Forum:
My 1999 Fourtrak TDX is in generally good nick. It's recently gone through its MOT with just an advisory for 'slight corrosion' in the rear end. I asked the garage proprietor where the vehicle is usually serviced, about having the entire vehicle treated with Waxoyl or Dinitrol. He said that it would possibly cause more trouble that it was worth, if the vehicle had to welded subsequently. This advice is not from someone who is against waxy type rustproofing, as he stocks and uses Waxoyl on a regular basis, but is his honest opinion.
Has anyone had long-term experience of the effectiveness of either Waxoyl or Dinitrol please? Is my garage proprietor being a little cautious, or just offering sound advice!
Thanks very much for all the advice, much of which agrees with what I suspected all along. I'll get on with this ASAP!
Rustproofing
If your Fourtrak passes the MoT now and you rustproof it effectively, it will always pass the MoT wrt rust.
My YRV is 10 years old and has no rust damage. As soon as I see any sign of rust anywhere I use my Supertrol (same as Dinitrol) sprayer.
Waxoyl is too thick to put on top of rust and rust can continue to develop under the wax.
It's best to use the very thin Supertrol to get into every crevis, let it dry a bit and CLEAR Waxoyl over the top....then keep a constant eye on it, especially if you do anything that will take off the coating, like rubbing your vehicle's bottom on rocks!
Bob F has rustproofed his Sirion Rallye 4 in a similar way I believe and I'm sure he'll chirp up on this subject.
YRV Tony
rusty trak
a problem with the trak is rust, but by the time you see it on the outside i bet the underside of it is worse, they doo tend to rust from the inside-out which goes un noticed.
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
www.bloodredoffroad.com
www.milneroffroad.com
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To a degree your garage is
To a degree your garage is correct as both are highly flammable, and will cause a vehicle fire if welding takes place. On the other hand he is incorrect as both offer excellent long term protection from corrosion.
To begin you need to assess the extent of the corrosion, is it bad enough to warrant welding? if it were it would fail the MOT.
Most corrosion is caused by the build up and trapping of mud, this holds water and any residue such as salt in contact with the vehicle. So the first thing is to clean it fully, use a jet wash or hosepipe to do the entire underside, and inside the chassis. Get above the fuel tank, and in all the chassis openings to get everything spotlessly clean, and all the much out.
Now you can assess the vehicle, how bad is the corrosion? if not too bad then cleaning with a wire brush will remove the main rust. This can now be treated once fully dried out.
If you apply waxoyl i recommend two things, warm it up by standing in hot water, and thin it with 10% white spirits. This will ensure it creeps into all the voids, and put containers under any chassis openings to catch what drains out.
Apply to the floor and any other flat sections from as many angles as possible, this ensures maximum coverage. In addition apply to cavities by firing uphill to coat the upper sections of them, it will run down and coat the bottom. Apply several coats to the inside of cavities to ensure coverage of all areas.
Any collected in the pots which drains from the inside of cavities can be filtered through the wifes tights and reused.
Once applied i recommend doing it every 3 years to keep it topped up for maximum protection.
If you have a compressor and
If you have a compressor and paraffin gun then you can apply old engine oil, just thin it down with thinners or petrol.
Spray this onto the underside, and into the chassis and voids, this penetrates and is free. This can be done as many times as you like.