Forum:
I have just recently bought a fourtrak 2.0L petrol EL model 1987.
After purchasing it, i drove it down the road about 4-5 miles there was some horrible crunching, it was set in 2WD and the 2WD kept trying to engage. When I eased off on the accelerator the noise stopped but kepted on coming back throughout the drive home (typical of my luck, buying a lemon) after that day the 2WD has nevered worked, the green light does not come on anymore.
She's a lovely vehicle but I have lost my 4WD 
Also I am wondering if anyone can say what the MPG should be for a 2.0L petrol, she seems very, very thristy I am having to put in £20 of petrol per 100 miles, thanks in advance for your help.
Your posting is a little conf
Your posting is a little confusing.You say the 2wd kept trying to engage..do you mean the 4wd system kept trying to engage
There is absolutley no way that you should drive your 4track in 4wd on tarmac in normal conditions (ie dry or wet)4wd should only be used on tarmac if you are experiencing icey or snowy conditions and then only in 4wd high ..never low.
If you drive with 4wd engaged on tarmac in normal conditions it will wind the transmission up and cause extensive damage.Most folk would only use the 4wd system offroad in the mud or slippery conditions.
Does the vehicle have free wheeling hubs fitted
It does sound like somethings knackered..can you still drive it in normal 2 wheel drive mode
4 wheel drive
Hi, yes sorry the 4WD kept trying to engage. It drives fine in 2WD but nothing happens in 4WD now. It does have the locking and freewheel hubs at the front. I did not drive drive it on tarmac in 4WD it was 2WD and it kept trying to engage the 4WD by itself with horrible crunching going on.
For the 4WD to engage you hav
For the 4WD to engage you have to select it either by pressing the 4WD High button on the dash or by moving the small shift selector lever (4WD Low) down by the gear shift. If neither is selected then you can't get 4WD. So if it was trying to engage 4WD then one or other of the above must have been selected.
Try this... make sure the 4WD high button is off(button out)and then select 4WD Low by pulling the small gear shift lever towards you.Lock the hubs on the wheel hubs first and then select first gear...move forward very slowly..you will know if you have 4WD ..the vehicle will only move forward slowly.It will feel different than normal 2WD.
Let us know how you get on.If you hear crunching..stop immediately and deselct 4WD by moving the small lever back to its normal position.
Hi Mike, thanks for your help
Hi Mike, thanks for your help. When the crunching (4WD trying to engage) it was all set in 2WD. Front hubs where on freewheel, little gear lever set to 2WD and the button in the off posistion.
When the little gear lever is set to 4WD, the jeep is very slow so the gear ratio is working.
But the other week I was trying to drag a vehicle out of some scrub land.... It was all set to 4WD, but the reason why I think it is not working is that just the backwheels where spinning "I would have thought, that in 4WD all four would have spun not just the 2"
4W/D
I'm no expert, but if 4wd was trying to engage on its own i would of thought that it must be a short in either the 4wd switch or the wireing from it, if it engaged at any speed it could of stripped the teeth of a gear or done some other damage in the transfer box which would explain only the two wheels spinning in 4wd, but it sounds very much like a transfer box problem, something that has always woried me with the fourtrack is that the 4wd button is right next to the rear screen demister button, wouldnt like to accidentally press the wrong one while driving on motorway,think it was probably an oversight on the manufacturers part. Hope you get sorted Mark
Thanks for your help Mark, it
Thanks for your help Mark, it's a weird one... It drives perfect in 2WD, not a rattle or a moan.. There is one thing that is confusing me, there is a vaccum pump (which appear's visabally like a seat lunbar support) but it goes into the mid section gearbox (transfer, I think)... any ideas ??....
The wiring seems all okay, it clicks on the relay's when the 4WD drive lever is engaged (but still no green light) saying it's on... I have 5 gears (Low) and 5 normal gears all work perfect, but no 4WD...
Is there anyway I would know if it has done damage in the transfer box?? or would it have to be striped ??
Thanks again for your help
Strange happenings
After ages without 4 wheel drive, I was driving to tescos today, and the 4wd green light was flickering on and off, and that horrible grinding sound again started about every 5 miles. I know it is old but this should not be happening ??
Faulty Electrics
It sounds to me like you definatelly have an electric problem with the 4WD switch. You will want to get this fixed before it does cause damage. It's probably a bad earth or a broken wire.
I think the reason that you are getting the grinding and crunching noise is because the 4WD is trying to engage at speed. With most 4WD's including my Feroza (sportrak for you guys) you need to be stationary when you engage 4WD. If you're at speed the gears will crunch.
I think the problem is as small as an electrical problem but if it's not fixed it may do permanant damage to your car.
Good luck.
It all has gone back to what
It all has gone back to what it was again, no 4wd or green light, but it drives perfectly in 2WD. which oil should I drain to see if there is metal bits. Is it the main engine or gearbox, thanks for your help
Not the motor or gearbox. Lo
Not the motor or gearbox.
Look under the vehicle, at the rear of the gearbox/transfer case assembly. Between the front and rear tailshafts is the transfer case. Under this part at the very bottom, there should be a 15/16 inch (24mm) nut. This is the transfer case oil drain bolt. Undo this, and catch the oil in a container. Reinstall this nut, and then look for a similar nut on the forward face on the drivers side of the transfer case, approx 6 inches up from the bottom. Remove this nut/bolt, (this is the filler hole, and fill to this level with new diff oil (bought before you do any of this). When the oil starts to flow back out this hole, it is full. (should be about 1 litre)
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I have done what you said, an
I have done what you said, and there is bits of metal in the oil. This is bad isnt it
whats the next step is it gonna be expensive 
am i able to do this myself i am 20 and dont have much experience with motors, but i am quite practical minded and dont mind getting my hands dirty
I am still not sure what the vaccom hand pump is for, it looks like a lumbar support pump but it goes into the gearbox.
Thankyou for your help
How big are the pieces? Fine
How big are the pieces? Fine metal pieces, like dust or flakes, or larger pieces, possibly parts of a gear, (teeth)? Either way, it doesnt sound good. I am not too familure with the solinoid cases. Two choices, either look round for a second hand case, or rebuild your existing one. Parts here in Oz are pretty expensive. A word of warning, If you mix and match new and old parts, especially gears, it will probably end up whineing like all heck, as the missmatch of the wear patterns tend to make this happen. Hopefully, someone else on this forum, spefically in the Uk, can help you out further.
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The easiest way to see if you
The easiest way to see if you have done damage is to drain the oil. If there are pieces of metal in the oil, then its not good.
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FIX THE 4WD SWITCH FIRST!!!
FIX THE 4WD SWITCH FIRST!!! Then worry about the transfer case.
It is no use fixing or replacing the transfer case because it will only get damaged again by the faulty switch. Fix the switch so you can engage 4WD when stationary then you can actually drive it in 4wd and really find out how damaged the teeth are instead of guessing. If you replace the wheels in the transfer case you will just damage them again and have to replace them again. And no pulling the transfer case apart is not a job you want to tackle unless you're confident.
Take it into a mechanic to at least talk to them, they will say the same thing fix the switch first.
If the teeth are damaged badly you will know once you engage 4WD properly because you will hear it skip teeth (grind or clank) and there's a reasonable chance you'll feel it too.
If you're lucky not much damage has been done to the teeth and you won't have to worry about them for a few years ONCE YOU FIX THE 4WD Switch. Broken teeth won't stop the car from engaging 4wd, bad electrics will cause what you've described. The circuit is engaging and disengaging so the 4wd keeps trying to hop in and out as it gets and looses electricity. This with forward movement is what is killing the teeth.
Good luck, electric problems can be a headache to fix, they can also be easy. Follow all wires from your switch. Get a workshop manual for your car if you want to try to fix it yourself or bite the bullet and take it into a mechanic.
Sorry for being so direct with this but I've seen too many people who don't listen fix the effects of problems and spend too much money instead of going straight to the cause. My parents own a mechanic shop here in Australia so While I'm not a mechanic I've picked up a lot.
Fix the Cause then fix the rest not the other way around.