Forum:
Hi All,
I know there have been a couple of issues with K3 Engine misfires of late. To cut a long story short my car has started to misfire slightly, but this maybe because of a hole in my exhaust which has now been fixed and the bottom O2 sensor being picky perhaps?
At the moment I have had no Engine management system light come on, but the guys at my local dealership/garage say that any fault can take upto and above 4 cycles before the ECU will show its one. Diag computer plugged in shows nothing at the moment, which my Scangauge is showing no codes either.
At the moment I am now trying some Wynns injector cleaning fluid with a full tank of new Vpower 99 to see what happens. If this continues will then look at plugs, etc... to see if the problem can be determined.
Something interesting that has been mentioned today by one of the long serving Daihatsu mechanics, is that Daihatsu Injectors arnt that brilliant compared to other manufacturers, and this is something that we all need to be aware of.
Will keep you posted on any further issues and/or if the injector cleaner fixed it. 
Hi jpor. Look forward to your
Hi jpor.
Look forward to your further posts,tried injector cleaner myself.Fingers crossed it works for you.
The mechanic is talking
The mechanic is talking shite, as often is the case.
Denso injectors, are one of the best, And the vast majority of Japanese and many other cars use them
A exhaust leak near a 02 sensor cant certainly cause slight misfires, especially on sudden throttle movements
Or could be a partial misfire under load from a slightly dicky coil pack.
Funny you are saying that
Funny you are saying that Nathan. As this is when I get the misfire under load. Can be from a standing start or when I press the accelerator a bit too much. Noticed on the way home that overtaking is fine at the moment, so could be soething in it perhaps? I have spare set of 4 YRV Turbo Coil packs at the ready, so will see what happens. Just weird it only started to happen after the hole in the exhaust. ALthough I did get a slight misfire on cold morning start ups, not on warm mornings, so could the bottom O2 be to blame for this?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Most likely culprit could be
Most likely culprit could be the bottom sensor, maybe it was affected by the hole, or the repair to exhaust.
First thing I would perhaps is disconnect battery for few mins to force a ECU reset, (also turn ignition to on position while battery is off to ensure anything in reserve is fully drained)
Already had the negative
Already had the negative terminal off the battery for a couple of minutes but not tried the key turn in the ignition. So will try that also.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Postive terminal needs to be
Postive terminal is really the one to be removed, not negative.
You know when the ECU is back to factory reset state, as the dials do a fancy full scale sweep when you first turn on ignition.
Okay update time: Have now
Okay update time:
Have now done an ECU reset. As per normal all seemed well on startup and the car ran like a rocket. Took it down some B Roads and some back lanes. So far so good, so I thought. Just as I got round the corner and started to give it a bit going up the hill to my home, the dreaded misfire came back
So tried replacing the Coil packs with the set of 4 I had in reserve. Only to find that the car wouldnt turn over. On closer inspection the new packs are a model up from the ones I have on now, with a slighlty different plug connector. Yet they still looked to have connected up okay? which was weird. Both the originals and the new ones are made by 'Diamond' bu the new ones are 1 code up from the originals. As where mine have white connectors, these are black connectors, yet they came from a K3-VET engine?
Still get this misfire on load once warmed up it seems, car runs fine on idle, and no ECU light or code has appeared, but that maybe because the battery was taken off so it has reset the cycle.
Next thing to try I suppose are the plugs and to check the gaps, but cannot see how the plugs would be the problem as the car would run rough if the gaps wernt right I would have thought.
Having a think back about the misfire issue. I do know before the big service I had done, the car had trouble starting from cold mornings, and I did get a slight misfire with the original O2 sensors in place. But at the time I think the hole in the exhaust had started to show by then. Now have new plugs, and both O2 sensors replaced, so this is weird. I supposed I could try running the car without the plastic engine cover to see if that helps
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
whoops typing error sorry, my
whoops typing error sorry, my earlier post should read..
A exhaust leak near a 02 sensor CAN certainly cause slight misfires, especially on sudden throttle movements.
Off the shelf injector
Off the shelf injector cleaners are mostly a waste of money. They really only effective to help keep things clean.
BG44K is one that is potent enough, But be warned there has been reports of some injector cleaners, disolving/degrading the built in tank type fuel filters that the YRV has.
Nope, still got the misfire
Nope, still got the misfire
Also noticed fuel economy is dire as well. Also get this burning smell through the air vents as well, maybe fuel running lean or even that bg44K stuff doing its stuff. Just done nearly 40 miles so still time will tell. Need to look at other things. Maybe the FCD?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Worth trying FCD removal I
double post so I edited this one out
Fuel economy dire = running
Fuel economy dire = running rich not lean. Lean is not enough fuel.
Worth trying FCD removal I guess to rule it out,
Coudl have one of the wire splices sometimes losing contact
Another Update and play
Took the car out again today from a fresh cold start:
1). Car acts normal, and no issues
2). Took a car for a spin a couple of miles up the road and kept on a B road in 4th
3). Slowed the car down to turn into a sode road, car is in full auto Mode, then the misfire comes in
4). Comes to a round a bout in 1st try and pull away starts oka then starts chugging
5). Pulls up to the McDonalds Drive through, while waiting in the queue, switch the engine off for barely 1 minute. Pays for my food and sets off.
6). On the way home car pulls like a train again, no hesitation or misfire
7). Gets to a mini roand a bout on the way home use steershift this time. And using 2 nd gear pulls off, out of the window I can here the exhaust and the sound of a misfire coming from the exhaust with load on 2nd.
8). Gets home and all is well. No Engine Management Light, used the scangauge to scan for codes and nothing comes back.
It's definately a weird one
Lets see if it is the injectors afertall. But why would the car respond better after a switch off and restart? One of the sensors on warm up perhaps?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Ignition timing box thingy
Hi jpor,
My buddy with his YRV Turbo also got a misfire after he washed his motor...tried lots of things. The problem was that little box under the intercooler, i think its the ignition timing box. He opened it up with a very small screw driver along the edge where the silicon sits and then saw some corrosion on the soldering, he re-soldered it and problem went away you can try and get one and see if it works
06 YRV Turbo - 138kw(+-180hp) & 256nm @ 1.2 bar
57mm downpipe and freeflow
Unichip - UniQ
CAI with K&N Cone Filter
Boostcooler(50% water/meth)
35mm Tein springs
15" SSW Sting rims
custom bracebar & control arm bar
Audi intercooler
14.8s 1/4mile &
Thanks Volvarine will have a
Thanks Volvarine will have a look at this as well
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
"New D-SPort Live wire from
"New D-SPort Live wire from alternator to battery"
I would check the battery terminals...would be funny if they are a bit loose...
Where did you get the lightened pulleys? What pulleys are lightened?
06 YRV Turbo - 138kw(+-180hp) & 256nm @ 1.2 bar
57mm downpipe and freeflow
Unichip - UniQ
CAI with K&N Cone Filter
Boostcooler(50% water/meth)
35mm Tein springs
15" SSW Sting rims
custom bracebar & control arm bar
Audi intercooler
14.8s 1/4mile &
Battery terminals are fine.
Battery terminals are fine. Using the quick release connectors, which have been adjusted by the garage for me.
The pullies are lightened aluminium ones. All but the alternator and tensioner have been replaced thus far.
DaihatsuDave got me the pullies from one of his sources. So jot sure where from. Worth PMing him if you're interested in getting some.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Update: New coil Packs
Okay, managed to source some new Coil Packs and replaced my old ones with the new ones.
Still the same issue
Having a think about what I have had done to the car and the issues starting:
Car was serviced end of May this year and the following done:
- New Lightened alloy pullies (Except Alternator and tensioner)
- New D-SPort Live wire from alternator to battery
- New NTK (NGK) Exhaust O2 sensor Fitted (New manifold O2 Fitted a month earlier and no issues, again a NTK)
- New D-SPort Low Temp Thermostat Fitted
- Evans Waterless Coolant used
- Autobox Fluid and filter replaced
Issue discovered with hole appearing in the exhaust on the hanger before the exhaust joins the manifold.
On the drive back home on that day after the service, I dont remember any issues with the cars performance or any misfires.
On 16th June 2012. Day of the last Daihatsu Meet up. Car ran perfectly well on the drive up to the meet. Day was very wet and rainy, and the bonnets were up on occassion.
On the drive back home it was wet, and this is when I came across a sudden power loss and the engine felt like it was surging on and off with the accelerator pushed down, as I can could hear the apexi whooshing on and off, but at the time didnt think much to it. Then the following days after that it was when I noticed the misfiring.
So could it be that the hole in the exhaust had opened up and water had gotten into the exhaust, and has effected the bottom O2 sensor? Or just coincidence?
Umm...
Going to swap the Spark Plugs with the old ones again to rule them out, but not sure if it would be these if the car ran okay on the way home from the service.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Regarding the water into
Regarding the water into exhaust, No.
Exhaust runs so hot, And there is water going over the sensor everytime you start the car from cold, Via condensation during warm up.
But it could be the sensor still.
You said the exhaust hole was repaired? Did they weld near it?
The weld was done over the
The weld was done over the actual hole where the bracket was. But the misfire was happening before I had the weld done.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Low temp thermostat... A
Low temp thermostat...
A Lower running temp means more engine wear, and less power/economy. Bad move unless on you are on the track and struggling with overheating.
Could be something related here with the coolant sensor as that is one of the sensors that is informing ECU what to do with fuel enrichment. Also with ECU has being piggybacked with FCD/unichip. It may not be able to compensate to the cooler temp range.
However I also see you are using evans. Which generally runs hotter.
These 2 items are possible culprits to the misfire. Either it's running too hot, or too cool for what the coolant sensor is expecting.
Thinking it could be the
Thinking it could be the D-Sport Low Temp Thermostat. But why would D-Sport sell this item for the YRV and sirion etc.. If it wern't fit for purpose?
Been having another play today. Luckily the Scangauge shows the O2 sensor circuits and whetjer its in a closed (O2 in control) or open (ECU governs the fuel air mixture) Loop. Will have a look when I take the car on the road to see when the misfires happen. I'm thinking in closed loop, and will be fine when in Open Loop. Should give me a clue then on where to look.
If I have to replace the thermostat with the original again, I take it the coolant will have to be drained first? Or can I get away with just swapping them over without this? Only reason for asking is I spent a small fortune on the Evans
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP