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Spent the afternoon fitting a boost gauge. Just a halfords job, but fits perfectly where the clock once sat (52mm gauge)
First off I removed the air vents/instrumentation surround and removed the clock.
I then found a vacuum pipe, chopped it, teed off and made small hole in the large grommet just beneath where the a/c pipes pass through the bulkhead.
Once the pipe was hanging out where the clock would be, I chopped off the clock connector and used these 3 wires to power the gauge (perm live, illumination live and neg. earth - gauge also needs a switched live from ignition so I teed into the ignition/accessory wire on the rear of the stereo)
I used some kind of flexible bracket with loads of holes in the secure the gauge, using the same screw holes the clock used.
The gauge lights up in 7 different colours (illuminated all the time with ignition) and the needle lights up when the lights are turned on. A bit chavvy but cool all the same 
Went for a quick drive and it seems to work OK. I think I'm going to take it back as the needle is not sitting on zero when engine is off which is rather annoying.
What is the standard boost pressure of the YRV Turbo? It seems to go up to around 10 psi under full load.
Quite pleased with it and it fits perfectly into the clock aperture.
I think a black one would look better, but for the price and convenience I'm happy!
Let me know your thoughts!
If anyone wants full details of how I made it fit let me know.
You have been busy
You have been busy
Be-careful of the Clarion stereo though, as mine ate a CD and wouldn't eject... 
Personally wouldn't have gone for a white face dial, unless you have changed the one on the dash binacle
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
lit up pics posted!
4 pics posted of illuminated boost gauge. It does 7 colours or a gentle fade in/fade out of diiferent colours. Needle not lit as i forgot to turn lights on when taking pics lol!
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
Looking good there. The Turbo
Looking good there. The Turbo preassure gauge on mine shows minus on the Subaru when the engine has started and sits @ idle. Will expect the same when I put them into my YRV Turbo.
Picture of my set-up in the Subaru Impreza STi
Maynot be able to make out the turbo boosty gauge (Far Right)
Have the same set of gauges ready to fit into the YRV Turbo.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Very nice!
Looks good Jon, didn't realise you had a scangauge in the scooby as well. Yep, can see the boost gauge on the right, where will you fit them in the YRV?
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
Cheers Wayne. Have a
Cheers Wayne. Have a scangauge II in each car, pays to have a device like this. The One in the scooby forwarned me about the battery not being charged up a few months back which saved me from breaking down, only after this I found out that the regulator on top of the alternator was burning due to the cable not being bolted down properly
the impreza has a smart alternator, and only works when it detects the battery being drained 
Been planning on fitting the gauges in the YRV for a couple of years now, and have a universal 52mm x 3 pod for the A-pillar. Not sure if the cabin is already overloaded with instruments
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Information Overload? Nah!
I like gauges and things, providing of course they are installed properly and don't look rubbish, for eg I'm personally not a fan of gauges randomly bolted to a dashboard unless they are in a pod or something. I don't think I would have bothered with a boost gauge if there wasn't the clock or vent to put it in. I think an A Pillar arrangment would be good in the YRV. Do it!!
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
Cheers, may look like the
Cheers, may look like the bridge of the Starship enterprise, the onlt issue will be keeping my eyes on the road.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
return to zero
Just curious, does it stay on the same vacuum point below zero where it idles when you switch off the engine?
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Just call me G...
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
Edit - No it returns to zero
In fact I've not long been back from another trip to Halfrauds to get it replaced as I was not happy with the needle not sitting on zero (even when disconnected it sat slightly under) but this one does the same really. Was fine in the box, but once connected, it's the same. When idling, it's around -20 ish, and when turning off the engine it instantly rises up and rests just below zero. I know the electronic ones self calibrate on start up but they are more pennies lol.
Does anyone know what the standard boost pressure is on the YRV Turbo?
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo