Remove any fixings and fixtures as they harbour muck and become rust traps over time, and rust will return as it is not dealt with. This is not curing the problem so you could be wasting your money in respraying if you do not.

Once every bit of trim is removed then you can assess the extent of the problem properly, and deal with it accordingly.

All rust needs removing back to bare metal with no rust spots remaining, then it needs stoppering to remove the depressions left. The stopper needs leaving overnight to harden, it shrinks as it hardens so overfill slightly. Wet flat with 600 grit wet and dry, wet, take time and care to do this properly as if it is not done correctly it will leave a fried egg in the paint finish. Fried eggs are where the centre is raised and looks like an egg and show through terribly in the paint finish.

Prime the flatted areas with grey High Build primer, apply three coats and allow to partially dry before applying the next coat.

On areas covered with trim such as behind the wheel arch extensions you can use stonechip, you can also do the sills with this. Stonechip is applied with a special gun, and is a textured finish which resists impacts. Guns are about £15 and all you need is a compresses air supply.

Wet flat the primer once it has dried fully, use 600 grit wet and dry, wet; but do not try to sand the stonechip.

Buy the paint from a good paint factor, these vehicles use a base and clear system, this is a non protective colour coat and a clear lacquer which is applied over the colour coat. The lacquer is the part which protects and gives the gloss finish.

Wet flat the whole area to be painted, clean it fully, go over with a tack cloth, then mask the vehicle. Go over the area with the tack cloth again, apply two colour coats and leave to dry for 1-2 hours. Apply 3-4 coats of clear lacquer and leave overnight to dry.

Remove the masking tape as soon as the lacquer is applied so it comes off easily, and avoid the newly painted surface.

Leave for about a week and buff with a buffing compound such as Farecla G10 and a compressed air or electric buffer. Take your time buffing, and use plenty of water at all times to avoid scorching the surface of the new paint. Basically drizzle it over the work area to keep it wet.
Buffing will bring the lacquer to a perfect finish and it will gleam.

Apply several coats of a good car polish such as Auto Glym super resin polish, and it will be shiny and protected as well.

You may find you have to buff the rest of the vehicle with the buffer and G10 as it will now look tatty next to the new paint.