Forum:
hi guys thinking about getting rid of my colt czt and getting a yrv turbo,
i got a scan gauge 2 boost gauge and a bailey twin piston blow of valve ready to fit and a new set of 17 inch white lenso 5 spoke, 4x100 pcd and 4 x114.3 pcd fitment, (anyone know if they will fit the yrv) when i get one, is there anything to look for when buying other than general thing like check float in turbo, check from colt to warm, oil levels, etc etc,
and modding, who has the blow off valve bug like i do, ive had all the bovs out there, but having a shity czt never run with one fully working, limp mode , does these have limp mode and the dreaded maf sensor,
cheers guys,
Hi, The YRV already has dump
Hi,
The YRV already has dump valve fitted as standard, if you want it to blow off to atmosphere for the noise you just disconnect the recirculating outlet that normally sends the dumped air back to airbox.
With it being automatic, the dump valve is partly controlled via ECU. I've never heard it but i belive it goes off slightly between gear changes even with your foot still on the throttle.
They don't have a MAF sensor. And as far as i know they dont go into limp mode.
Alloys, Problem is the rear, space is very tight with wide wheels. Anything wider than a 5.5 or 6J and you will have to do some trimming mods to the suspension lower arm to get them on, They are 4x100 fitment with 54mm centre bore.
Turbo I would not worry about unless mileage is very high. The main thing is gearbox, Making sure it changes smoothly, In normal auto mode it should be changing into 4th gear at 30mph, and at 45mph you should feel it go into a extra gear overdrive. In the manual "steershift" mode, it does not go into overdrive.
sounds like ive found the car for me
my colt looks the part, but mods are so expensive and then then some times fail, as for running a bov i got no chance, and if you got a turbo you must have a bov, i would like to run a greddy type s but they need to be recirculated but do sound nice if you car relocate as close to the filter but when i done it on my colt i had limp mode so cost me a bomb to fail lol, if there aint a maf on the yrv i can always try ,,,lol
i have a dv26 twin piston, and i got pipe work to suit,
ill check out for gearbox waterpump, the one im looking at is on 34000,
my wheels i got are dished 205 45 17 lenso project d white white with red dish, if they don't fit looks like ill keep the original wheels on,
cheers
I can tell you now that the
I can tell you now that the 205/45/R17's will not fit. I made the mistake of buying some new alloys and chose the 205 option. Daihatsu Dave and I had a go at fitting them, and they did'nt fit, especially on the rears. Also the correct tyre for ours are the 195/40/17.
Also have a look out on e-bay for any cars. There was a nice red one for sale, which are quite rare.
The modifications on the YRV Turbo can also be expensive, unless you look on E-bay
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
red one
i seen the red one looked nice, but to far for me to travel...
ive already setup an email if anything comes up ill know about it,
ill probs keep the origial wheels for now... but i got the lenso project r which will be comming of next year, and going on ebay
Welcome. Sounds like the
Welcome.
Sounds like the Mitsubishi has a similar issue as the mark 1 Subaru Impreza WRX/ turbo 2000 when you swapped out the airbox to a cone filter. Been there....
Have come across the newer Colt Ralliart, and they are quick off the block.
Other things to look out for on the YRV Turbo:
- Rear underneath Anti-role bar brackets are prone to snapping. There are uprated ones which prevents this.
- Water pump seems to be an issue, a couple of us have experienced leaks. I have a new one fitted.
- Wheels and tyres can be an issue. You can go to a 17" Rim, but as already mentioned your limited on sizes. On mine I have 5mm Hubcentric spacers (Rear) on a 6J with a ET38 wheel and Toyo Proxes at 195/40/R17.
Other things to look out for is rust, especially on the sills underneath the side skirts. I have had to get mine done for not following advice on here to check them. Nearly failed an M.O.T because of this. And have had to get some welding done.
Rust on the wheel arches is another thing to look out for. If the car has the original Double ended exhaust, then these can rot.
You also have to bare in mind that Daihatsu only officially imported 210 YRV Turbo cars, with roughly 194 left on the road now, so pick carefully if you can.
- Aftermarket parts are a challenege, such as lowering springs, strutbars etc...
Good luck with your search.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
You can get 185/35/17, which
You can get 185/35/17, which may help out with tight clearances. Damn skinny sidewalls though, not nice on poor road surfaces.
Yes, MAF sensor cars, no fun for playing about with mods yourself.
Had a Fiat Uno turbo once (for a few weeks, until I came to my senses), dump valve caused car to idle bad and stall all the time at junctions (before the days of twin piston ones).
bov issues
ive had alot of bov but the colt only liked the stock one and a galant stock one, none were any fun,
i did spend around £300 on a hard pipe kit to run a greddy type s with a cone filter which was a sucsess, but it still didnt get me notice,
but i have seen a yrv with a hks ssqv, which sound nice,
but im gonna try the greddy type s recirculated with a cone filter one last time on a turbo car, if all else fails im gonna hang up my tools and leave stock...:(
slammed on rims
my 17 have et 35 and et 40 so ill give erm a try but im running 205/45/17 tyres...
ill try erm 1st if i fail ill sell them on.
i was an m.o.t. tester for 6 years ill take care looking more at rust issues now , ill get a can of wax oil on it if they rust, cheers dude,
i can only find one for sale with 34000 full service history but ill do a wynne flush and oil filter on it asap...
ill be happy if it does not have limp mode and i can run a open bov...
cheers guys , very helpfull advice, looking forward to mod and share...
They wont even bolt up onto
They wont even bolt up onto the hub. They will be fouling on the suspension before the nuts are tight.
IMO, the best noise is actually no dump valve, and using a open air filter cone you hear the air fluttering over the compressor wheel.
A serious car will often not use one, Dump valves can actually slow you down. Dumping all that pressurised air means it takes slightly longer to build boost back up again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEK7POxpVeE&list=FLluNi6EvkYWMxh8zTQ7Hw4g&index=196&feature=plpp_video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jkdu2gVdHA&feature=related
Check out the noise of this, Testing friends GTti, again no dump valve:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCw1hXbAT74&list=FLluNi6EvkYWMxh8zTQ7Hw4g&index=136&feature=plpp_video
compression surge
that sound terrible, iv replaced turbo,s that had bov to tight to open, which made compression surge, stalls the turbo which is the noise , in time it will where the bearings in the turbo, best setup is anti lag or 5th injector, which lets the turbo keep spooling but releases the air till gear is selected... ill never do that so a turbo car as ill be using it ever day , but if other like it then its their risk. ,,,, rallying is a very costly sport but nice videos, my dads evo sounded like tha as the throttle body was jacked open so the bov never had a vacum to open, it never idled right i hunted from 1000 to 2000 revs and was controlled via the injectors, but he spent £30k on it and after 5 rallys the turbo was knackerd, but thats how they got 300bhp and stupid high amount of torque.
but on a better note on the wheels, ill get spacers if they it but if not ill sell them on, im gonna try tho, ive done wheel arch pealing and adjustded stock suspension with poly block to the suspension dont drop down so far, still keep the rid soft, but i wont be spending to much time trying to fit them, if i fail stock will do ... ... for now lol
my czt video greddy type s
this one replaced my stock valve and all characteristics were the same just made a noise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiNfvaN35MA
but it is recuculated
this one atmos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwp&NR=1&v=-uNMqxYPs94
but does cause stalling issue as unfiltered air enters on idle,,,
but if it located next to the filter then sound is louder, and filtered.
ive had a hks ssqv and never likes the high tone, and it caused stalling issue
but my twin piston dv26 closes on idle and only opens when there is pressure and loud, when i put it on ill video it and put on ere , if i manage to buy the yrv. fingers crossed i do
There is a lot of bullsh*t
There is a lot of bullsh*t out there in the tuning world, Many of the so called tuning magazines and even some of the tuners are responsible.
It doesn't stall the turbo at all, you are simply hearing air going across blades in the wrong direction than is intended by the shape and angel of the blades. The compressor wheel speed is determined by the exhaust turbine speed, which is moved by exhaust gas.
What it can do (in extreme cases), is put excessive thrust load on the turbo. But you'd need pretty extreme cases for his for happen, Wear would probably come only surface over thousands of miles.
In the many years I have been stripping and building turbos, I am yet to come across a turbo that has had sudden major failure from this.
Quite a few turbo cars didn't even used to have BOV's. It's not really harmful unless on pretty high boost.
True compressor surge is totally different. It occurs during actual boosting, when the turbo is trying to force more air into engine than the engine can actually swallow, so pressure and airflow backs up and forces it's way past compressor.
This is very bad for turbo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCj6Spwl1CU
This shows proper surge.
What I have done is to design
What I have done is to design and build a box that can turn any dump valve on or off from inside the car when driving/idling.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220900591699&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_745wt_1265
Works good. Pretty sure you cannot get anything like this elsewhere.
I used to get annoyed at the dump valve you see. The valve on the GTti was quite loud....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3p-cIhZ21w
??? thats a good idea
thats what i have needed for setting up my greddy type on the colt i had to drive it hard stop adjust try again, till i had the loudest greddy type s sound, must had done it 30 times to get it spot on, and with 2 springs to play with made it harder to decide which one to us lol...
i never thought id like a bov sound but when i heared a greddy type s , that was it,
is this the sound
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZoV1vPZJwE&feature=related
no bov on this car, just the cone filter,
i get this sound on mine ten my valve goes off,
still got my greddy type s
which ill try on my yrv.
dont know wa spring is in it yet,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPOEjAnQIlI
this is wa it will sound like
sounds to me he should have used a bov
that very unlucky and i bet cost a bit to replace the blades on tha turbo, my mate s seat turbo had the same problem, true surge when he changed it the fins on the induction side didnt have any tips they were snapped off, he blanked his bov and he said he done 8k miles like tha before tha started to happen, when he replaced the turbo he installed a bov but hates the pssshhh noise, so i sold him a greddy type s and runs with upper and lower vacum ports which gives him stealth bov, but if he wants a loud sound removes and plugs the lower port vacum,
the surge does sound sweet, but i dont like the principle of a wheel forced in one direction to create boost and then when trottle is closed is force to go back thou summit design to turn one way, these little super minis are design with bovs for a reason, modding to get a sound will loose you those horses, but sounds the bees,
always had people asking me what is under the hood, and showed them this they looked stunned
and now ill be going to put a deposit on the yrv tubro i hope to get the same response and still piss the saxo vts off when i give them a dump off and keep on there bumper with my 5door mini mpv,
cant wait to try my bailey dv26
deposit paid 1 week before the yrv is home
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310351972500?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1752wt_1270
her it is the yrv, nearly an owner,
It's been on there a while,
It's been on there a while, IMO The car is overpriced.
These are best bought privatly, That dealer is making his £1000.
I paid £2200 for mine. 22,000 miles from new with full Daihatsu service.
The Red (rare colour) on ebay the other week had only done 40,000 miles, and was £1600, it didn't even sell.
One here for £1200, although it's had a repair 4 years ago.
http://www4.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201151437567150/sort/priceasc/usedcars/model/yrv/make/daihatsu/postcode/sn82ja/page/1/radius/1500/quicksearch/true?logcode=p
I would not pay much more than what I paid, £2200-2500 for a real nice one in this climate.
WAY over priced!! Agree with
WAY over priced!! Agree with above, no more than £2500 for a decent one. I paid less than that for mine in August 2010 with just 23k miles on it. Don't buy the first one you see; the first one I took out was dog rough so I walked away. They come up quite often on flea bay and auto trader so be patient.
Take advice from above when checking one over - they are a unique beast, and if looked after and maintained properly are very reliable. Just must sure the autobox works perfectly (they are jerky at times though).
As for the dump valve, being an auto it's not quite the same as a manual as far as sound effects go, obviously you don't lift off when changing gears etc. As pocketrocket said, disconnect the outlet for a louder sound, I have done this at times and it works well! The constant noise would drive me mad everyday too!
Good luck
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
i know but my colt needs to go
ive emailed a few cars and only got offered 2k for my colt czt but this one offered me £2,500 for my czt, the yrv comes with 12 months tax m.o.t, and due to only finding one turbo model jumped in head 1st, never seen other like the one in the link above, i got it reved up drove stiff in the gears, no smoke, over drive was smooth, and the underneath was like a new car with no rust, the 2 last owners were husband and wife, it does need a fog light to be mint as it was misted up, other than tha faultless,
im looking to put a cone filter on mine, might get the blitz metal core, as thats the only one i can find, and get a long life exhaust for some grunt from the rear,
nevermind its only money, and ive always said you pay for what you get, but i probs did pay tomuch... but i got one ,,, whoo hoo
Noo, Not the blitz!Want to
Noo, Not the blitz!
Want to accelerate the engine wear long term?
Stainless mesh filters, well. They don't trap fine dust particles at all.
At best it contamimates the oil and oil filter quicker and makes it dirtier, and worse case it wears cylinder walls and piston rings.
If you are that fussed for using a cone, Just buy your own like a decent sized K&N, Green or Jetex. The right size is easy to find with a neck that fits easy onto the original rubber pipe. Still not quite as good as original paper filter protection though.
Any air filter where you can see daylight pin holes in it when you hold it up to the light, is bad news for engine life!
Remember, the orignal airbox and filter has been designed, by highly qualified Daihatsu engineers, for the engine. It is calculated size to provide well over the required volume of air the engine needs at maximum RPM, even considering 12000+ miles of dust and dirt it can still give over the required volume of air.
I only switch to cones, If boost is set very high, or a larger turbocharger is fitted that can outflow the original airbox setup.
Shame the oem Honda S2000 filter wont fit underbonnet, It's a huge paper cone so offers perfect protection, and big flow.
BTW way, orignal exhaust on the later cars became stainless steel rear section (it's still painted black). Not sure on the date when they changed. But I think yours will have it.
Also echoing the above. This
Also echoing the above.
This car has been for sale for at least 3 years. And they claim it has a full service history. Something to bare in mind with the YRV Turbo is that there should be a 6 month service interval on the car. At the moment I am already on a 2nd Service Booklet. Also something that was spotted last year and it is mentioned in the service manual is that the Auto Gear box oil should be changed every 6 years. One of the issues some YRV Turbo owners have suffered from is the flashing D4 light and the car not wanting to change gear.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Correct about the exhaust. I
Correct about the exhaust. I believe the earlier tailpipes had rolled OUT ends as opposed to rolled in ends. There are not that many with the 6 month history, like jpor's for eg. Mine had only done 23k when I got it and I have every single invoice and stamp. It wasn't quite every 6 months though, but I'm certain it had an easy life before as the last owner was 92 years old.
The D4 light...........just search on here for more info.
Mine does this every week. Gearbox is perfect, and is totally random as to when it flashes. It only does it when starting up and stops flashing every time it is restarted. Has done it for the last 14 months and I'm not worried. It has been said a new battery is the cure, but I simply haven't had time (or money) to sort it.
Change the oil every 3k (I do anyway) and use the best Fully Synthetic you can afford. None of this semi crap in these engines!!
I have to say since switching to Fully, my engine appears to be alot quieter, with the "cammy" noise from cold start up completely gone. Remember to check the ATF when car is WARM and the engine is RUNNING too. It is worthwhile replacing the fluid too, although only 1.8? litres comes about leaving the rest in the box/torque converter. There is a filter/strainer in there too, but it is not listed as a serviceable part iirc and is a ball ache to change apparently.
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
What I do with mine is a
What I do with mine is a gearbox drain every time I do the engine oil.
Overkill really, but nice knowing you have done your best to prolong gearbox life.
Yea good idea, will prob
Yea good idea, will prob drain mine again at next oil change. Drain oil then move pan under box and drain that - no extra effort really and not much cost.
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
oils filters and services
well i always do a major service with any car i buy like timing belts check aux belts oils filter, brakes(which im gonna paint when i try my wheels if they fit but they probs wont, but seen 17 on ebay with 40j so mine a 3mm out on the rear and 5mm on the front but unshure if it spacers i need or will they stick out 5mm, hope i need spacers) wax oil underside and all brake lines,(dont want on bust on me with the kids in the car), oil and wynns engine treatment,(seen its advised on here somehwhere), i think im gonna get a cone filter, (not for BHP) but tha turbo spooling sound. the colt was awsum sounding with a cone but smaller filter im gonna fit not a huge one,(pointless realy) trying to get a saxo 1400 k&n kit comes with pipe bends and a oil breather t pipe so ill still have filtered oil breathing with a constant vacum, any advise on which oils to use, 5w 30 be ok for the engine?
and im gonna put my bailey on it as i like the sound and not realy bothered if it goes of or not but seen one on ere fitted to a yrv, be easyer to make an induction pipe so i can keep the original in stock for when its time sell,
and for what ive seen on the tinternet the exhaust is a 2 piece part rear being just a tail pipe and center having center and rear silencer, anyone experimented with removing the rear silencer and replacing with a pipe section, just for sound increase not bhp...
im happy with the power and if i wanted to get it higher ill get a bigger turbo and get it maped, just like to have a nice sounding car, , cheers guys
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I'm not sure what larger
I'm not sure what larger turbo would fit. Remember the gearbox won't take a massive punishing, then you have the fuel cut/brick wall effect to deal with when modding (which can happen with a simple mod such as after market pipes/de cat etc.)
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
only mild modding im after
i wont be changing the turbo unless i need a replacment, only light mods ill be doing like induction hard pipe with filter, bov exhaust from cat back, for sound as i like the twim pipe already on there, if i can see inside the rear box ill put a pipe inside to bypass it so makes it louder but i can always remove it, cheers
When fitting a cone, It
When fitting a cone, It should always be the biggest size that can fit in the space to get max surface area.
Biggest restriction on the car is the downpipe straight off the turbo. Would have to be custom made, nothing is available ready-made to buy.
Unfortunately you can't remap or chip these easily to suit big power increases, so you have to use a piggyback system or fit aftermarket ECU.
The ecu is pretty trick though, it self maps to air flow changes and fuel octane using the O2 sensors and knock sensor, (within the limits of the standard sized injectors)
I use 5w 40 oil in mine. 5w 30 fine and is the factory grade.
I wouldnt use any additives like wynns, or any quick oil flush products.
Change oil then change again after 500 miles is a much better way of cleaning, not that it should need it with those miles if serviced by the book.