yrv turbo boost pressurre | Daihatsu Drivers Club UK

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what's the standard boost pressure

what's the highest boost pressure before boost cut and safe

what's the highest safe boost pressure with a FCD

Standard boost = 0.8 barSafe

Standard boost = 0.8 bar

Safe cut = 0.85/0.9 bar

On mine the car varies slightly depending on temps. Highest my boost gauge has registered cold is 1.1 bar, warm/hot either 0.9 or 1.0 bar.

I have not changed the boost on my car, the only reason this is doing this is due to the Blitz Nur-spec-R staraight through exhaust system I have fitted to my car, and the FCD I bought from Pocketrocket

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

could u tell me which vacume

could u tell me which vacume hose u have connected the t piece too for the gauge

and how are you adjusting the boost pressure

I got my info from a fellow

I got my info from a fellow member (Waynephatg) who was good enough to post under the following image area on this site:

http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/15012

http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/15013

I haven't got a Boost valve on mine, the only reason mine boosts higher than 0.8 is because of the freeflow exhaust system, which is allowing the turbo to boost better

Not to say you could put one on, but at the moment I can only report that the has coped with a boost pressure of 1.1bar. No-one has any knowledge as far as I am aware of what the max will be on our cars.

need help guys the pic jpor

need help guys the pic jpor linked me mine aint like that looks like some 1 has bypassed the red thing completely so there are no vacume pipes going to it. i need to know where the vacume pipes go i allso noticed a little pipe on the inter cooler thats not connected so im guess 1 goes there.

Boost gauge is best joined

Boost gauge is best joined into the MAP sensor line, then you can be sure your boost gauge is showing the same as the MAP sensor and ECU is seeing.

ive conected to the same hose

ive conected to the same hose as the others have posted is this the line u mean

whats the best way to get in touch with you pocketrocket when im ready to order a fcd

I would not fit boost gauge

I would not fit boost gauge to that line. Hose to MAP sensor line is easy to cut and Tee into, just under the intercooler you will see the MAP sensor.

MAP sensor line is filtered where it joins at the plenum/inlet manifold, to stop oil vapour/moisture etc from damaging the MAP sensor internals, So using this line for boost gauge also helps protect your gauge (or boost controller if you fit one) from contamination.

My email is eval(unescape('%64%6f%63%75%6d%65%6e%74%2e%77%72%69%74%65%28%27%3c%61%20%68%72%65%66%3d%22%6d%61%69%6c%74%6f%3a%6e%6a%6d%75%6e%6e%73%40%61%6f%6c%2e%63%6f%6d%22%3e%6e%6a%6d%75%6e%6e%73%40%61%6f%6c%2e%63%6f%6d%3c%2f%61%3e%27%29%3b')) for the FCD, cheers

boost gauge , fcd and controller

i got my mcd controller, but gonna wait to install my fcd, so i can move my boost gauge t pipe, gonna paint my engine cover yellow, while it's apart, anyone know the yellow colour code, cheers guys

Posting your FCD Today

Posting your FCD Today (friday) first class so hopefully will arrive saturday for you to have a play with it over the weekend.

boost gauge , fcd and controller

i got my mcd controller, but gonna wait to install my fcd, so i can move my boost gauge t pipe, gonna paint my engine cover yellow, while it's apart, anyone know the yellow colour code, cheers guys

The colour code is on the

The colour code is on the plate inside the engine bay Should have colour : Y7 I think?

seems mine is boosting to

seems mine is boosting to 0.6.

And who was the yellow yrv behind me today

wel gel

id love to see another yrv be even better if it was a turbo lol,

it was a yellow yrv turbo

it was a yellow yrv turbo couldn't be leave it when i looked in my rear view mirror i waved they flashed

It wasn't me If the car was

It wasn't me

If the car was a standard Turbo (alloys etc..) Then I have seen this one on the A34 going towards Newcastle-Under-Lyme a couple of years ago. I believe the owner had popped up on here to confirm it was him

http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/12787

0.6? That doesn't sound right.

im going get a manual boost

im going get a manual boost controller to turn it up to 0.8 and the yellow yrv that was behind me looked like it had really shiny wheels

right boost guage now fitted

right boost guage now fitted where the clock was. did fit a bleed valve to try it but it made the boost spike which i dont like so removed it.

i tried a manual boost controller but any adjustment at all results in fuel cut so its all back to standard for now.

wa does it feel like ?

i here it feels like hitting a brick wall, you need a fcd of pocket rocket, and one of these so you can carry on using the car till you got the fcd fitted,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D2power-electronics-boost-controller-free-shipping-UK-/230574368528?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35af4da710#ht_5349wt_1037

Yep the ECU will only allow

Yep the ECU will only allow around 0.8 bar before the Fuel Cut kicks in. Mine did this with just a new exhaust and Cone air filter Have a pocket rocket FCD fitted, and adjusted this 1/2 turn anti-clock wise and is now a joy to drive and overtake cars without gripping the steering wheel and awaiting for Fuel cut to happen

yer its not nice when it

yer its not nice when it happens will be ordering a fcd from pocket rocket my next pay day

so if your travelling alond

so if your travelling alond at 3000 rpm in 3rd or forth in manual and put your foot down what does your boost go to

Whats 3rd a fourth @ 3000rpm

Whats 3rd a fourth @ 3000rpm I mostly shift down to 2nd and then 3rd. In 2nd I am boosting up to 1.0bar, especially when I end up overtaking 1 speeds who like to travel 40MPH in any zone including 60MPH roads Even before the FCD I was getting a slight Fuel Cut in 3rd, and it would reach around 0.8.5 Bar at the time, but this was over 3000RPM.

Will have a look and report back on that for you

just that in fourth gear now

just that in fourth gear now im boosting to 0.9 bar constant wanna check it against yours.

i don't know what pocketrocket pre sets his fcd at but i ended up turning mine half a turn clockwise to bring it closer to where it was fuel cutting.

how are you controlling your boost

how are you controlling your boost?
well mine i have noticed since ive intalled my new boost gauge goes upto 0.6 just on the red and it does creep up to 0.65 but never more, ive never had a fuel cut running stock but i have experianced it while pottering with the ball and spring, so i know wa it feels like now.
i do have a k&n air filter, but dont seem to affect the car atall other than the spool sound and sometimes a slight flutter,

today's mysteries

well smorning around 10:00 i got flashing d4 stuck in 1st , and while driving it was like i missed a gear in a manual, just reved up to limiter while changine 3rd to 4th, i took it to local garage and they said i got to much auto oil in the gearbox. he tested it while in drive, but he not got a sucktion device so ill have to wait till i go for m.o.t,
back to topic, my boost today went up more than normal. i was doing 50ish in 4th with overdrive engaged and slowly started to speed up. had a look at the boost gauge and it jumped up from 0.65 to 8.0 and then the overdrive dis engaged and it went back to 0.65, never seen it before,

boost gauge

i t,ed off same as the pics, as it direct of the inlet manifold, i read 0.6-0.7 on boost i aint got other mods to increase it ony got a hks bov and k&n air filter,

when i had a bailey bov, (which was shite)

the bov does open when in high rev altho the pedal is to the floor, gives a little tweet every change and when you come off fulley a long kuuchssshhh,
i would not mind installing a fcd from pocket rocket and increase the boost with a boost controller ., prefure a electronic one like hks or greddy, but saving for tha 1st before i buy a fcd,
keep us posted buddy

how did you get it to sit in

how did you get it to sit in where the clock goes as the hole for the clock it slightly bigger

clock

it was hard to get in tight fit but with a good push it poped thro the hole, so i put a brace across the back and pushed till it was on the limit before it poped thro again, looking to get a 1bar limit as i got 2 bar limit and i prob never let it above 1 bar to keep my reliability an service costs lower, my old car colt czt went up to 1.1 stck and 1.5 bar with a boost solenoid mod,

few pics of the mod

i brought a 52mm gauge today

i brought a 52mm gauge today and it just goes straight through the hole ended up just sticking to my dash for now as it was getting dark.

wa make is i

mines a tim 52mm, but just looked there is black tape wrapped around it as the surround was scratched, might be worth a try make it abit bigger,

Just poested up a new pic in

Just poested up a new pic in the 'modifications' section on how I have my gauges placed:

http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/16393

what make are the gauges and

what make are the gauges and what are they ie: boost etc etc

Auto Gauges. Top one is Oil

Auto Gauges.

Top one is Oil Pressure, Middle Oil Temp, One closest to the Windscreen is Turbo Boost.

http://www.autogauge.com.tw/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=417&Itemid=66

are they the Stepper Motor

are they the Stepper Motor type

Yes

map sensor

well i was looking thro the scan gauge today and found map, in psi mode, 170 --- on full boost, 30 off throttle, does anyone know wa this means, and in kpa mode, reading was different, went to 15 on boost, forgot wa it was off throttle, could this be converted in volts ready when i fit my fcd,

map sensor

boost

well i fitted this mcd boost controller, strait off the actuator, and i boosted upto 1.1 and it went back to 0.6 so done it a few times and them my pipe from inletmanifold to oil sensor popped off and run like shite, no fuel cut, etc etc, starting to think i should leave it stock, i have noticed the turbo seem to whistle all the time now as if its kicking in from idle, is this what the boost controller does and is it right ??? cheers guys

???

does these still use the stock boost controller or is that bypassed, if so how, any idea's please

For a MBC to work , you will

For a MBC to work , you will need to diconnect the Tee where the pipe runs to oem solenoid. I tried it like you and boost was too sensitive even with MBC turned right down.

So you want a MBC connection between compressor outlet, and actuator only.

Or , if you want to retain the oem boost control, Instead of using a MBC valve. Use a more basic bleed valve then you will be able to finely raise boost just a bit extra.

i give up

had a play about with how to fit this mcd boost controller, tried always, either got a stock boost a boost spike back to stock, or very high boost, so ive now give up and binned it, so glad i never invested more cash into it, i didnt have any other issues like a cut or anthing, just high boost, i didnt let it go above 1.5 bar, i had a pipe from the induction pipe, to mbc and to actuator and i wond it right off only 3 turns before it split, high boost, and wond it right in high boost, i used it inline with stock either acted like stock or spiked up and back to stock, in the end i gave up and bin'd it, so if you are a beginner like me dont bother , waste of time and money,

mines all set back to

mines all set back to standard but i still get a spike when i change gear.

You don't fit them from

You don't fit them from induction pipe.

Compressor housing nipple goes to bottom of MBC, side outlet of MBC to actuator.

1.5 bar! Must have been very brief not to kick the fuel cut in, Probably goodbye engine if you try that boost more than a few times.

no fuel cut ???

no fuel cut atall, i 1st fitted it strait off the actuator to the t and i all i got was a spike and back stock, i only wanna run a few extra psi, but if its tha much hassle i wont bother, all i could see as a air line from the induction pipe to a solinoid onto of the engine block and back down to the turbo and then a pipe to the actuator. on my colt czt it was easy, larger bore pipe, and remove resrictor, 1.1 peak and back off to 0.9 unless it was cold it would hold 1.0 bar, stock was 0.7,

MBC goes between compressor

MBC goes between compressor and actuator only. there is a 3 way Tee piece that you need to remove, Fit MBC in place of the 3 way and block the hose up that disapears under the engine cover to the solenoid.

new boost gauge fitted

well i fitted my new boost gauge now and its now t'ed off the map sensor,
and i dont know who asked how i fitted it like i did but i used 48mm boost hose to stop it falling thro, ill be selling my old one soon. and i can leave it with hose so all you have to do is run wires for the lamps and pipe for the pressure,

Very good. Couple of points

Very good.

Couple of points though:

The boost gauge looks to max out at 1.0 bar. I do know my car has spiked to 1.1 bar, so how will you know if yours overboosts past 1.0 bar?

Looking at the video it appears the standard exhaust system is keeping you back to 0.6 bar. I know that on my Blitz system I can easily get up to 0.8 bar. With pocketrockets FCD fitted I am easily topping 1.0bar now And without a manual/electronic boost controller fitted. Must be the standard exhaust offering strangling the turbo spool

Noticed on your scangauge you can show BHP. How did you do this?

gauges

i got a 2.0 bar boost gauge but didnt see the point as it dont go over 1.0. my colt czt did go up to 1.2 peak, so worth having then, i got a fcd off pocketrocket, but got it in the glove box ready if i get around to modding the boost, i got a mcd or summit all and spring but dont like the way it spikes,
i got BHP for when i had my colt czt and the highest i seen was 189BHP which with the mods i done was about right, all i needed was a remap turbo elbow and i could have reached 220BHP all ive seen on the scan gauge in the yrv is 129Bhp even when i had a 1.5 bar spike it didnt read high as i didnt have full throttle,
i can get the info for you if you could let me know if it works on your please cheers
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Displaying Horsepower as a Gauge

You can have Horsepower read out on your ScanGauge as you drive.

To start, from the HOME screen use MORE>MORE>MORE>XGAUGE
Then in the top right select the number of the XGauge memory you want to use (0 to 24)
Next
Using the buttons next to + and - after each character the -> in the top right will move to the next character space.
Enter 00 into the TXD screen and press OK> You will be taken to RXF
Enter 400080000000 and press OK> you will be take to RXD
Enter 0000 and press OK> you will be taken to MTH (math)
Enter 000A00170000 and press OK> you will be taken to NAME
You can enter whatever name you would like up to 3 characters, when you are finished press OK>
Lastly press SAVE.
Now you can select your new gauge just like any other one. From the home screen, press GAUGE press the button next to the gauge you want to use for the XGauge. Keep pressing as needed until your newly created XGauge name appears.
Happy BHP reading,

good luck buddy,

Cheers on the BHP Gauge info.

Cheers on the BHP Gauge info. Have now programmed this in, and with just idling I'm getting 32BHP And with a bit of rev at standstill goes up to 82BHP :-()

Sorry I haven't done the tests yet on the boost. Don't forget though I am using a straight through exhaust system so my Turbo is probably spooling up quicker because of this and therefore why I hit fuel cut. Did notice this once I swapped over from the stanrd Y-piece exhaust to the Blitz that this started to happen.

exhausts???

i got 3.2 bhp on idle, and if i give it a heavy rev it will go up to 8.2 bhp, i dont have 32 hp tho , must be reading summit differant, many lambda is out due to the high flow, it not spot on but good enough, got my mates accords type r they both had same mods exept one had a power boost fuel reg, one had 245 bhp and other had 254 bhp which is about right, they both had typoon induction, de cat with spacer on lambda's, polished headers, new head gaskets and 5th gear sychro,(commn fault lol) but my colt still kept up with them. where did you locate exhaust's from ??? cheers dale

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