2.8 Fourtrak on motorways

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I have had my 87 f70 for a while now . I'm a very experienced mechanic but this Is starting to get to me now. Iv done loads of work on my f70. The things looking good now . I don't want to totally mod it even tho its got the cons such as front and bk tow bars and winches . They never ever get used anyway , more for show really r when there really needed. The problem iv got is when I'm travelling on m roads only theses probably being excessive speeds around 60 and 70. . It overheats I can pass at 56mph all day long as iv travelled hundreds of miles before but as soon as I overtake as the speed goes up near enough the same as the tempeture goes up so I let it off to a steady 56 again and it sorts it self out.
My experience that's a coolant circlation lack problem . The radiator is to hot to touch but the header tank is warm to put you finger in.
Would I be thinking that the blow of radiator cap isn't working or the themastat isn't functioning as it should or fucxed. Or there's a blockage .
Or the radiator isn't efficient enough.

Iv asked this to get an experienced fourtraker owner or mechanic to at least give me some idea.
I can strip this engine all day .
But I'd rather do the job first time everytime.

ReedyNumber1

if I had to guess, because of

if I had to guess, because of where the rad is I'd say A: your winch is infront of it blocking airflow, B: your thermostat needs changing, C: your fan is not spinning correctly at hotter speeds, D: new water pump, these engines doo get warm, mine used to get silly hot until I changed all the above, hope this helps Wink

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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Thank you for your opinion

Thank you for your opinion cheers fella. Ill get onto it. The winch is infront of the rad I did suspect that. Iv just recently taken my thermostat out and it's nice and clean at the bottom but black as a cat on the top were the rad pipe is fitted. Much more investigating to do . The fan does spin with the revs but it looks out of aligned and not spinning in balance . Would this cause it too stall and want to conk out even on the motorway. Stumped me.

ReedyNumber1 . Fourtrak 1987.

if the fan is not alighned

if the fan is not alighned then your water pump is probably affected as the same pulley drives that, unless of course you just havnt fitted the fan on square. Wink

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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Thermostat was black when it

Thermostat was black when it was pulled out managed to scratch of the crap and it says 82c. The state it was in it looked like the original part that was built with the car.
Rad cap from what I can make out says 80 I think on one side. Genuine part as it has the D logo on the otherside.
The car was bought from a very old man who was retired and had it for years.
Iv relised that he was not very mechanical minded as iv had to literally repair mostly everything .
Other than that the chassis is mint with no weld signs or holes.
Lucky one I guess.
The fan looks like it has been removed at some point as there is wear on the nuts .
Iv drained the water and it looked very black and stuck a hose pipe in the rad and engine block to wash it out. Iv put everything bk together now without the thermostat in .
Run it around the block a couple times checked water very muggy and dirty still like lime scale liquid.

ReedyNumber1 . Fourtrak 1987.

Viscous fan, check the spring

Viscous fan, check the spring is in good condition and the valve is rotating, if it doesn't rotate properly and fully it doesn't let enough oil through to drive it at the appropriate speed.
Usually the spring is corroded and being a clock spring means it unwinds.

Viscous coupling lost its oil, not uncommon on most vehicles and you can strip them and refill them and you only need around 80 ML of silicone oil which is readily available from evil bay cheaply.

To do this you need to remove the viscous coupling, remove the fan, then split it in two carefully, refill with oil, refit the two halves back together, and rebuild.

Clean your cooling system, with vehicles of this age it is very common for them to have been neglected, usually by filling with any available water, this builds up internal corrosion which forms silt in the bottom of the block and this rises up the cylinder liners, hindering thermal transfer, good industrial cooling system cleaner. Do this twice if it is really bad.

Check the thermostat as some types have the wrong temperature, these are winter stats and some were marketed in the UK and fitted by many, and cause this problem. Basically they are slow to open so the engine gets hotter quicker, but don't open as much as a European market stat, thus impede flow.

Check the water pump impellor, these can corrode if the cooling system has been neglected and the lower surface area means less water is pumped round for a given engine RPM.

Check the radiator cap as several were supplied by the trade, this was a common issue with them, some were the wrong pressure and some had a defective seal on the radiator cap which prevented it sealing correctly, basically the seal was too wide and caught and sealed on the radius of the radiator filler, thus lowering the working pressure.

Fan

Right I'm on the verge of flushing today. And have noticed the fan is so loose it spins with the flick of my finger . Iv tryed this before last week turning it with my finger and it had resistance to it. And won't turn a whole all the way round. Now it's free as it can be like its spinning on a pivot . Is this broken or has it fixed it self.

That was the next job.

I can take strip this engine all day. But I'd rather do the job first time everytime .

ReedyNumber1 . Fourtrak 1987.

Right: where to begin? forget

Right: where to begin? forget flushing with water as that moves very little, if the cooling system is in such a state you need to do it properly, and it takes a little time.

Set the heater to the hot position in the cab, don't forget this or the heater matrix will not be cleaned, and it can air lock when you refill the system.

Get the engine hot and drain by removing the bottom radiator hose, be careful not to burn yourself doing this, the pressure will remove any loose crud.
Refill with clean water only, run until hot again and drain by removing the radiator bottom hose, repeat this until the cooling water comes out clean.

Go to your local hardware shop and get a 500g bottle of Vanish oxi action, drain the system again and put this in, top up with water and run until it is warm and stop and leave it for a couple of hours, run up to temperature again and leave overnight. This is an excellent cooling system cleaner and will loosen most cooling system crud, run up to temperature and drain, you will see a lot of crud coming out so run a hosepipe through any cooling system hose you can remove to flush the system of the Vanish, fill with water and run, drain, refill, run, and drain.

Get a good industrial cooling system cleaner, Serck Marston do an excellent one, but FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THIS TO THE LETTER as this shifts anything, leave it in too long and it will eat through gaskets and even the engine block, drain and flush several times with neat water to remove every trace of the cleaner.

Fill the system with 5 litres of anti-freeze, top up with water and job done.
To improve your cooling system, if you have a Brita filter jug or similar, filter a quantity of water, boil in the kettle and put in a bottle in the fridge to cool, use this instead of tap water as filtering and boiling removes all the impurities.

As you said to put the vanish

As you said to put the vanish in . Am I right in thinking this is the same stuff that supposed to go in the washing machine or for materials such as stains on clothes.
And as you said leave it in all night and on another paragraph your sayin not to leave it in too long as it could result in eating everything up does this long period only refer to the vanish. If so I understand.
I appreciate all posts and suggestions.

Assassin bro you know ya shit. Respect.

ReedyNumber1 . Fourtrak 1987.

put the vanish oxy in - that

put the vanish oxy in - that wont hurt to be left, its the cleaner that must not be left in for a long time (just read the label Wink )

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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Cheers lads. I'm on it.

Cheers lads. I'm on it. Just finishing the diff pan at the min as it had a pin hole in . Good as new now.

I fully understand lads and appreciate every advice you have gaven me. I will do this to the T .

Will let you know how I get on.

I can strip this engine all day but I'd rather do the job first time everytime .

ReedyNumber1 . Fourtrak 1987.

You can repair them cheaply,

You can repair them cheaply, have done many on numerous vehicles, all you need is the silicone oil which is available cheaply from E-bay.

Remove the viscous coupling from the engine, remove the fan assembly to leave you with the housing, clean the housing until its spotless, then check the coil spring (clock spring) on the rear, and the valve it turns. Normally the valve seizes closed or partially open, if its seized its out with the penetrating oil and soak it, if the spring is rotten then its the scrappies.

If these are fine then its the oil which has drained, this is normal for a vehicle of this age, you split the housing by removing the bolts, screws, or grinding off the rivets carefully, depending on type. Be careful as these are very tight, and keep it spotlessly clean.

Empty any residual oil out and refill with approximately 85ml of silicone oil, refit the housing together and bolt or screw it shut, if it was riveted then use appropriate sixed nuts and bolts to replace the rivets.

Reassemble the fan assembly onto the coupling and fit onto vehicle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fastrax-Pure-Silicone-Oil-25wt-90ml-Bottle-/370662248708?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item564d311104