the modding has started, this is flumpers yrv post page

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Modifications

right guys, stock car so far, but today i fitted my alpine iphone radio, needed a Arial adapter, but got it just gotta finish off fitting it, but the sounds aint tha good, any one help me with sizes and how hard are they to fit, im gonna use alpine replacments, 10cms and 13cm im guessing, but not shure , cheers guys,

Well I used to work for a

Well I used to work for a short time in car audio, And I have seen people spend a lot of money on ICE, Sometimes the end results are still pretty poor.

Before you go spending lots of money and time upgrading everything..

I fitted a small 10" active vibe sub box in the boot of mine, so then you are able to switch off the loudness setting, lower the bass down, and raise the treble up on the head unit controlling dash/door speakers.

Then you tweek the volume/bass/crossover output of the bass box amp to suit.

The result is volume that can now be turned up loud with no speaker distortion, with clear treble and vocals.

Solid bass and midrange from the bass box.

I have wired a hidden switch to be able to turn the box on and off independant of the head unit, Sometimes handy.

So much easier than messing about with the dash & door speakers. It's a bugger to get proper sound depth with dashboard fitted speakers.

dash ???

it sounds like my dash speaker may be broke as the sound comes from up there, aint looked into it yet, but my last car i upgraded the speakers only and had a realy good outcome, treble hi bass off, i dont require a sub, just a clear sound half way up, my 1st 3 cars had systems, loud and cheap lol

but this one im gonna keep original looking as i like the style, but i do like a good sound system, and a nice sounding engine

Blimey, ha. I bet added up

Blimey, ha. I bet added up that's a fair bit of extra fuel cost with the extra weight over the years!

the rover and toyota were

the rover and toyota were heavy wood, but the lexus was a fibreglass so all what was ripped out was make out of fibreglass as it had a lpg tank in the wheel well, good fun rear wheel drive but like you state fuel costs so need a eco car now,

just got a sub

i just bought a small underseat sub woofer, nout fancy, so ill have that bass now , ill look into the speakers today, my front have defo blown but the backs seam fine, might get alpines just incase, cheers

wheels on

hi guys wheels went on easy, no rubbing steering lock to lock is good, no faults to report, cant find daihatsu centre cap badges, so opted for a black one, K&n on and bailey bov on but it does flutter dump like in the video below,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um9DUyUrtaE

will get a video up soon but the one i done went mega wrong and i drove into the back of my other car lol. car was in drive when i reved it oops,

got my scan gauge installed, no faults found,
ill keep up to date, when i get time to do more mods

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50m

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50mm-Alloy-Wheel-Center-Centre-Badges-DAIHATSU-/190616020703?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyre_Trims_Trims_ET&hash=item2c6199a6df#ht_1809wt_1064

he does them in 60mm as well.

But there is normally some others on ebay. I've got some quite nice ones before from another seller, just the logo.

pic in the day light

i seen those on ebay but they are the wrong size and they dont do the size i require, if they ever come up on ebay ill get some , the gel ones in hong kong are good as ive had them before but they are out of stock, tanping, anyone know the size of the blow off valve pipe as im gonna get a 90' pipe reducer to suit for my bailey, cheers

engine bay

the yellow ring is holding the filter in place, temp fix till i make a bracket,

Is that a Blitz stainless Air

Is that a Blitz stainless Air filter?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

wheels

thanks for your advice

ive took you up on it and bought a 8 inch active under seat sub, i tweeked my alpine unit so that bass is zero and treble is 8 and it goes very loud, tinnny,with zero distortion, so cant wait for my sub to come now, i done audio for a while as seen in the lexus boot build R.D audio, my mate was the money and design , i was the labourer lol,

think it this one ...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2203732

Nice. Didn't know you had a

Nice. Didn't know you had a Subaru as well Worth also looking on www.scoobynet.co.uk, I frequent that forum on occassion as I also own a STi8 Impreza.

Make sure that the filter isn't a stainless one. Just swapped mine for an Apexi one I had imported from Japan, which is like the Blitz but safer for the engine

OK, have a play with the bass

OK, let me know how you gt one, I have not tried a under seat sub before. Have a play with the bass setting of course once you got it working.

Main thing is to keep any loudness or bass booster feature on the head unit turned off, to give the standard speakers a easy life.

got my treble sorted

i got loud and clear treble, but i still got a slight crackle from my front passenger speaker, but i can deal with it, think i fixed the sub the moving fake speaker come away from the center and was clapping, so ive layered black mastic on it and got it all back, just got try it and try fit it somewhere, might have to unbolt my seat to get it under , , , half inch , , ,seems to be a bar that bends down but underneath seems to have room,

got alpine speakers

i bought speakers today halfrauds got a deal on £55 for 2x 10cms and 2 x 13cms, just gotta fit them now, i got a kenwood sub , made hell of a difference, but need a clear sound from the fronts, may awell do back as they so cheap,

K&n

It's a k&n off a pug 306 gti6. Come with pipe but it's to big off the turbo and I don't have a vacuum t for the boost solinoid so opted to keep the stock pipe. Still sound loud. Sucks very loud then flutter dump. I'll vid soon

boost gauge fitted and photo

boost gauge fitted and ipod fitted and hidden out of the way,
new plate come today fitting tomoz and ill pic and post,

tried the sub today, it bloddy broke, trying to fix it to get it in soon,

alpine speakers fitted

got speakers all fitted now
10cm alpines fitted very easy in dash giving my much better mid and tweet, but rears were more potchy, i got 13cms but were about 2cms 2 small, but ive tapped around them to seal them, my rears were mouldy and out of shape, but sound is much better now,

so ice is complete,
alpine ipod ready unit with 10cms front 13cms rear, kenwood under seat sub,
scan gauge 2 and digital clock with temp and volt gauge in 2nd din unit,

engine bling

got around to some modding under the hood... comment welcome please

forgot to add

my bov has a 45' pipe with the stock bov atm, but im awaiting a 90' bend for my bailey bov, so ill have a yellow pipe on there soon...

wheel and engine bay

done my yellow dish
added a 45' to my k&n and a cold air duct,
more yellow pipe and my bailey twin piston but looking to get a single piston or find a way to get a greddy type s to work on it,

hks ssqv

hi guys i got a hks ssqv of a imported evo, has all the signs of a genuine on (back seals, all screw work no fake ones, and no flutter) anyway, i put a single piston bailey and all i got was the flutter noise no dump and there was a hole in the piston so it boosted fine just failed to open, the twin piston flutter dumped, and the hks open quicker than the stock valve did (vta) but i have noticed when i drive with steer shift on in 3rd it goes to change but dont like a hesitation as if it was gonna change, is this normal on the yrv or i am having a auto problem, engine runs fine doing 46mpg so says the scangauge2,

Yep they all do that. But 3rd

Yep they all do that. But 3rd only? I take it you know that 2nd in steershift can propell you up to 70-80 don't you? 2nd also does this slight hesitation as well, must be the autobox ECU's point when in full auto mode where it would do the change up, but becuase you are in control with steershift it gets passed with some fooling by the software to say you have already changed up, but you haven't

ill have to try it in the morning

ill try that, so its normal, another yrv flaw , but liveable, im so happy with this car, it just loves to be driven, my last car the colt czt loved hitting limp mode and handled ok till i drove the yrv and this drive on railes. best handling car ive had, could you point out some other flaws for me buddy, see if i got them 2 lol. my mam want one now but can seem to find a good example like mine, only seen a silver one on ebay she likes the yellow one's, cheer jpor,your a star

Wouldn't actually call it a

Wouldn't actually call it a flaw, but it's just the gearbox responding to what it should be doing

Other actual issues with the YRV turbo are:

- Rear underneath anti-roll bar brackets are known to rust and snap. This has happened to me a couple of months ago. Daihatsu actually replaced these with uprated versions, which I now have and are slightly thicker than the orinals. Watch ouyt for this as it can cause a hazzard and get in the way of your rear suspension springs.

- The original exhaust system is known to rust and snap. Also a common issue is with uprated free flow/custom exhausts is that the turbo can freeflow better but if you go past 0.8 bar the dreaded fuel cut can get you, and can be embarrassing when you are over taking when the engine feels like it's hitting a brick wall.

- Front wheel spin can be a problem, depending on tyres you have.

- One problem I am facing at the moment and so has Daihatsu Dave, is that once the car reaches over 40K on the clock it can be a problem starting from cold.

- Also the cam chain can rattle on startup from cold, again a coincidence?

Apart from that once you stiffen and uprate the handling with lowering springs, front strubar and even an underneath strutbrace, this thing will handle around the corners. As for best handling, I take it you haven't driven a Suabrau Impreza? Now that's a good handling car

pics

sounds like im in for some fun,
i seen the fuel cut thingy on ebay tha someone on here sells, pocketrocket i think , had a look at some of the stuff he sells, im ok with power (for now)lol. the exhaust on mine is stainless so ive been told as its a 04 plate, looks good anyways,

handling the evo 4rs i had was awsum but i had non legal tyres on it as it was a rally car, 4wd handle fab but the yrv for a fwd handles great,

cheers for the advice, when i m.o.t ill check it out, cheers buddy

Had a CZT and is a much better handling car than the YRV, Sorry.

I can't agree with you on this one bud. I had a CZT and it handled way better than the YRV. The YRV is one of the poorest handling cars I have had. The best I have had is probably the Mazda RX8 (so much fun in the wet with TC switched off).
Also, I never had limp mode on the CZT and it was putting out 187.9bhp & 209lb/ft of torque from the 1.5 MIVEC Turbo too. It didn't take much to get it there either. Cracking little car with a cracking little engine. Some of Mercedes recent poor build quality (I'm assuming) let it down though as it is basically the same car as the Smart ForFour Brabus. I considered getting another CZT as cars are more just run-a-bouts now with having the Honda VFR800 VTEC as my toy but i still can't bring myself to own the same car twice lol.

I dont know what you both

I dont know what you both mean, Mine doesn't do this?

Press button it changes.

Only time it doesn't is gearbox is cold and you are going to slow for a certain gear (like 4th at 20-25mph) it will beep.

it like putting the clutch in

if you drive it normal it goes thro the gears normal if you put steershift on, and drive it normal it stutters as if ifs gonna change but stays in gear and is fine all the way up to 70-80mph.
and same in all the gears, if you flat it to the floor it dont do it, only if you drive normal with half throttle,
it dont bother me realy knowing other do it,
what is the brick wall en guys???
like actully hitting a wall or like switching the ignition off and no power,
or like ripping the hanbrake up in a 4wd limited slip diff evo, ???
and would i need some of your ebay electronics???

The brick wall effect is when

The brick wall effect is when the ECU cuts fuel to the engine to protect the engine from damage. In my case as I have a blitz nur-spec-R staright through system I have a more freeflowing turbo now, and when it's cold and the intercooler is getting a good cooling then system will give that little bit of extra power, in doing so as you accelerate briskly the turbo can actually go over the pore-programmed 0.8 Bar of preassure, whilt this happens the ECU then cuts the fuel to the engine and therfore you get what people describe the brick wall, just like a car hitting a brick wall and stopping suddenly. You will know when it happens.
Luckily the boost guage I have fitted has a peak setting so when you stop the car and press the button it will show you the peak output, mine can hit 0.9 bar

Are you not using the FCD

Are you not using the FCD yet?

I'm not sure where the term "brick wall" came from but I have only ever heard it called this on this forum!

Fuel Cut or Boost Cut are the normal terms for it.

Not noticed mine doing that,

Not noticed mine doing that, steershift feels same smooth all the way up the revs.

Slight delay at changing when you press the button at max revs I would say, I press button a little earlier than when I actually want it to change. I guess that is what the amber shift light was fitted for.

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