCK
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young