'92 sportrak

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On getting into my Sportrak, i turned the key - the fuel pump hummed the ignition lights came on but on trying to start theres was nothing. No click, no noise no crank, absolutely nothing.
The battery is fully charged (I metered it) the starter motor worked perfectly up to this point, she ran well no timing issues. Out of the blue, she just would'nt start.
After installing an am/fm radio there were a few bare wires in the radio compartment, could some of these have created a problem if shorting on then radio bracket? Not sure what these wires are.
I've been looking for a few days now and don't know where else to check. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
R

have a look at the thin wire

have a look at the thin wire that goes to the starter could be that as thats the tickle wire that tells it to engage

own a volvo 940 se desial and a fourtrak 2.8 turbo desial

Wired

Find the thin wire on the solenoid, put the ignition on and run another wire from the battery live terminal, touch it onto the small wire connection on the starter. If the starter turns over it is a fault in the wiring, using a meter, test for 12 volts at the small wire with an assistant operating the starter on the ignition key.
If 12 volts is present there is no fault in the wiring, but one at the starter, if no voltage shows the fault is in the wiring.

Begin by locating the multi plug on the rear of the starter switch, probe this to see if the ignition switch is faulty, this is the most likely. If this is not showing an output it is the starter switch on the rear of the ignition barrel, this is a small plastic affair on the rear of the ignition assembly, usually clipped or screwed on.

If you have an output it is a wiring fault, run a temporary wire from the ignition switch to the starter, operate the starter on the key to confirm the fault. It would be prudent to cut the wire at tha milti plug and replace the wire with a new one, if not it is a matter of tracing the wire through its various connections until you find the faulty section.

Another possibility is a faulty earth wire, adequate earth is available for small current items to work, but not a starter solonoid, run a jump lead from the battery negative terminal to the engine block to confirm this.

Thanks so much for imparting

Thanks so much for imparting some of your wisdom, I've managed to solve the strting problem and shes purring again just as before. In getting this sorted I've created another though, there is no dashboard lights coming on, no clock, no voltmeter, the central locking seems to work, ther lights and wipers but nohing on then dash. Is it as easy as changing a fuse somewhere? Many thanks again, its been a trying couple of days but good fun.
R

Checked fuses?

Check all the fuses including the fusable links which are next to the 12v battery. If fuses are all OK then move on and test the starter motor.

CAREFUL! That battery may

CAREFUL! That battery may read 12v - but it may not be able to deliver the cranking current. Ours packed in in similar fashion (Fully charged, all lights blazing but no go when it came to start it)last year.

B4 getting the meter out, try jumping it off another car. If it goes, then it's new battery time.

Dave with a Sporty

Dave with a Sporty

92 SPORTRAK

I have just had the same problem with a battery that showed full charge but would not turn the tarter or even click the solenoid. If I added a jump starter it turned over.

On checking the contents it again showed on the Hydrometer full charge. I had a spare battery with it's contents dead and swapped the acid over from battery to battery. Again it showed full charge but this time it started the engine. SO although the original battery showed fully charged and the electrolyte was fully charged the battery was unable to deliver any power at all.

As for the bare wires where you have installed the radio, I would advise insulating any that are positive to prevent the future risk of a short and even a fire. Some thing simple like a block connectore will surffice rather than tape which tends togo messy when the heater is on.

Hope this helps

OLDMINIMAN

M J Young

92 SPORTRAK

I have just had the same problem with a battery that showed full charge but would not turn the tarter or even click the solenoid. If I added a jump starter it turned over.

On checking the contents it again showed on the Hydrometer full charge. I had a spare battery with it's contents dead and swapped the acid over from battery to battery. Again it showed full charge but this time it started the engine. SO although the original battery showed fully charged and the electrolyte was fully charged the battery was unable to deliver any power at all.

As for the bare wires where you have installed the radio, I would advise insulating any that are positive to prevent the future risk of a short and even a fire. Some thing simple like a block connectore will surffice rather than tape which tends togo messy when the heater is on.

Hope this helps

OLDMINIMAN

M J Young