Forum:
Hi All. Apologies in advance for the wall of text!
I have been looking through old posts to see if anything matches the issues I am having (with my girlfriends car) but nothing definitive so wondering if any of the experts here can shed some light??
The engine is: M100A GPGE EJ-VE, it has the 4 speed automatic transmission.
The car started cutting out regularly especially when rolling to a stop at lights etc. Then it suddenly degraded and I would describe it as though it is in some kind of limp mode with a huge flat spot (almost can't take off on any sort of incline) in the power when taking off but drives normally at speed. I am worried it may be much more serious than that and I will outline the troubleshooting that has been done so far.
When it first had the major issue I was overseas on business so it was taken to a mechanic who, for whatever reason thought it was the variable valve timing solenoid which he "cleaned out" then he decided it was the MAP sensor. I have since put the MAP sensor on a test bench at work and plotted the voltage output with vacuum, it gives a dead linear output from 3.6V at atmospheric down to just under 1.3V at -80 kPa(gauge). I believe this seems functional?
Once I got the car home to my garage I have done the following:
Jumped the test ports on the OBD connector and found the following codes: 31, 51, 73, 74, 75.
Compression test (throttle full open, EFI fuse removed, all spark plugs out) 90 PSI on each cylinder. This was of concern to me as the service manual I paid for (for the Cuore) lists the minimum as 1579 kPa (229 PSI). However I have not verified that the gauge does not just read low. Can anyone share a typical normal compression test for these engines?
Spark plugs appeared very worn so I replaced them with genuine NGK.
I have stripped down the throttle body, there was some oil and dust residue inside (esp around the idle control valve) but no more than I have seen on almost every other car I have worked on. I reassembled it and no improvement in running.
Battery voltage is good and when the car is running is up around 14.4V charging.
I hooked up a timing light and when the other test port on the OBD connector was jumped (as per the manual) I could see the mark stable in the centre of the indicator at the main pulley.
Can anyone suggest what the issue is likely to be or narrow it down for me? I am leaning toward the idle speed control (as I was when it first had the stalling issue).
Kind regards,
Nick
I would personally
I would personally investigate the 5 codes the ODBC reader has brought back to you. Does the engine CEL light stay lit on the dashboard? Also some owners of YRV cars on here have reported flat spots which were caused by the O2/Lambda sensors needing to be changed as they were failling. It has been noted that due to age of the Daihatsu engine that the O2/Lambda sensors need to be changed to get the best out of the engine.
Hope this helps?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Thanks for the reply! The O2
Thanks for the reply!
The O2 sensor is something I was considering also. This car has 2 sensors so I will try and test them both after work if I can work out what voltage they should be putting out. The first one at least is a 4 wire.
I forgot to mention that the idle quality has degraded since this running issue, significant surging most of the time although it does settle but seems high even when warm, I don't have a proper tachometer to check. This is what makes me suspect the idle control valve. I will try to test the O2 sensor although with the surging idle this may be hard. This isn't a common car here and hard to find a second hand throttle body or ISC valve to test and new is ~US$300 so I am reluctant to spend that kind of money until I have nailed the issue.
I am still keen to hear anyone's compression test results as if this points to serious issues (bent valves etc) I will re-think the whole situation. Strange that they would all be so low and even across cylinders. It doesn't seem to blow any smoke so I doubt rings are that worn.
The CEL is not always illuminated and after re-setting the codes they did not come back after a short drive, one was for the MAP sensor, may have been due to disconnecting while engine was running, second was to do with the AC so not concerning. The other 3 turned up as un-defined with an online diagnosis site http://codes.rennacs.com/FaultCodes.php?erasepagecount=1&erasepage0=plugins%2FDaihatsuEFI%2FDAI-ERASING-12.php&reference=DAIHATSU-12
Okay. When you mention codes
Okay. When you mention codes 73, 74 & 75. DO you mean you are getting codes P0073, P0074 & P0075?
As the 2 digit code means nothing to me without a prefix I'm afraid
Just having a look on this site:
http://www.obd-2-codes.com/lookup.py?function=search&keywords=73&make=TOYOTA
For example from the above link;
P0073 = Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0074 = Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0075 = Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)
As for the ISC and the cost you mention, where would you get this from? Locally? Have you considered sourcing and paying for one from Malaysia or Japan?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Thanks jpor. I have found
Thanks jpor. I have found this just now which has a more full list of codes: http://www.auto-detal.ru/remont/Terios_2006/9237(9737,9232)/EF.pdf
The codes I was refering to are 2 digit codes which you can interpret from the number of flashes of the CEL when jumping two of the connections. You can see from this document they are:
31 Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit malfunction
51 Switch signal circuit malfunction
73 VVT system malfunction
74 OCV circuit malfunction
75 VVT sensor circuit range/performance problem
This is quite a lot of codes but could be due to the mechanic pulling various connectors when he was evaluating. I will check again tonight to see if the codes come back.
This document also has a wiring diagram which looks more like the ECU on this car with 4 plugs, the 98 Cuore manual only had one 3 plugs and made no sense so I should be able to do some more diagnosis tonight.
Just looked this up on the EJ-DE and EJ-VE section of a manual
Compression pressure;
1579 - 1755 kPa at 400 rpm
(16.1 - 17.9 kg/cm2)
1363 - 1538 kPa at 400 rpm
(13.9 - 15.7 kg/cm2)
Compression ratio;
10.0 ± 0.3
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Thanks I re-did the
Thanks I re-did the compression test and got 600 kPa again... Adding oil to the cylinder I got maybe another 30 kPa so I don't think the rings are the main culprit and all cylinders are the same and I don't think valves could be bent so evenly.
I also removed all sensors including the O2 sensors (except the MAP which kills the engine dead) one at a time and could not get the surging to disappear. After resetting codes and going for a drive no codes come back.
I am wondering if the VVT mechanism or oil control valve failing has put the timing off without upsetting any of the cam/crank angle sensors. This could explain the rough idle and low compression to an extent or even if the timing belt has jumped a tooth. Will investigate this next.
Update
I have found the issue that was affecting this engine. There had been a mechanical failure in the camshaft to VVT actuator coupling, the large nut that holds the coupling in place was finger loose when I got it all apart, meant to be tightened to 125 Nm on assembly! This had allowed some play in the small pin/dowel that locates it on the cam shaft which over time lead to it tearing itself loose. The intake cam had been stuck in a very retarded position, killing compression and idle ability. I have done a leakdown test and there is very little leaking past the rings and essentially none past the valves so we are good there.
You can see the shiny area on the cam shaft where the pin was wedged in. The pin is sitting inside the gear/actuator next to the damaged keyway.
I am planning to order a new camshaft and gear (along with some new bolts and waterpump and timing belt) for this tomorrow direct from Japan as the stealership here want to charge more than the car is worth for the parts...
An update to this. I received
An update to this. I received all the parts form www.amayama.com direct from Japan for a fraction of the cost the local dealer was quoting.
Just finished reassembling the engine over the weekend and it runs perfectly again. The VVT gear/actuator assembly came with a notice that the torque setting for the retainer nut (49mm diameter) has been increased from the 125 Nm quoted in the manual to 147 Nm. It stated that if this was not followed then this could lead to a stalling issue which I feel plays down the severity of the situation if left unattended!
Replaced the cam belt and water pump and tensioner while I was at it and should have a happy car again touch wood.