Forum:
I've been given a H reg Sportrak.
drove like a dream pottering around say 6 mile trip but over heated badly anything further, I was careful not to cook it literally over half, radiator was full of nasty, thermostat was knackered, problem solved.
The electrics are dire and every few hundred miles a light does not work, or keeps working. so far it's been the indicators, break lights, headlight issues, oil light.
The fuel tank had rust on the top seam and dumped most of the fuel at work - HSE and spill response at work called - rather embarassing.
Then we changed the water pump as water wasn't going round very well. and did the fuel hoses at the same time. Fantastic, just as I was starting to relax and enjoy Hattie the 'hatsu (about 150 miles of driving time so a week) a pipe blew under the air intake took us ages to find it as when the car was idling there was no leak, but driving it would lose water rather quickly - several hours to strip it out and replace, removed the dizzy cap to replace the whole hose and pipe and replaced all the other knackered hoses so the water problem is solved - Well it's not leaking just sat there, so we start her up and she's idling at 3000 revs. playing with the loud pedal cable makes it drop to just under 3000 so.....
Does anyone have any ideas what we have connected wrong? any ideas where to check or has the car just had it and I should strip off anything saleable and scrap the rest? Body work wise it's in good condition, but I seem to be in the engine bay alot....
Tonight we are going to look at the timing belt and re-check all the hoses by looking at the manual, but it this going to be a never ending job that will untimately end up in getting scrap money?
So far I'm using the boyfriends car, I've been without mine for a week.
Carrot cake for getting to the bottom of the post!
Tx
Should I scrap it or carry on?
I'd say you scrap a car when its beyond economic repair.
From your description, you aren't apparently anywhere near that.
You've had a few niggling problems, and you've apparently mis-connected something.
If you can't suss that out yourself, it's the sort of thing that should be pretty cheap to get a pro to do.
Thanks for this. I't pulling
Thanks for this. I't pulling our hair out! tho I can still just about stay humerous about it. Any suggestions about what has been misconnected? I know we had an issue with one of the breather hoses that was connected to the back of something near the Diz cap, he points I climb in and connect. It didn't help when we reconnected the intake we initially had the clips for the hose between the engine and manifold - School boy error, but it was midnight and I was tired
Well My car lives another
Well My car lives another day! All fixed! .. Tho I need a new diz cap and rotor arm as they've had it.... but 'she's alive'
im hungry
wheres my cake? lol, keep it going.
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
www.bloodredoffroad.com
www.milneroffroad.com
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900 rpm.
Tick over should be approx 800/900 rpm.
Yours is much too fast. Either the throttle cable needs adjusting, is stuck or the throttle tick-over screw needs adjusting.
The other alternative is the advance weights inside the distributor are sticking and not moving by centrifugal force.
Has someone taken off the distributor and had a fiddle with it without knowing how to make correct adjustments?
If it was a timing belt problem it would be back-firing of difficult to start. IMHO the problem lies in either the distributor or the carb/throttle cable.