Forum:
From this thread: http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/12428
Pocketrocket: "I can make you up a electronic fuel cut eliminator (connects onto map sensor), and supply a underbonnet adjustable manual boost controller (ball and spring type which reduces turbo lag hence more torque), for £50.
You could then raise boost pressure about 2-3 psi over the standard "brick wall" using this method without any issues."
I am very much interested in this, have you done this on a YRV turbo before?
Please provide some more details...
How difficult is it to install?
Does this make the car heavier on fuel in normal driving?
Would you need to a remap to take advantage of it?
Thanks...
Be careful. When I had mine
Be careful. When I had mine remapped, I was advised not to put the boost preassure up until I get a bigger intercooler. Too much charge temps from our poultry offering. Also my car was running rich on fuel, and therefore more fuel and less air can cause trouble on the cooling front. Takes your choice
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Running rich is better to be
Running rich is better to be safe, More fuel and without extra airflow means cooler internals (excess fuel is cooling the combustion). However you are not getting optimum power if it's setup too rich.
A bigger intercooler is normally only useful if you want to use sustained boost, (like on a track), for road use where the power bursts are fairly brief (like overtaking, or a quick dual carriagway blast. There is no problem.
From my experience, Daihatsu Turbo engines are genrally setup quite a bit richer on WOT (wide open throttle) compared to other turbo cars, becasue of their impressive power vs tiny size, they need the extra fuel to help keep the temps down.
I think you should change
I think you should change your name from 'Pocketrocket' to 'Obi-Munns-Kenobi'
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
D
Hi, I have not fitted one
Hi,
I have not fitted one (or sold one) to a YRV before, I actually sell them on Ebay for the GTti, and for turbo cars in general that use a MAP/MAF sensor.
Fiting is just a case of joining the 3 wires of the FCD onto the MAP sensor 3 wires, you dont actually need to cut your wiring loom, just splice in the FCD wires. So it only takes a few mins.
It's a very simple and very cheap item to make, the main cost is actually really just the time involved, each one takes about 30 mins to make.
All it consists of is a voltage clamp, The MAP sensor converts vacuum or boost pressure to a 0-5v voltage signal that it sends to the ECU. As boost rises the voltage from the MAP sensor rises, The ECU activates the fuel cut when it sees the certain voltage from the MAP sensor that is programmed into the ECU software.
The FCD allows the MAP sensor to work as normal, until just below the voltage point where the ECU hits fuel cut, Then the FCD clamps the voltage steady so the ECU thinks boost is not going any higher.
Driving is unaffected and totally the same under all conditions, apart from the ECU will not trigger fuel cut anymore, so you can do what ever you like with the boost pressure. This is where it can get dangerous if you get too greedy with raising the boost! As you raise boost over the original limit, the engine will not be getting extra fuelling to compensate if you go too far.
Im not sure what boost pressure the YRV runs standard, About 10-12psi i would say?
I made a 2 vids on Youtube about the MAP sensor and FCD :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvAoNgUXR_U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_WQEJtRvRE
And the link to ebay listing:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Turbo-Boost-Fuel-Cut-Defender-FCD-MAP-MAF-Sensor-Clamp-/220806446719?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item336916fe7f#ht_1317wt_1265
Sorry i didnt mention
Sorry i didnt mention anything regarding boost controllers.
Just a simple manual (ball and spring) boost controller can work wonders for increased torque, even if you have the boost set at the normal factory setting.
You can of course pay decent money and get a electronic boost controller, these offer the benefit of being in-car adjustable and usually have a built-in boost gauge, However for the most part, (especially if you just want a modest boost increase) then they are a waste of money.
The factory turbocharger boost actuator will be sent it's pressure air signal via a solenoid that is controlled by the ECU, typically they are setup to produce a fairly smooth gentle boost curve, so you dont spin the wheels up as easily in damp conditions, or get extra torque steer that the average driver may find too agressive.
You will also often find that the factory designed boost control decreases the boost as the revs go up.
With a decent manual or electronic boost controller, the boost will come in much harder, and stay at a more constant level as revs rise, so there are performance gains even if you keep boost set at the factory level.
With the GTti for example, Where the factory boost setup normally starts boost rising smoothly at about 2500-2800 rpm, after fitting a manual/electronic boost controller it then starts spooling at about 2200rpm, giving a considerable gain in torque.
Also, I think it's quite likely with the YRV's gearbox that the ECU may allow a bit more boost (or a brief amount of overboost) in the higher gears, so if the factory boost solenoid is disconneted and a manual/electronic boost controller fitted instead, you could then run at this factory max boost level in all the gears.