URGENT SOFT TOP HELP

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HI
I AM COLLECTING A SOFT TOP FOR MY SPORTRAK FROM EBAY TOMORROW LUNCHTIME. HAVE BEEN TOLD ALL THE PARTS ARE THERE. LOOKED IN MANUAL AND IT LOOKS LIKE THERE ARE A LOT OF PARTS!! CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT I NEED TO LOOK FOR IN A COMPLETE KIT WHEN I PICK IT UP? AND ALSO WILL THE SOFT TOP FIT IN THE BACK OF THE SPORTRAK?

Softop

Firstly the softop will fit in the rear of the car

You chould have:

A rubber seal that goes around the centre roof panel, a rubber seal that goes around the lower rear door, two rubber triangular seals that go on the rear corners of the wings each side of the rear door.

The soft top consists of the main piece which has a concealed metal front that abutts the centre of the roof and goes over the rubber seal.

In addition there should be a rear perspex window and two side windows Make sure that all the metal "dot" clips, 2 front and 2 rear and a number along the sides, are in place and not torn away and that the nylon zips are undamaged.

You will also have a cooresponding number to dot clips, of screw ended dotsstud connectors to screw into the body for the dot clips to clip onto. A rear door plate which is black and stepped to allow the rear panel to clip it's correspnding plate beneath, two straps for securing the lot when down, 2 or 4 long dot connectors for the rear corner and to large bolts whith 2.5" approx plastic finger grips. These secure the raised hood to the front foof crossmember. I think that is about the lot. In addition there is black framems that sits on the op of the rear wing like a pram frame to keep the rear of the roof taught. With this comes a number of cross headed counter sunk screws that correspond eith the hols in the end plates which inturn correspond to the holes beneath the plastic foor. This bar is an odd contraption with moving parts on each end.

When you remove the Plastic roof, it is a 2 person job due to weight and a bit of tugging, the screws are cross headed bolts beneath plastic caps. These are best undone with a spanner. The bolts to remove are those along the tops of the rear wings and around the croosmember of the metal roof. There are two additional bolt that attach the roof to the roll bar at the back. Obviously dont lose these. The roof needs to be gently eased up ward fom both sides and often catch on the two pegs in the lower rear corners. Dont force it and if it wont come free you have forgotten all the bolts. Once all are removed it will give from the seal suddenly. Store safely. Remove the rear wiper arm complete. Don't seperate the roof into 3 bits!!!!

Getting the rear glass off is a simple case of diconnecting the heated rear screen connectors, removing the four bolts from the supports on the rear door and gently lifting away and storing safely, these are expensive. I always replace the bolts in the door and on early models these have plastic tops to them. I tend to remove the rear glass first before the roof

Once the plastic roof is removed the holes for the Dot studs are beneath black tape along each side and around the rear corners. Remove the tape and the holes are pre tapped to accept the studs. The corner ruber triangles slot over the preinstalled pegs. I grease the holes with PH waterproof grease before screwing in the studs which have a 10mm (?) nut head on them

The rear bar for the rear panel glues behind the wide rear rubber seal on the top of the door with the step facing down allowing the rear window bar to slot beneath. I think there maybe some screws to secure as if the roof has been used the tape will be shot. This part is often left in place on the car after removal so make sure it is there. It is the width of the rear door, black about 2+ inches wide and stepped. There are two straps on the rear window section to assist in this. It prevent it flapping about and make it water tight.

Fitting the windows in, is fun and not easy but dont stud the roof down untill they are in to allow for teisting and free movement of the panels.

I think thats all I can remember. The roofs, in my opinion, look terrible and usually herald the start of rain. Don't get caught with it down as it is cumbersome to errect, as the actress said to the Bishop. Chance of rain then keep it up, perhaps she said that as well Biggrin

Good Luck and lets hope we have a good summer

OLDMINIMAN

M J Young

MANY THANKS

HI
THANKS FOR ALL THAT INFO, IF THERE ARE PARTS MISSING SUCH AS THE RUBBER SEAL / SCREWS, ARE THESE SIMPLE TO PURCHASE / ACQUIRE? ALSO ONE LAST THING - THE SOFT TOP IS WHITE, I REALLY WANTED A BLACK ONE, HAVE HEARD SOME SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR - FROM BLACK VINYL BUMPER PAINT THROUGH TO SIMPLE WATERPROOF BLACK BOOT POLISH!! ANY IDEAS?
AGAIN THANKS FOR YOUR SPEEDY HELP!
eoin71uk

Bits Missing

You can probably use the existing rear seal and perhaps the roof seal. The screw studs may be available but I am not certain.

As for rec-olouring you can try interior black spray for seats and roof linings. These are very good and flexible and I would suggest a satin or Matt finish. Don't use normal black spray paint as this will flake of and the thinners within the paint will ruin the hood. Shoe Polish will not work!!

Mine is white but as I never use it, it has become a dirty grey. It washes up well with a nail brush and fairy liquid and looks quite nice although I dislike them. I paid over £400 from Daihatsu back in 1995 and its been on twice. Take care when connecting the front clips as mine was new and ripped out the first time I fitted it. If the ebayer says it is complete then it should be. Odd screws can be sorted but the seals are important to obtain a water tight hood and they are good for that and the studs with the threads on the ends may not be easy to get.

OLDMINIMAN

M J Young