Forum:
I recently saw a top gear re-run where Jeremy Clarkson gets a BMW M3 to give better MPG than a prius.
I decided to apply the same tactics of changing my driving style to improve the fuel economy of my 1995 Daihatsu Sportrak ELXI, no modifications and im running standard size 225/75/R15 general grabber AT2 tyres at 23 Psi front and 26 Psi rear
My journey to work is 44.8 miles and is made up of national speed limit, 30mph, 40mph, various uphill’s and downhill’s and winding single carriageway A roads.
Before changes in driving style I was getting 26 MPG and after I’m now getting 31.5 MPG
1)When going down hill get up to the speed required and keep it there by easing on the accelerator and letting engine braking slow you when required, although if you know the road well and you know there is a hill back up at the bottom increase speed down hill to build up momentum so you don’t need to accelerate as hard up the next hill
2)Avoid breaking unnecessarily, ie when approaching speed limit changes rather than braking when you reach the sign, just take your foot off the accelerator and again just engine brake and change down till the required speed. Same applies to leaving a reasonable gap in-between you and the car in front so you don’t keep getting on the brakes when they don’t accelerate or are brake happy into corners.
3)Change gear at 3000 rpm, these engines seem to be happy around the 3000 rpm range, also when cruising on dual carriageway keep it at 55 MPH where you can, which again is at 3000 rpm. You’ll only get there a few minutes later anyway. When you around town anticipate other people slowing down and when you change gear at road speed, ie 1st up to 10mph, 2nd up to twenty and so on
4)Use only part open throttle to accelerate up to speed, you don’t need to floor it or work then engine hard.
5)Use the adjustable suspension, keep it in neutral for normal B road & town driving, but on a long dual carriageway run keep it in S or soft as this improves the ride and stops you being bounced around so much, which stops your foot moving on the accelerator pedal keeping a constant pressure.
6)Make sure your front hubs are unlocked properly be it auto or manual hubs
7)Make sure the engine has a decent service including making sure the air intake is clean and clear and also check and change all fluids in the gearbox, transfer box, front and rear diffs. No special tools required just a 24 mm socket, you don’t even need a jack.
8)Unless required for work etc, you don’t need to carry extra tools just in case it breaks down, the standard Daihatsu kit and jack are normally up to the task of spare wheel change or roadside bodges to get you home, I just include a roll of duct tape, large jubilee clip and long cable ties in the standard kit.
9)On iced / snow cold days avoid starting the engine before defrosting the car, use a decent scraper on the glass before you start the engine to avoid extra wear on the engine and burning extra fuel when your not moving.
10)Keep it in 4x2 only use 4x4 when really required, during the two brief periods of snow this year I only had to use the 4x4 once to get up a snow covered hill with impacted ice underneath. Although twice month I do find a little farm lane and switch on the 4x4 to ensure everything is well lubed so it’ll actually work / engage when needed.
Maybe this will be of help to others who use sportraks to commute