Hi and welcome to the Forum

These are good little cars, and there's a few of us here who own them so you are in the best place.

Gearbox: A conventional fully automatic box with the usual floor mounted lever, P N R D 3 & 2 so yes, chuck it in drive and off you go if you wish. It's a four speed box with overdrive. The other (and more fun) option is to press the steershift button on the dash and select the gears with the +/- buttons on the steering wheel. Put the car into D4 (drive) with the lever and hit the steershift button. It will change down for you when slowing down but not up. The car goes ALOT better in this mode.

Faults:

There have been reports of the gearboxes failing. Why? No one knows. Most don't appear to have the ATF fluid replaced at the specified 56k/6 year interval along with the recently discovered gearbox strainer/filter. This I am sure will contribute to early failures no doubt. Reports of the D4 Gearbox light flashing is thought to be caused by insufficient voltage to the gearbox ECU, mine does this - just haven't got round to replacing the battery yet! Don't let this put you off.

Front Brake Discs. These can rust excessively in the outer inside edge due to poorly maintained/lubricated brake callipers. Callipers are easy to clean and lubricate with Mintex Cera Tec Grease (don't use copper grease). Mine had new discs last year and are still fine.

Rear Anti Roll Bar Brackets. The can snap leading to a knocking noise from the rear (Exhaust can also knock on the underside when cornering hard if the exhaust hangers are weak like mine are so check what it is if it knocks) The original ones (like mine!) are thinner angle iron I believe and the newer replacement ones are alot thicker. A lot were done under warranty.

Exhaust Twin Pipe Section. Where the two pipes merge into one, they can rust and snap. Again most were replaced with a stainless? item under warranty. The way to tell is the new tailpipes roll inwards, older ones roll outwards.

Original Alloy Wheels. These corrode for fun. Don't be put off by them, they are all like it!! Get them re-furbed or get some nice new ones.

CHECK FOR FSH!!

Cannot stress this enough. Supposed to be serviced every 6k/1 year.

OIL AND FILTER - 6K/1 YEAR
PLUGS - CHECK EVERY 2 YEARS 18K ~(PROVIDING LONGLIFE ONES ARE INSTALLED)
AIR FILTER - 27K/3 YEARS
COOLANT - 2 YEARS
BRAKE FLUID - 2 YEARS
ATF FLUID - 56K/6 YEARS

I do my oil every 3k/3months with a FULLY SYNTHETIC oil. Don't scrimp on oil. There engines work very hard and get very hot, so clean decent oil is vital.

There are a few out there that won't be serviced every 6k etc. Mine's only done 27k and has been to a dealer every single year but has not covered 6k in between services - perfect. Having said that the air filter was never ever changed! Did that myself. Expect to pay £35 approx from Andrew Pages for an air filter, more from a dealer.

These are not "specialist cars" they can be just quirky, so a decent garage should be able to look after it for you. Some parts are main dealer only, but ask here first as pattern parts are often available.

I've bound to have left something out - Just come out of hospital and I am half asleep. Keep us informed of what you find, and if you have any more questions just ask us.

Just check all the usual VIN numbers on the plate/papers match etc and that it's an honest car!

Good luck!