Getting used to the YRV now, Done pretty much everything i can to it in terms of ensuring it's tip-top maintenance wise. So far it's had:
2 oil and filter changes (5w40) in 600 miles (a better method than using flushing stuff)
Done 1 gearbox oil drain, managed to get 2 litres drained out. Used Comma Semi synthetic ATF. Will do it again at next engine oil change.
Coolant, 3 radiator drains and refilled with pure de-ionised water to get all the old coolant out, Then used 2 litres of Red 5 year life concentrate with de-ionsed water so that is 40% concentration for about -25c protection.
Fitted some new wiperblades (standard style), although not that impressed with the quality of wipe.
May try some of the aero flat blade type. Unsure if they will suit the car.
Tyres, proper wheel width/offset choice and geometry setup seem the wisest modification before doing anything else.
The standard suspension setup of the Turbo is actually quite a good effort in giving it a sport ride while still retaining reasonable comfort.
Since i changed the skinny original wheels and tyres and fitted slightly wider 5.5J x 15 wheels (offset 40) with 195/50 semi-slicks it is transformed.
My favorite pressure after a bit of experimenting is 33 front/29psi rear
Corners very impressive and the grip is out of this world, still comfortable enough although i do try to steer around potholes where possible.
Impossible for me to get wheelspin with the semi-slicks and auto gearbox,even damp. Emergency stop style braking with the ABS working felt like the seat was going to break off it's rails!
Had to laugh when i inspected the front brake pads, they are made by Hitachi!
(I seem to remember my friends imported Nissan 300zx turbo also had Hitachi pads)
Not as worn as i originaly thought, so will keep them on for a while longer.
Brake fluid change is about the only thing i have not done yet. Wil be using ATE SuperBlue Racing DOT4 which from experience on the Cosworth and GTti gives better pedal feel than DOT5.1
Going back to springs, I'm quite happy with firmness. If i was to do anything in the future then 1" inch lower would be nice.
A friend of a friend has a custom coil spring making business, and he is willing to make YRV springs to any spec(firmer,softer,lower,higher). Various powder coat colour options if that's your thing.
But he would of course need a set of originals as template and to test the original rating. If anyone is interested let me know.
I did a quick test with a manual boost controller. Connected up together with the original solenoid still active it's too sensitive. The spring inside is quite hard and even on it's lowest setting the boost was rising to 13/14psi (only brief, i backed off before it chance to activate boost cut)
I will probably just use a conventional bleeder valve boost controller as i only want run 12psi boost , not going to bother removing the standard solenoid. bleeder is simply fitted in the short hose from the compressor outlet to actuator.
Fuel Cut Defender is a doddle, although i am yet to connect a multimeter up to the MAP sensor output wire and measure voltage while it's on boost. (to check the exact voltage when it triggers fuel cut)
Had no funny serpentine/pinking noise since using a little GRIP tyre softener and turtle wax tyre dressing on the belt! Looks like the belt is maybe not the factory original as it says Mitsubishi on it. Will write down the part number from it next time engine has stopped in a easy position to see it!