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Clutch doesnt engage until lever is near end of travel!!!! Help needed!!!!!
Right she has had a new clutch after a full restore/rebuild, but i have a major problem!!!
The gearbox doesnt semm to fit propperly, as the clutch lever has to travel 90% of its travel before the clutch engages. The spline on the gearbox has started to wear away, where the thrust bearing is riding up too far due to the extreme travel the bearing has to travel.
I`ve checked the clutch and its exactly the same as what came off, and i`ve even replaced the crank as i used a different block (same engine but came from a different vehicle).
So tbh i`m at a loss, and i relly dont wanna be without the darn thing, 3-4 times i`ve removed the engine only for it to be the sam when refitted, i NEVER had this problem before, tbh it seems like i need a spacer between the flywheel and crank!!!
Need help asap!!!
Any ideas please email me at maniac_jay(@)hotmail.com.
Cheers,
James.
Which vehicle is this for?
Which vehicle is this for? And is it Petrol or Diesel?
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
I am guessing its a 2.8
I am guessing its a 2.8 diesel Fourtrak. Stretched clutch cables seems to be a bit of a problem with them. Have you adjusted your cable out completely? If you have run out of adjustment for the C clip, try putting a big nut behind the washer where the cable goes through the firewall (bulkhead) I ran a cut down poly ag fitting in there for years to fix my cable problems.
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All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
Clutching At Straws
Could be something really simple, have you fitted the friction plate the right way round, aftermarket friction plates are not usually marked "flywheel side" this is a common mistake many people make, and this gives your symptoms.
Is the clutch the right one for your vehicle, many aftermarket manufacturers use generic components, i.e. the friction plate for example, may fit a variety of differing vehicles.
Is the thrust bearing correctly installed and moving smoothly, likewise is the actuating arm correctly fitted.
If the clutch is cable operated, is this correctly adjusted, if it is hydraulicly operated, is the adjusting screw (if fitted) correctly adjusted, a common trick is for owners with worn clutches is to adjust this screw before selling a vehicle to give the potential buyer the impression that the clutch works properly.
Right cheers guys, the
Right cheers guys, the vehicle is a Sportrak 1.6 16V petrol.
The cluth is exactly the same as what i removed, and the friction plate will only go on one way due to the shape, and nut location on the flywheel.
The Thrust bearing is exactly the same also, and everything looks normal, and does its job gearbox-side. What`s happening is that the gearbox mates up to the engine and clutch, and everything seems fine, but when you put your foot on the clutch it does nothing. When you then go under the vehicle and adjust the clutch cable, you pull the lever on the gearbox and there is a hell of a lot of travel before it does anything. I can adjust the cable until its nearly all gone (lever only moving an inch if that), it will drive and move back and fore but theres a problem also. Where the thrust bearing has been pushed so far forward, its wearing the shaft into the gearbox, so the spline area is getting badly worn.
I really dunno what to make of this, as everything is as it was (have even tried the old parts to no avail. To me it seems like the spline is going into the clutch but its catching the edge of the pilot bearing, and not locating propperly. I dunno. Either that or i need a spacer on my flywheel!!!
Seriously considering a 2.8TD engine and box, as its doing my head in (even tho i`ve spent loads on it), what do i need to get to do the conversion??
Preferably sort the damn Sporty first!!!
Mud makes excellent Toothpaste.
ANYONE?????
ANYONE?????
Mud makes excellent Toothpaste.
same problem
hey, i'm having the same problem on a 2.0 petrol fourtrak... i've tried putting a spacer in on the cable as i ran out of adjustment, but it's not done anything really. I don't suppose that you've happened to change the plate round and see if this helps? only because i intend to do this tomorrow, and didnt want the day to be a waste if it's not the problem. Plus i was damn sure i put it in the same way as it came out...
Cheers,
Dave.
Clutch doesnt engage until lever is near end of travel!!!! Help
i have seen this before on my 2.8 before it died, the clitch cable had stretched and changing gears was becoming a problem, now changing the the cable sorted the problem but according to part co (not my fav place) their are two different lengths and what tends to happen is that some people adjust them up so tightly that the actuating arm bends(found this out when we removed that stupid electronic transfer box and put the old style one in). the only other thing i can think of is that the bulk head is flexing when the pedal is depressed (if the cable was to tight on old VW's the bulk head used to split)
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!
Right I`ve found the problem!!!!
What had happened is that the spring holding the thrust bearing had come off, and had allowed the thrust bearing to turn on the clutchplate. So what had happened is that the fork that pushes the thrust bearing forward had worn down by 3-4mm, so which when you multiply the distace the arm had to travel to compensate for the 3-4mm lost took it to the en of its travel.
But now I`ve sorted that problem by swapping the fork and arm over from a spare gerbox i have, so the clutch engages as normal now.
BUT.......
The engine has been rebuilt and put back together so many times that I can`t remember, but I`ve used engine sealant on the sump, but it doesn`t work. So needs re sealing.
Also the thrust bearing has come loose yet again, so needs to be clipped back onto the fork.
Anyone wanna do this for me?? Cos I can`t be asked for a few months!!! LOL.
Mud makes excellent Toothpaste.
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!
I sypathize with you and was quite shocked at the fimsy odd lokking spring that holds the thrust bearing in place. HAve a rest and start again, it will be worth it.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Did you fix it??
So just out of interest and I realise this is quite some time ago did you manage to fix this problem and if so did you replace the clutch yolk arm?? I'm having this very same issue and before I try and order all the new bits it would be great to know if the fix works.
Thanks
JP