Welding up rear diff! - Any advice on how to do it?

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Hi all,

Just picked up a right bargain, managed to get a 1990 7 seater 2.8 TD with 2 inch brand new lift kit, new gearbox and clutch for £300. The person who used to own it, rolled it whilst off-roading, the tax ran out and was desparate to get rid of it only owning it himself a few months.

He offered to us for £500, knocked him down to £300, and we've got a right little beauty. Popped the roof back out, which wasnt too bad, new windscreen and we're off chugging through the mud again. Using our old C'reg plugger as a spares donor now, so we've got plenty of spares.

Anyway, when last off-roading in the '86 Fourtrak, we got talking to another owner of a heavily modded fourtrak, who said he'd welded up his rear diff so it no-longer slipped, giving extra propulsion when things get really gungee.

So does anyone know how to do this, as now we've got 2 motors we'd like to give it try, and if we bugger up one, we've still got a spare one - ha ha

Any pics and info would be much appreciated....

Cheers all....

Shaun

Weld

Hi if you go to image galleries - modificatons then page nine you will see how someone has welded up the front diff, that is all i know.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

www.bloodredoffroad.com
www.milneroffroad.com
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youtube: Redfourtrack

Would arge against welding

Would arge against welding diff on anything other than a full time off road car. Fiddle brakes are a better option, as you can use them as manuel traction control. I.e one wheel is spining the other grips but has no drive couse all the power is going out the spinner. You aplly the brake to the spinner, forcing drive to the wheel with grip. Jabbibg the foot break on and off can also help in this situation in as non modified car. Fiddles of course can also seriously decrease your turning circle, as that is their primery use.

If you want to weld the diff, then it's not too hard. Take the diff out. Use tones of weld to stick all the four sprockets in the centre of the diff (NOT the planet gear) together. The more weld the better.

Some people weld the front diff, as this is isolated from the running gear during road use anyway. It will work just as well off road foe not getting stuck, and can be used in cinjunction with fiddle breakes to over come the problem of the car not wanting to corner. However this puts a LOT of strain on the front drive chain, which is by necesity weaker than the rear. Personaly oi would not do this.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Off road use only .....

The Fourtrak is purely for Off-road use, will never venture on tarmac again.

The main reason we get stuck so much in mud is from what other more experienced off-roaders tell us is we need at least one lockable or locked diff.

But we'd rather not weaken or jeopardise the drive train just to gain a little more advantage in the mud, as sometimes getting stuck can be fun ha ha

Anyone have any ideas what my extra switches are in the cab compared to our '86 Fourtrak. See other post.

Cheers all have a good bank holiday weekend...

Shaun

diffs

With locked diffs you'll loose your turning circle. If done to the front you'll also have heavy steering. In dry weather with hard ground you'll put one hell of a strain on the transmission, to the point it will break. Do some research on ARB and Locrite (may be Lock-rite) from the states, who made an automatic locking diff. The kit was far simpler and cheaper than the ARB kit.

Steve

Diff lock

Welding up the diff is not advised, the diff is there to allow both wheels to rotate at different speeds when going around corner's, as the outer wheel has to travel further than the inner wheel.
Welding up the diff will not allow this to happen, and when you are on a solid surface, such as tarmac or rocks, you will simply smash the transmission. usually it will be the half shafts which smash, although it may tear tyres off the rims, or damage the u/j's.

Fit a locking differential kit, several manufacturers make them for Toyota's, and simply modify them to fit Fourtrak's, this will allow road use, and locking diff's as and when they are required. Welded diff's also make steering extremely difficult, both wheels apply equal power, often rendering the steering useless, as, no matter which way your front wheels are pointing, the vehicle will go straight on, on slippery surfaces.

Modifying Toyota locking diffs

Hey assassin,

Which Toyota locking diffs do you mean? For which models? What do you have to modify on them to make them fit a fourtrak?

Thanks
David

Locking

ARB, I believe, used to do one at one time; this fits the Daihatsu and only needs the modification to allow the half shafts to fit.

Another locking diff was available from the States, I did not buy them, simply fitted them.