Sirion Automatic High Revving After A Service. Help Please.

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My father had his Sirion Auto 08 1.5SX car serviced last week and it seems to have come back with a problem. I don't drive so have no clue about what is right or wrong so any help would be much appreciated.

When my Dad starts the car now it's revving at almost 1.5 instead of under 0.5 which it what it had been doing since we bought the car new. And now when he puts the car into drive it moves forward some distance on a flat surface without putting his foot on the accelerator. Also when we're driving along when trying to slow down behind traffic he's having to use his brakes more to slow down instead of lifting pressure off the accelerator. (Eg. Today he managed to drive over 100 metres with his foot off all the pedals and it took that distance to slow down from 40mph to 35mph.

Surely this can't be right? However, our service centre doesn't think there is anything wrong. They were most unhelpful. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

Sirion 1.5 SX idle speed

NorfolkBird,

Firstly I have a 1.5 SX Sirion so I have some insight into the nature of things, although mine is not an automatic transmission as yours is. I have had a 1.3 automatic in a previous life though. Both are awesome cars. I also apologise in advance if this is long-winded but you did ask, and I am honestly trying to keep it at a less complex level (but it is complex) too, but at the same time making it hopefully enjoyable to read. I have an engineering background and I have done all my own car maintenance since birth.

When I bought my 1.5 SX second-hand it idled low from start-up, as you say of yours, and frankly it seemed generally “unhappy” in the engine running department. Now being a man who likes his car to run well and efficiently I embarked upon some putting right - there was nothing basically wrong with the car, except missing some tender loving care and basic servicing, and giving it a good thrash (an Italian tune-up). Anyway my motor is how it should be now – it goes like the clappers, runs very smoothly, and it is spot on for fuel efficiency (in fact very good). It does everything it should very well.

My engine now idles at 1400 rpm on a cold start and it takes quite a while for it to accept when the temperature is hot enough to begin using the normal idle condition. There is no temperature gauge in this car and temperature indication is via a little green dashboard light - if it is green the engine is cold; no light and the engine is within the correct running temperature range; if it is red it is too hot (never seen that one).

I am headed somewhere with this is. It is quite a dumb system for actually gauging what the engine temperature is but my experience is that even when the green light extinguishes it is still some way off having reached full running temperature and a few more miles are required before it is at proper running temperature. I have found both my Sirions slow to warm up.

So now to rpm. Modern engines are controlled by a computer and that includes control of the idle speed. It is sorted out by sensors feeding back information to the computer, and devices receiving information from the computer to control the actual idle speed for varying conditions. In short there are a few conditions which affect a range of idle speeds.

My car does the following:
• Car stationary and cold – 1400 rpm “ish”
• Car stationary and at proper running temperature – normal idle 600rpm “ish”
• Car rolling in neutral and cold – 1400 rpm
• Car rolling in neutral with proper running temperature – 1000 -900 rpm
• Car going from a rolling state to a stationary state – the rpm is initially at 900–1000 rpm and then decays under control of the computer to 600 rpm. This can take a few moments.
• With electrical current draw on the alternator (lights on, fan etc) the stationary idle rpm will rise slightly to compensate for the load imposed on the engine. (the computer is doing its job)

You will note I mention the car being stationary and rolling. Even in neutral if the car is rolling (even slightly) it maintains a higher rpm from normal – not quite sure why it has this feature, but it seems to be related to softening the throttle action from full open to full close and subsequently dampening any tendency to jerk or lurch the engine in an engine braking condition (over-run).

I will add a caveat to all of the above soon due to your car being an automatic, but to summarise the engine idle is in a constant state of alteration due to a bunch of changing conditions, and for what it is worth I would say your car is doing exactly what it should be doing. The low idle condition you have been used to was actually the wrong condition due to needing a servicing, which it has just had.

The caveat I mentioned is of course your car is an automatic, which just throws in another one of those ever changing conditions for the computer to sort out. Indeed automatics generally idle higher than there manual equivalents to compensate for the drag of the gearbox at a stationary idle condition. So you have to use the information I have given to suit your own needs but the basis is the same.

In short it is my belief your car is working exactly as designed. It just feels different because it has been serviced and things are now as they should be. I say that because the rpm you quoted before the servicing was 500 rpm – that is low. The rate of slowing down you mention after the servicing is entirely like my 1.3 automatic I had – automatics don’t engine brake as well as manual cars. And my manual 1.5 SX now is also reluctant to slow down. I honestly think all is well with your car.

Incidentally you have a very rare car – there are only 350 Sirion 1.5 SX in UK, and an automatic is even rarer. I have made other posts here regarding my car and you may want to have a read especially about the rear axle thing.

Regards

Thank you so much for the

Thank you so much for the taking the time to reply in such detail. It's very much appreciated.

I think the reason my Dad has gone into a panic about it is because to him it feels completely different to how it's always felt. His argument is that this is the fourth service the car has had and the first time it's come back like this. He thinks the mechanic has knocked something out of kilter. He's now worrying about how much extra fuel the car will consume now that it's revving so much higher.

Thanks again.

hang on!!!! according to

hang on!!!! according to autodata that cars idle speed should be as what I put so I reckon you need to just get that checked, no engine idles above a 1000 really, I will just double check it again later, but thats what I found, but this is once warm btw, cold yes over 1000 briefly.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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Has it got a cable still for

Has it got a cable still for the throttle?

They may have fiddled with that and now it does not quite release fully.

Adding value

Bludnutskuloffroadinmud,

Just to say thanks for your insightful input by stating the obvious, that you looked up on the internet, in your usual succinct brusque manner. It really added value to the posting.

Good job mate.

didnt use the internet, I

didnt use the internet, I used my autodata, also I love the way you edited your posts after I put what I did about idle speeds, heyho if you wanna be grumpy its up to you.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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Idling

NorfolkBird,

Thankyou for thanking me - it doesn't happen too often, most people just shoot ans scoot. And you are welcome to my thoughts. I also enjoy writing so no worries.

I have been thinking some more.

I recently did a re-set on my ecu (the car computer) by disconnecting the car battery for a period of time - it dumps any memory it has "learned". It's an old trick but one I had never done, and I tried it to hopefully cure an idle problem I had. It worked and it changed the idle characteristics quite dramatically and for the better because I had been suffering from a lurch when the engine was de-throttled and over-running and then decaying into the idle state. It cured that by making the de-throttle softer by keeping the rpm higher for longer and slowing the rate of decay to a full low idle. I mentioned this in my original post.

I mention it again now because I wonder if the garage disconnected the battery on this service and it has effectively re-set the ecu. It is just a thought.

As for the mechanic knocking something I sort of doubt it. Modern cars are computer controlled and mechanically there is very little to nudge out of line and the Sirion is a very simple set up too. Please don't go adjusting the throttle cable to to try and sort the problem - things will get ugly because the computer always wins the argument.

Also an automatic car will roll forward when engaged in drive with no throttle - it is doing what it is supposed to.

All I would add is that so long as the car when properly hot, stationary, and in neutral gear, with NO air-con running or electrical load idles at about 750 "ish" it is fine. It can appear to take quite a while for it to settle to that final idle speed. Question: What is the idle rpm under these conditions?

Regards

Hello, Okay from the sounds

Hello,

Okay from the sounds of things it could be either of the following:

- A sensor come loose/dis-connected could have been done by the mechanic when servicing
- You have a punctured air-hose from the airfilter box to the engine

There is also an inlet-air sensor positioned between the airfilter box and the engine. This may be at fault, in some cases may need a clean.

I take it the ECU warning light on the dashboard isn't illuminating? It's a picture of an engine and would normally shine a bright orange/red colour. This would normally come on and go off when you come to start the car. If it remains on then the ECU (The car engine computer) has detected a fault.

Things to try:

Take the terminals off the car battery for a couple of minites and re-connect. If still no joy, try a different garage.

From experience I have had my fair share of good and bad garages. I have even had to change my Daihatsu approved garage, and get better explanations now from the newer garage.

Hope this helps?

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as far as I can find out your

as far as I can find out your vehicle should idle at about 640-700 or up to 750 is acceptable.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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idle

once warm it should idle well under 1000rpm, end of. MOST autos may just move when in drive if on the flat, not shoot off at speed. if this chap has had the car years and its allways run a certain way its pretty certain that the "garage" has left a vacume pipe off or similar, sooner or later the eml will illuminate, return to the garage and explain the differences and get them to look again.