Forum:
I want/need to do this. I've done it on other cars, but I had a bit more information available for them.
Perhaps this is a silly question, but is the clearance measured between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm adjuster, or between the cam lobe and the rocker-arm pad?
The line-drawing in the online manual looks like the latter is being done(which is my recollection of how the Lada was done, which had a similar OHC/rocker arm design)but it isn't very clear. I think you'd need a cranked feeler guage to get in there but I can probably make a holder.
Another (less critical) question: Anyone know the COLD clearance spec? The online manual only gives it HOT (0.2mm).
I don't really understand the sequence diagram (perhaps you have to be Japanese) but I can probably suss that out hands-on.
Edit: Sorry, I did a bit more searching and I think I found the info.
Clearance is indeed measured between cam and rocker
cold clearance is 0.15 mm
Sequence is described elsewhere in the manual verbally, clarifying the diagram.
ENDEDIT
Yes, A general rule of thumb.
Yes, A general rule of thumb.
For a iron block and OHC iron head combo, Cold you normally decrease .05-0.07mm from the Hot
Iron block with OHC alloy head, decrease 0.10mm-0.15mm from the Hot
Sequence diagram is awkward to get head around,and I think they only do it for a time-saver so you don't have to turn engine as much.
I prefer to measure the gap on each, one at a time and then rotate engine to do next one. Measure at largest gap point (so the base, directly opposite the lobe)
PS: You are lucky you don't have buckets with shims, A right time consuming job measuring and jiggling sizes of shims or buying a few new ones of the right size!
All Thumbs
Thanks
(Thought I'd already replied to this but it seems to have disappeared.
Apologies if it turns up as a double-post eventually. Sorry but as a newbie I find the site layout and navigation relatively obscure.)
I tried this the day before yesterday and didn't make a very good job of it. Couldn't see/find the timing marks, so I just did it by cam-lobe position as you suggest above, which is nice and direct.
OTOH the view of, and access to, the cam-lobes seems to be relatively poor on this engine, and I'm not sure I was judging their positions accurately. I was trying to use the "hot" 0.2 mm setting, as recommended in the manual, but with distractions/interruptions, and the chilly, grit-laden gale that always seems to blow-up when I have an engine open outdoors, I suspect this setting was no longer appropriate by the end of the procedure. Thats partly why I prefer a "cold" setting, so one isn't aiming at a moving target.
I had to bend the "standard" full-length feeler guage quite sharply (maybe through 80%) to get it past the rocker shaft, which probably reduces feel and accuracy.(I made a cranked feeler blade holder from a bit of ally tube from an old TV aerial, which I was quite proud of until I actually tried it on the car
Checking the clearances against the "cold" spec of 0.15mm the next day, they seemed a bit loose. Car runs, but I'm not sure its any less rattly than it was before.
I should probably have another go using the timing marks and try and make a better job of it.
Couple of questions:
(b) (Silly Q, I suspect) I found the socket on the crankshaft (through the port in the wheelarch) a bit awkward and, in my hands, prone to slipping off and chewing up the corners of the pulley nut. There doesn't seem to be clearance to get a spanner in from above.
I thought I'd be able to use a front wheel in (high) gear to turn the engine but couldn't get it to work. One wheel up it wouldn't move, two it rotated freely but the engine didn't budge. I think the diff defeated me. Is there a trick to this?
EDIT: I found roping a lever to the raised wheel allowed me to turn over the engine with a lot more control than the socket-on-pulley-nut official method. Didn't even have to take the plugs out.
PS The site layout and navigation here is , IMO, horribly eccentric. ENDEDIT