Forum:
I notice my heater gives no heat unless the temp dial is turned nearly all the way to hot (only starts getting hot at about 3/4 way round)
I have changed the coolant already for some 50/50 red stuff
Should I change the thermostat next? If so, what thermostat kit is recommended?
Should I also look at water pump?
Engine is K3-VE
Sirion Heater
Yellowmitch,
My experience with Sirion heaters is typical to yours.
I had a 1.3 Sirion and it had a less than awesome heater. It took ages to warm up and when up to temperature it was OK but not roasting hot. On a freezing day it was just adequate. For a quick trip to the shops in winter it was a cold and nasty experience. I now have a 1.5 Sirion and it is just the same.
Oddly my wife's car, which is a Materia and has the same guts as the 1.5 Sirion, has a cracking heater. It heats up real quick and has a gob-full of heat when up to full temperature. The usual knob dial is 12 0’clock or less.
I have changed the thermostat on the Sirion when I did a fluid change and it made no difference. It just seems to be the way it is. The heater dial at the 3 o’clock position is my usual position for winter unless it is freezing and then it is all the way and hope for the best.
I have given this heater thing some thought and I have no explanation after years of owning a Sirion. And both Sirion and Materia thermostats are rated the same. Go figure.
As for replacing the water pump, it would not make any difference. I would only replace a water pump if it was making odd noises.
Regards
The only issues with these
The only issues with these newer cars is that they no longer come with a temperature gauge as standard. Have this on my new Subaru Impreza Diesel, where you just get a light telling you the engine is running cold and then goes off when at temp.
Luckily my YRV turbo has one, but I also use a Scangauge-II which gives me a true water reading via the ECU using the ODB-II port. Would be worth getting one as they are a good piece of kit, and also will give you a good indication on what your car is doing. Ideally the water temp when at its max should be reading around 86 and 92 degrees c. This way you will know if your cooling system is working properly. On the note of getting a car upto temperature quicker, then this could be what else the water system is cooling. Again as an example of the YRV turbo I own, the radiator and coolant is not just cooling the engine (K3-VET), but also has to cool the auto box and the turbo, thus the water temps get up to a high temperature quicker. On a side note there aren't any air locks in the system by chance? Could be worth trying to burp the system with the radiator cap left off with the engine running and the heater on hot and the fan switched on full.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Sirion Cooling System
Kingswaydring,
I did not flush the system with a chemical. Where the thermostat sits was like new with bright metal showing. I did jam a hose pipe into one of the bulkhead pipes and gave the heater matrix a flush and no muck whatsoever came out - it is the cleanest system I have had on any car.
The problem just seems to be with the later model Sirion - I have had two. The system is fine and the engine is reaching a proper temperature. The little green temperature dash light actually goes out quite quickly, which leads me to think this car has a small heater matrix and subsequently just does not give out excess heat. Also if the motor was not reaching proper temperature other symptoms would show and I have none of those.
I am sure I have no air bubble either because air bleeding is a very simple process. On my current Sirion there are no bleed points involved and you just run it and burp it when hot. Measuring the quantity of coolant going in is also a good indication if there is an air pocket.
On a winter drive there is enough heat but the system takes longer than any car I have had to get up and going, and once up it is adequate but with no massive excess heat to give out. It is a very minor observation and not a real problem.