hi guys , electronic boost controller? any one toyed and fitted one

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looking at a greddy profec 2 , how does these cars take boost controllers, fitting to a yrv k3-vet, cheers

As long as you disconnect the

As long as you disconnect the hose from the factory boost solenoid to actuator it should work fine.

Profec B Spec 2 is old, overpriced and overrated. I sold mine as it was not as good at holding boost as a manual underbonnet ball and spring controller!

One of the best ones out there for the money is the Gizzmo MS-IBC, And they even do one now with a built in FCD feature, so saves buying a FCD.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDi

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDi-electronic-boost-controller-type-D-SE-Free-Shipping-/230574552186?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35af50747a#ht_6888wt_1031

These are very nice sturdy units and good value. Have used them before.

No built in display or gauge but then a external analog boost gauge is better IMO.

2 dials, Hi and lo.

Closed loop design so the EBC is constantly doing it's best to hold the boost steady and exact.

the 1st one is £200 , i aint got tha much so rather get a cheaper one and a fcd of you, the hdi one is more in my price range so ill keep tha in my watch list, im looking to go all greddy, bov, turbo timer, boost controller,
or i was looking hks , bov turbo timer boost controller,
apexi seem to be a good brand but expensive,
i think a digital boost gauge would be more of a reliable reading so ill have to get one of those 1st,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIGITAL-DISPLAY-TURBO-BOOST-GAUGE-BAR-READING-52mm-/380302823629?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item588bd090cd#ht_1272wt_1038
looks like a good one for the price,
and wa do you wreckern, psi 15 or bar 1.0, might get psi seem to be more popular this day and age,

Nice gauge. But I would

Nice gauge. But I would personally go with Pocketrockets suggestion. I have mechanical analogue gauges (boost, oil Temp, oil presure), with a button on each one, so when before I switch off the car I can see my Peak out put from the turbo. As you can imagine I would rather be looking at the road and not my dials whilst driving. The benefit here is that you can monitor output for the day. This is how I know about my previous and new boost levels. I.e Standard Boost = 0.8 and new new boost (Without a Boost controller) peaks at 1.0 bar with just a straight through exhaust system.

http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/15456

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Those CET brand digital boost

Those CET brand digital boost gauges are cheap an dnot very accurate. The MAP sensor they come with is not very robust and does not seem very accurate adn the dispaly is nto fast acting like a proper dial anlaog gauge.

PS, Turbo Timers are a complete waste of money these days (not just the cost but also the fuel wasted!). The idea that they prolong turbo life is not valid now, all turbos in recent years are water cooled core and the oil quality of even mid priced oil is much much better than even 15-20 years ago.

If you have been caning it hard, then just before shutdown a 30 secs-1 minute idle is still wise. But thats about all and you can sit in car and do that yourself.

The best practice though if driving hard is to always drive the last few miles off boost and excessive load, then you can just turn off with no prolonged idle. Flicking the interior heater on blowing max hot air a mile or so before is also good idea.

My pet hate is seeing dimwits in modded cars (at car shows is typical when they have been sat idling in the entrance queue anyway for ages). They park up then walk off with the car still idling on turbo timer for up to 5 mins in some cases. Do they not think engines (camshaft mainly) still wear even when it is running at idle speed.

I'd personally rather accept that fact that every turbocharger will eventually need a recondition job (not that expensive anyway), and have a engine that's done less running/idling.

Need to take a few potatoes next time to shove up their exhaust pipes, (would probably need to use a melon instead to fit the tailpipe bore size! haha)

agreed

agreed on tha, turbo timer abandoned, im always early in work and always leave it ideal for a min or 2, dont think ill bother now, never knew turbo's were liquid cooled either, done some research on it and they run alot cooler, and i dont mean to sound dumb but the top hose on the rad going to the turbo is tha the a water cooled and if so does the yrv have a oil cooler, and where is i?
as for boost controller,
how do you adjust a manual one and could you switch it to low boost for the long eco journey and crank it up when you see a ricer??

yes water hose goes through

yes water hose goes through turbo core. Engine oil cooler is normally built into the oil filter housing where the filter screws on. I have not actually looked ion the YRV if it has one.

The oil in YRV gearbox is also cooled by water.

manual boost controllers underbonnet you can only adjust boost by opening the bonnet and turning adjuster.

The eco bit...Boost pressure is determined by the load on the engine (your foot on throttle). For a example your max boost could be set to 15psi, But if you don't use enough throttle no boost or only low boost is created.

The turbo is only producing boost (and hence proper heat) when the boost gauge shows you are above 0, at all other times it is still turning with the exhaust flow, but only slowly and free wheeling so nowhere near fast enough to help airflow or produce boost.

At a steady cruising speed you see on gauge you will be in the vacuum area shown on the boost gauge. No boost.

The more vacuum you can drive and mainatin speed with, the better fuel economy. It is often surprising how much you can back off the throtte and still maintain a crusing speed, a boost gauge is working just like a eco-gauge does in the vacuum area.

Manual boost controllers can actually be good for some because they take away the danger element of fiddling with the boost setting whilst on the move, and the temptation to just turn the boost up that little bit more could result in damaging the engine.

If you added a simple air solenoid with a dash switch you could toggle between the manual controller, and no controller (actuator pressure)

Or you can buy a solenoid to control boost which is ready to just plug in (cigar lighter powered or cut the plug off and hard wire it in, and they are in car adjustable.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D2power-electronics-boost-controller-free-shipping-UK-/230574368528?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35af4da710#ht_5349wt_1031

Not quite as good as a proper electronic controller which can adjust itself to prevent boost spikes and tries it's best to keep boost pressure steady at all revs, but it still does the job of raising or lowering boost as you turn the adjuster. Cheap and cheerful as they say.

looks to good to be true

looks like a not bad bit of kit, but i dont get how it controls the boost and then flick a switch. and you got an increseed boost, so would it run stock boost then increses to what ever i set it to, when i flick the switch???

Yep that's right, with it

Yep that's right, with it turned off the air is being bypassed through the adjustable solenoid, so standard boost.

Only adjustable when its turned on.

The only problem i can see with this type, When turned on the solenoid will be going all the time and pulsing, so will get hot and could fail.

I think its basically intended when you what to give it some extra power for a few mins, then you turn it off again. Not leave it on all the time.

Cheers for the FCD payment!

no worrys buddy

looking forward to fitting it, cheers

Posting today (friday) first

Posting today (friday) first class so should be with you on Saturday.

cheers buddy

thanks looking forward to having it, i seen the plug ill scotchlock it so wont take long to fit,

i got a mcd boost controller

i got one and fitted it on the pipe on the actuator, that goes to the turbo inlet housing but looks like another pipe goes off somewhere else, how would i install it please guys , cheers

boost contorllers are SHITE...

had a play about with how to fit this mcd boost controller, tried always, either got a stock boost a boost spike back to stock, or very high boost, so ive now give up and binned it, so glad i never invested more cash into it, i didnt have any other issues like a cut or anthing, just high boost, i didnt lt it go above 1.5 bar, so if you are a beginner like me dont bother , waste of time and money,

Did you fit compressor

Did you fit compressor housing nipple to bottom of MBC, and MBC side outlet to actuator? pipe from factory solenoid should not be connected (block it up or it will leak boost).

Done any other way it wont work, if the factory solenoid pipe is still going to actuator the ECU will compensate for the MBC as the YRV runs closed loop boost control.

what i did

1st i done the number 1 it did up my boost but it went back to stock, when i done the green line i just had high boost, what would you guys have done, ??? cheers for your help,

What have you been doing!

What have you been doing! lol.

Not a YRV of course, but this is manual boost controller fitted on my GTti.

Compressor nipple to bottom of MBC, then side outlet goes to actuator.

mmm cant find tha nipple

i can see one of those on the compressor, or any pipe close to it , this is a pic of the colt czt turbo,
cant see anything on the yrv, tha went to solinoid and the actuaror, ill have a look monday, cheers for your help

Im sure the pipe to actuator

Im sure the pipe to actuator goes to a compressor nipple as well, 3 way Tee piece.

thats where im going wrong

ill disconnect the stock solinoid, and replace with ball and spring, i got my fcd looks smaller than in the pics, very nice job buddy, cheers

i think the correct way it to

i think the correct way is to dis connect the pipes from the standard
electronic control valve, cap the pipe going to the inter-cooler then connect the pipe from the blow of valve to the pipe that goes to the inlet manifold then add your boost controller to the actuator pipe.

???

thats the blow off solinoid,
ive followed the pipe which start from the induction pipe to the solinoid, then from the solinoid to a T on the compressor housing, then to the actuator.

so monday i pluged the pipe from solinoid to T pipe which makes it not used and put the controller between the actuator and the T on the compressor housing, i had 1.3- 1.4 boost which was to high, turned it 1 turn, i got 0.4 which aint enough half a turn made it 0.6 and i spike to 1.1 bar, and i think i had a fuel cut, like i lifted the throttle and back on again, but i have a FCD (not fitted yet) but i can get a boost like the stock,

so i think , might be wrong, that the stock valve leaks filtered are in rather than the way my colt used to be controlled which was compressor /solinoid/ actuator, and that used to spike 1.1 and backed off to 0.7 which i shite realy,

id like to have a raise to 0.9/1.0 bar with no spike, like stock but higher,
so today i changed the actuator pipe for a yellow pipe, and pluged both stock soliniod pipe,s and put boost controller between induction pipe and T on compressor, but didnt have time to drive it,

if im not happy with the way it control's the boost im going stick it on Ebay, FCD and Controller, with pipe, i dont know if a electronic controller works any better, but i aint risking £100 to trial it,

cheers for everyone's help.

mine spikes using the

mine spikes using the standard boost control solenoid when changing gears with my foot flat down so is it normal for the boost to spike

mine dont spike.

mine boosts to 0.6 and no more no spike either,
i got a 2.0 bar gauge but i just bought a 1.0 bar with a 0.6 limit so its right for the car, so ill end up selling my 2.0 boost gauge with controller and fcd,

this is wa i done,

Like i have said before, The

Like i have said before, The YRV does not like MBC valve as its too agressive.

Put hoses back to standard, then fit a normal bleed valve (not a ball and spring type)

Or, for totally stealth just pierce a few small holes in the actuator rubber hose until your chosen boost is achieved, job done for free and totally hidden!

with the standard valve

with the standard valve connected wont it try to control the boost pressure

also by just using a bleed valve or drilling 2mm holes will that show on the boost gauge with the standard boost controller still attached

Depends if it has a true

Depends if it has a true closed loop boost control system. I now don't think it does, because with Jpor running bit more boost from just changing to bigger exhaust then a closed loop boost system would compensate and correct for that.

On mine it makes a little more boost just going up big hills flat out in 3rd gear due to the extra engine load, Again a closed loop system if it had it would compensate for that.

The solenoid is more than likely just pulse controlled by ECU to do the same thing all the time, ie..provide a brief overboost (some call it a spike but it's a intended overboost when you floor the throttle to help torque and get the car moving, then it backs off the boost slightly and holds it fairly constant as the revs rise.

With a bleed valve fitted and the factory solenoid (which remember is just working as a bleed when its open) this means is you will end up with a even bigger overboost as well as increased boost.

The only way to cure this is if the overboost is excessive high, is to fit bleeder on it's own and remove the hose from solenoid.

factory overboost seems to rise to about 0.8 bar, and it fails back to 0.6-0.7, with a bleeder and solenoid together you should be able to tweek it to overboost to 1 bar, then fall back to about 0.8-0.9.

Bleed valve on it's own you could probably get it to hold 1 bar steady.

The links below is the type that should work well, no ball and spring, just a variable air bleed. The side outlets fit in the actuator hose (if there is a bottom outlet it just vents to atmosphere or you can fit a hose to send the bleed air back to airbox/turbo inlet hose for less noise)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FMBV050-Under-Bonnet-Bleed-Valve-lockable-BLUE-/270943765234?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1581c2f2#ht_500wt_1048

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-lockable-2-port-bleed-valve-Boost-Control-/280769975980?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415f31d6ac#ht_1041wt_1031

Question I have for both of

Question I have for both of you....

Are you still using the stock exhaust systems?

I noticed my boost kicks in at 0.8bar as standard once I changed to a Blitz freeflow system. On my old stock ( Y-pipe) system I had no Fuel Cut whatso ever, then When I swapped the exhaust systems over this is when my Fuel Cut issues started (Turbo was spinning more freely), especially in cold wheather. Since having the Unichip-Q+ (Mapped to mods and 99-RON Unleaded) and not putting up the boost, I gained an extra 17 BHP. Once the cold weather kicked in I was getting a slight Fuel Cut at 0.85 bar. THen once I fitted Pocketrockets FCD and made the adjustment of the screw (1/2 turn anti-clock wise), car now boosts between 0.9 - 1.1 depending on the weather and temperature.

For me I would look at the exhaust system as well, as this is the achilies heel.

if the cheaper gauges were good id do exatly wa you have done
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Compact-Micro-Digital-Smoked-Lens-Volt-Voltage-Battery-Gauge-Autogauge-/160758503171?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item256df41703#ht_1202wt_1270
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Compact-Micro-Digital-Smoked-Lens-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-Display-Autogauge-/160758503172?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item256df41704#ht_1205wt_1270
nice to see a true enthusiast on here,

fcd just bought one

fcd bought got a nice little shop on ebay, well worth a look if you own a daihatsu , cheers pocketrocket

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